Advice regarding pool pump/filtration system

[trisha65]

First time pool owner. Someone mentioned that I should convert my pump/filtration system to salt water and/or sand filter due to how hard it is for me to keep the chemicals adjusted. Help me, I'm so confused. My pump/filtration unit is all together and is connected to the side of pool. Is this advice in reference to replacing the whole unit or adding something to the existing system. Furthermore, do these alternative systems affect pool chemical maintenance? Are they more cost efficient? Can it even be done with this unit being connected to the side of the pool. I live in Oklahoma so the weather is unpredictable and I wonder is this why I can't keep the water adjusted.

I filled the pool, took water to pool supply store, these are the results: FAC 0. TAC 0, CH 60, CYA 0, TA 60, pH 7.0/base demand 2, Copper 0, Iron 0 and Phosphates 1000.

Treatment advised: Day 1: 4oz Soda Ash/1lb Chlorite/1Lb2oz Leslie's Conditioner & 17fl oz Phosfree (in skimmer}
Day 2: 8lbs4oz Hardness Plus. Weekly: 1lb Chlorite & 1 cap Phosfree. Chlorine tabs in floater at all times.

I bought a Total Poolcare DPD Test Kit and have tested several times with mixed results. Latest: FAC 5, TAC 5, resulting in CC of 0, CH 40. CYA 70. TA 60, pH 7.8, Copper, Iron & phosphates I can't test for.

I know this is a lot of information and to sum up: 1)Would upgrading to a different filter/pump system make it easier to keep the chemicals adjusted2)Can I upgrade considering the set-up of pool and 3)Does the advice I received from the pool store sound correct?

Last note: I've been in this pool one time in three weeks because I don't know if it's safe. That being said from day 1 my water looks blue and clear and has during all of this treatment.

 

[Texas Splash]

Hello Trish and welcome to TFP! Let me try to clarify a few things for you:
- The suggestion you heard to help keep chemicals adjusted was probably related to the SWG (Salt Water Generator). This is a device that's only purpose is to convert salt into FC (free Chlorine) for your water to keep it sanitized. It keeps you from having to add bleach manually each day. That's all the SWG does.
- Converting from a cartridge to a sand filter is a popular choice for many who believe that a sand filter can go longer periods before requiring a cleaning. Even then, cleaning is usually turning a valve once or twice to complete an internal backwash and rinse of the sand. Each type of filer (sand, cartridge, DE) have their pros & cons.

An SWG has an up-front cost which by most models shows that over the life of the SWG (about 5 years) comes-out close to the same cost of adding bleach each day. SO it's mostly a convenience factor of not having to manually add bleach each day.

For water testing ... if you're going to spend ANY money right now, PLEASE, I urge you to get the TF-100 w/ Speed Stir option. That test kit is easy to use and will save you money paying for itself. Everything you do for your pool starts with accurate water testing. Pool stores are horrible for testing and test strips are junk. You don't need those pool store gadgets or chemicals. All the stuff they sold you is for the most part wasted money, and if you have any unopened products (algaecides, Pho-Free, etc) I would try to get a refund. Your pool just needs simple items as listed below in my signature (Recommended Chemicals).

So an SWG will only keep you from adding bleach, all other chemicals still need to be tested and adjusted as necessary. A pool is like a pet and it needs a little love each day.

Please review the vital links below in my sig and let us know if you have any more questions.

 

[pinguy]

HI!

A couple things here.

The pool store's advice/testing is not accurate. Solid forms of chlorine add as much CYA or CH to your water as they do Chlorine. This will lead to inevitable problems down the road. We recommend either salt water generators or liquid chlorine only. Check out this page for more info: Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool

In order to take control of your pool, you need to test yourself. We recommend a K2006 Test Kit -or- TF100 Test Kit. Both are about the same price, but the TF100 comes with more reagents. Didn't see you already have a kit. See post below to get 1 more test that you need.

In the meantime, you need to get some stabilizer (CYA) and chlorine in your pool. Using Pool math to calculate amounts, you need to add about 1lb CYA to get to 35ppm. This is assuming you haven't added any CYA or di-chlor/pucks. Adding 3 cups daily of liquid chlorine (bleach) daily should keep your FC high enough until you get your kit. I also recommend this article for a general overview of what test results mean: Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

I'll let someone else chime in on the SWG questions.

 

[RobbieH]

It sounds like you bought the K-2005. You only need this one piece to be able to measure FC at higher levels.
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