Pentair IC40 Continuous Red PWR Light

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sjsherratt

sjsherratt

Bronze Supporter
May 15, 2009
21
Morgan Hill, CA
My IC40 is about a year old and is now displaying a continuous Red PWR light. When I first power the unit on, the PWR light is green, but after the two minutes of cycling through the salt reading LEDs, the PWR light switches to red (when the salt level LEDs stabilize). I performed another acid wash at Pentair's recommendation (did it 3 wks ago) and everything inside looks clean and no obstructions, but still have the red PWR LED. The only other abnormality is that the green salt level LED is flashing (>4200) ... another long story, but we are struggling with the varying and inaccurate salt level readings others on troublefreepool.com are experiencing. I called Pentair back and I was told not to worry about the red PWR led and that it only means that that the water temperature and salt level are mismatched (?). But, I am concerned by the statement in the manual that speaks to the Red Pwr LED condition "The IECG is OFF and an error is occurring in the IECG. Service is needed".

Life is green, Cell is green, Flow is green, Sanitizer Output is at 20%. PH is 7.6.

By the way, the High Salt readings just started and I haven't added salt for a few weeks. Not sure how the IC40 measures salinity.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
My salt light sometimes says it's low, when i know it's not. There is a way to calibrate it, which i have done, but it's still not very consistent or accurate.

Get some salt test strps and ignore the light.
 
Thanks ... it's not the salt level light that is the concern right now but rather the PWR light that is Red. How is the unit interpreting this, and is it taking action based on some issue it thinks it has?

(I guess salt level indicator could be a problem if the computer inside thinks it is wrong and shuts chlorine generation off).
 
Your intellichlor may well not be producing any chlorine.

Do you have a test kit and salt test strips? It would be helpful if you could post a full set of numbers. Someone here might see something that would help.

Most people here have the TF-100 test kit or the Taylor K-2006 test kits and the AquaChek Salt Test Strips. You will get the most reliable results from these.
 
The most prudent thing to do is insist on warranty service since your unit is only one year old.

If Leslie's is right, the salt level is just a bit low but not enough to really worry about at this point. It is in the range that the intellichlor should think that the level is good. Your water temperature is certainly in the appropriate range too.

Many here have re-calibrated their unit and we can supply a link to instructions if you want to give it a try. It may cure your problem if you tell the SWG that the salt level is lower. But, again, since you have already been talking to Pentair I would suggest that you let them have a chance first. You don't want to do anything to jeopardize your warranty.

Other comments about your test results assuming Leslie's is correct:
FC is too low. I don't know how big your pool is but my IC-40 is at 10% 12 hours per day and I have about 5-PPM FC now.
TA is too high. Your PH may rise quickly.
CYA is too low. Pentair wants it to be about 75-ppm.

Have a look at the pool school about water balance for SWG pools. You can get a better idea of the proper levels.

Last comment: Invest in a good test kit and Salt test strips and you will have made a major step toward a truly trouble free pool.
 
Thanks for the great tips and advice. Yes, I'm frustrated with the TA ... it started at 30 this season and even by starting with 1/2 what was recommended, it got too high too fast.

Thanks for the tips on the warranty, I need to have someone come out and look at it. I do have the instructions for the re-calibration saved, but like you said, at this point I would rather not mess with things that might invalidate my warranty.
 

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I also have an IC40 with a continuous Red PWR light. It is not generating chlorine. My understanding, after talking with Pentair, is that the unit will continue to measure salt levels but some other measurement (voltage or current) is out of tolerance and will not allow the cell to turn on. After following Pentair's recommendations for a cleaning, even though there was no scale buildup, they are sending a new unit out for replacement. All they needed was the receipt and Serial Number. Should be in today. They are also taking care of shipping for the bad unit.

Jay
 
Thanks "grumpy". I called the company who installed the Pentair equipment for us and the service person indicated that the red PWR LED is likely the result of the salt level being too high. If I can lower the salt level, it might go back to normal green. (Replacing some water might be a way to lower my TA as well, but will lose some CYA too.). He wants me to monitor pH more closely and try to keep it in the 7.4-7.6 range. I read somewhere that the IC40 likes to stabilize the pool pH at 7.8. I am supposed to call him in a week and let him know how it goes.

To raise the TA, I had added some of Leslie's Alkalinity up. I don't recall off hand what the recommanded amount was, but I used less.

BTW - the pool is "pebble sheen" (a smaller pebble than Pebble Tec). I was told that this finish will contribute to acid demand.

Ras - thanks for the tip. Mine does seem to be generating chlorine, but keeping a close eye on it. Thanks for sharing your story.

-Scott
 
I asked about your TA because I suspect that the test result from Leslie's may be in error. I don't think that TA increases on its own, only when you add a chemical to increase it or add water from a source that has high TA. If you have only put in half of the recommended amount of alkalinity up and your fill water is not to blame then that just leaves the test to question.

With the thought that there may be testing errors let's consider your salt. I would be very sure of the true salt level before draining water. Salt levels that are too low can cause just as many problems with your SWG as levels that are too high. Did you tell the representative that the IC-40 and the pool store test disagreed with each other?

It may be good to get another opinion on the test numbers. Is there any other place that you can have the tests done?
 
Thanks for the tips.

Yes, I told the Pentair rep that there was disagreement, but didn't get anything definitive on the cause of the red PWR light.

Yes, there are other pool stores somewhere, probably 25 mi. away. I should invest in the test kit that does a good job with these measurements as was recommended here.

-Scott
 
You've made the right decision in order to claim control of your pool. Just remember that the test kit does not include the AquaChek salt test strips. They must be ordered separately. If you decide to order the TF-100 kit, they also carry the test strips. Shipping is fast, you will probably have it within two or three days. See the link: http://www.tftestkits.net/index.php
This kit is the best value. Larger bottles of chemicals and a better price.

While you are waiting on the test kit you should spend some time reading the articles in Pool School found in the link at the top of every page here. They opened my eyes to proper and trouble free pool care.

Please let us know how things work out with the IC-40.
 
I'd stay away from the Aqua chek strips. They gave me way high readings repeatedly. Maybe I was one of the unlucky ones that got a bad a batch even though they weren't expired. I certainly spent too much money for bad numbers. I invested in a Taylor salinity test kit since then and have very good confidence in the numbers. As for the red light, I'd stop wasting time and insist on a replacement unit, especially if the unit is not producing sodium hypochlorite. Pentair is dragging their feet on this one. I recently had a version 1.8 that was 22 months old replaced. The tech told me these units had very high failure rates of one kind or another (mine was the salinity sensor and add salt light). According to him, he's yet to service any 1.9 version IC units. He insisted on replacing my 1.8 version (which was under warranty). I will say that the brighter LED's are much more user friendly. You have two choices: spend money on sanitizer for your salt water pool or have Pentair replace your unit. Good luck.
 
Looks like mine is a V1.9, with a Mfg. date of Jan '08. In addition to the PWR LED being red, the cell light is now blinking and it is not producing anything. I have had the salt level tested twice in the last 10 days, consistently at 3900. Everything else is in balance. And I have acid-washed the cell plates, still not working. I have been on the phone with the company that installed the equipment and their service dept. was closed last week. Back on the phone tomorrow AM bright and early....
 
Glad to hear that your water is in balance. If you are still having problems, your IC-40 does need to be replaced.

Have you talked with Pentair directly or just the builder that installed your unit? Pentair is pretty easy to deal with, as a couple of others have said, they will ship a new one directly to you without too much fuss.

Their telephone number is 800-831-7133. Give them a call directly, tell them everything that you have tried to get your unit working and ask for a warranty replacement.

Let us know how it works out.
 
I have an IC-40 that consistently gives me an add salt yellow light. i have ~3200-3400 ppm salt in the pool tested by 2 pool stores and my own testing with the Aquacheck strips.

I've thought about recalibrating the unit, but will dont really want too mess with the factory settings. The intellitouch reading varys from 2650-2750 ppm, depending on the water temp. It makes chlorine like gangbusters, but the yellow light on all the time bugs me. I had it installed in september of last year. Anyone know what the warranty on one of these is?
 
Information that come with my intellchlor IC-40 says that the warranty is for three years.

Just so that you know, my unit changes from 2700 ppm to 2900 ppm for no discernible reason. It may change several times per day or stay constant for a week or more.

I quit worrying about it. After all, the light means to "check salt." I do and it's fine at 3600 ppm.
 

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