Help me with dead algae dust please!!!

Jun 3, 2016
142
Enfield, CT
Been dealing with dust/debris at the bottom of my pool for a few years now. Last spring had a new liner put in and a week later bam there it is again. The dust/debris collects in the crevices at the bottom of the pool. When I vacuum it, it poofs into a cloud then eventually settles again after I think I got it all cleaned out. I have a cartridge filter so I cannot "vacuum to waste" or backwash. I have tried flock(which only made a huge mess in my pool) and also clarifier. I've taken the cartridge out and hosed it off. Tried using a skimmer sock and even put a little DE powder in the skimmer sock. This is a never ending battle. It's like shoveling while it's still snowing. The other day i put 3 jugs of pool shock in so my chlorine is very high right now. Can anyone take a guess as to what I am dealing with here? I don't know how to get rid of it. I vacuum twice a day every day and it just keeps coming back within a few hours. I will attach a pic. it is all over the bottom of my 24' round above ground pool.



 
Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

You have algae. You are keeping the chlorine level high enough to keep killing most of it, but there is always more growing unseen. it gets killed and you end up with what you have, trash accumulating in the bottom of the pool.

You need to kill all of it and be able to test that it is gone.

We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.

I also have the SpeedStir and Sample Sizer. They speed testing and accuracy.

So, with an accurate test kit you can prove something is growing by conducting what we call an Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT). Only two things consume chlorine, UV and organics (like algae). If we take an accurate chlorine reading after dark and another one in the mornign before the sun is on the pool we can prove that organics is consuming chlorine.

The way we kill the algare one and for all is what we call a SLAM.

While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework reading assignment. Start with ABCs of Water Chemistry
 
Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

You have algae. You are keeping the chlorine level high enough to keep killing most of it, but there is always more growing unseen. it gets killed and you end up with what you have, trash accumulating in the bottom of the pool.

You need to kill all of it and be able to test that it is gone.

We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.

I also have the SpeedStir and Sample Sizer. They speed testing and accuracy.

So, with an accurate test kit you can prove something is growing by conducting what we call an Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT). Only two things consume chlorine, UV and organics (like algae). If we take an accurate chlorine reading after dark and another one in the mornign before the sun is on the pool we can prove that organics is consuming chlorine.

The way we kill the algare one and for all is what we call a SLAM.

While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework reading assignment. Start with ABCs of Water Chemistry

I just brought a water sample to my local pool company. They said my chemistry was perfect. My pool is crystal clear. I just can't seem to get rid of the debris at the bottom. They told me to remove the cartridge, and open the drain plug. This will allow me to vacuum the stuff out of the pool on to the ground. Also said my chlorine was high and I put 3 jugs of liquid pool shock in on Tuesday so my level is still staying high.
 
TFP is based on home based testing, which is more accurate, more convenient and less expensive than being sold products you don't need at the pool store. You're likely getting algae because your FC is not a proper level for your current CYA (stablizer) level. Understanding the relationship between CYA and FC is the cornerstone of maintaining a sanitized, algae-free pool. The pool store does not recognize this scientifically proven relationship and therefore cannot provide you with sound advice for how to deal with this algae or properly maintain your pool.

This is why we encourage pool owners to read through our methods through our articles, get a proper test kit so we can give advice based on those results and the questions you ask.
 
The problem is that I am not very bright when it comes to that kind of stuff. It's way too advanced for me LOL I did buy a home test kit where you add drops of this and that etc but I could never figure it all out. Let me ask you this? Is using the slow poke chlorine tabs and adding 2 jugs of household bleach every two weeks enough? My pool has 13,500 gallons.
 
Hi and welcome

You picture looks like algae and not algae dust. Using tabs may very well be causing high CYA in your pool meaning you're not chlorinating enough. As others said we practice pool care based on accurate testing and only adding what is needed to our pools.

You won't be well served to try to mix our advice with the pool stores advice as that will likely just leave your head spinning and still have pool problems. If you read some of the articles in pool school and decide you want to cut the cord with the pool store advice there will be plenty of great folks around here to help you.



And you were bright enough to find this forum so surely you'd be able to take over your pool and probably be able to school the store.
 
The problem is that I am not very bright when it comes to that kind of stuff. It's way too advanced for me LOL I did buy a home test kit where you add drops of this and that etc but I could never figure it all out. Let me ask you this? Is using the slow poke chlorine tabs and adding 2 jugs of household bleach every two weeks enough? My pool has 13,500 gallons.

It can be intimidating getting the "big chemistry kit" but the members here are great at answering questions and really, once you get the hang of testing, it's fairly simple. Having the Speed Stir accessory makes it easier and even kind of fun!

Blindly adding products, especially those that add stablizer over time like tablets, will not work out over the long term in a reliable way. Frequent testing and dosing with bleach or a salt water chlorine generator is the best long term solution.
 
I will reiterate the necessity of doing your own testing, if for the only reason of simplicity. If you can follow (very well written) directions, and count to 40 without your fingers or toes (just kidding ;D), you can test your own pool water. Drop the $100+ on the kit including the speed stirrer ( I love mine, wouldn't recommend a kit sold without it), and write your pool store a goodbye/so long note. It will pay for itself many times over in time savings from (many) unnecessary trips to the pool store and overuse of chemicals.
 

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