Ready, set, go to the store...

[duraleigh]

FC-5
CC-1
TC-6
CH-175
TA-90
Br-10
pH-6.8
CYA-20

Still some more work to do. Bromine is not part of your pool makeup. Your pH is too low. You do not list the most important part of your testing....Free Chlorine. I can deduce it but you should be posting it and observing it.

Please read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. You need a better grip on what you are testing and why. The learning curve is quite steep and you will be a master in no time.

 

[scott.lopez]

I had never heard of the BBB method before looking at this site. After reading pretty much everything I could find I found out that the recommendation of the folks on this site was spot on.

The BBB method is Bleach, Borax, Baking Soda and Muratic Acid. Muratic Acid is by far the nastiest substance, it's sold at lowes individually or in a four pack. Bleach can be found at wal-mart in 10% grade. Baking soda can also be found at wal-mart in 12 lb. bags. For the Borax and Baking soda, I recommend getting a measuring cup and determining the weight of a cup, that makes the math a bit easier than my bad guessing. I ordered the Borax through Amazon.

Muratic acid can be added directly to the pool in front of a return fitting, by moving as you pour it in or by mixing the acid using a bucket of water (if you are lowering pH). I haven't figured out yet which is the best approach. To lower Alkalinity, I understood that you pour the muratic acid in a column. I haven't had to do this yet. Since I have a new pool I am constantly lowering the pH, I'm hoping that comes to an end before to long.

After I saw the CYA creep on my own pool, I switched over to pure bleach. As others have recommended, I'd use the pucks for when I go on vacation or if the CYA of our pool gets down to around 30.

I became more convinced that shopping at the local pool store was bad for two reasons.

Went to the local pool store and the guy in front of me spent over $175 on a powder shock for his pool. Not only was that expensive but he was also adding additional chemicals to his pool in the form of the powder (could have been calcium which is hard to lower). If he had followed the BBB method he could have just used bleach and saved a lot of money with less long term impact on his pool.

Second, my neighbor had a CYA of 176 and they gave him one of those algae products at $50 per pack. He used five. When he went back to the store after using the first two, they told him it had dropped his CYA to 120 so he bought three more. I ran the test using the LaMotte Water Spin after all five had been applied and the CYA was over 176. He's draining his pool now and switching over to the BBB method.

The only thing I'll get from the pool store now is their water bottles for collecting samples, they work great.

 

[bcarty501]

Still some more work to do. Bromine is not part of your pool makeup. Your pH is too low. You do not list the most important part of your testing....Free Chlorine. I can deduce it but you should be posting it and observing it.

Please read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. You need a better grip on what you are testing and why. The learning curve is quite steep and you will be a master in no time.

Free chlorine is 5 and listed first.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kcindc]

1. Before you do anything else, have you increased your PH to 7.2? 6.8 the is lowest threshold of the test, so your PH can be much lower than the 6.8. This can be damaging to your pool and equipment.

2. Have you pass the SLAM? The 3 criteria are:
a. Pool is crystal clear - Can see the screws in your main drain?
b. Your CC is 0.5 or less - You failed this one, so it means you need to continue to SLAM.
c. Performed an OCLT? Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)

According to the criteria, you need to continue the SLAM, get the PH up to 7.2 first, then continue your SLAM with the target FC level of 10 until you pass ALL 3 criteria.

Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

 

[scott.lopez]

put your numbers into the pool calculator.

http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

The chemicals that you put into the pool can effect other measurements. Raising alkalinity can effect pH, increasing acidity lowers alkalinity. The pool calculator takes these different measurements into consideration when suggesting how much of the different chemicals you should add.

You have everything you need to enter the numbers, the only thing you are missing is the number of gallons in your pool. You want to be fairly accurate with the volume of your pool. This value is required by the calculator.

kcindc responded faster then I did with excellent advice. Once you get the pool balanced using SLAM then the calculator will be of better use to you.