Emerald/Kelly Green pool- trying to clear help, now 1/2 draining

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N

NJpool4

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May 27, 2016
12
Basking Ridge, NJ
Hi, opened a week ago, was darker green now been bright green with no change
Facts: 25,000 gallon, in-ground concrete w/ Hayward s244T Hayward Sand Filter. Filter 4-5 years old, new motor- 1 yr old
Levels now: FAC 5.0, TAC 5.0, CH 180, CYA 80, TA 90, PH 7.8 copper & iron 0 total dissolve solids 500 phosphates 0

When I opened it was a darker green. All levels were good- ph was 7.2, etc so I shocked with bags of 6 bags powder shock, filter running 24/7. brushed and vacumed with aquabot.
after 2 days it was just the emerald green. So added 5lbs of Liquid chlorine with no change.
I've gone daily to Leslie's just to have the water tested and they keep telling me its great. I work with the manager and shes ever tried to upsell me, and ive had past success with going by their water reports. I did get cellulose fiber to add to the drain to help the sand filter work better but no avail.
I'm told by another blogger that my CYA at 8-is too high even though its in the acceptable Leslies range and I need to 1/2 drain the pool and refill to lower the CYA
We just rented a submersible pump and am now doing that!

What else can I try??
 
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: Well, your CYA is elevated for a non-SWG pool, but still manageable -maybe. It may actually be much higher. But we can't give you too much accurate info without your own test kit results from either a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. That is critical. The free pool store tests are simply unreliable, especially when it comes to CYA which is always supposed to be tested outside per Taylor instructions.

For now, I would wait. Don't do anything except order either a TF-100 (link below) or Taylor K-2006. Now I will say this ... you get MORE products in the TF-100 and it contains Taylor reagents as well. Because you will need to "SLAM" to remove algae (link below) I also recommend making it the XL Option for more reagents. Lastly, everyone loves the "Speed Stir" for easy mixing. Testing is the foundation for everything you will do, and the right test it will save you hundreds.

For now, simply add one gallon of regular plain bleach to your water each day until your kit arrives. Then post a full set of numbers for us and we can get very specific on what to do next. Nice to have you with us.
 
What else can I try??
Click to expand...
Troublefreepool.com....and you won't be "trying" it, you will be fixing your pool water issues. Read the forum. Thousands of folks follow what we do. It is solid science backed by thousands and thousands of anecdotal experiences.

Honestly, your first order of business after ordering the kit is patience. You need that test kit in your hands so you can see the things we are talking about and so you understand what you are doing and why.

Secondly, stay out of the pool store. Trying to blends their advice with ours leaves you stuck in the middle not knowing what to do....go one way or the other.

Next, read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. Read it and understand it thoroughly....it is our reference book.

Then be precise. Our philosophy and testing requires high precision for the results to really help you.

Stay on the forum. If something makes no sense, don't do it until you have a good explanation from someone here on the forum

Do you have a pic of that green pool? that would help in a diagnosis

Enjoy your pool....that's what they're for.
 
That's purty. Welcome to TFP

I opened a pool that looked about the same this year. Yep. Adding maybe a gallon of bleach per day is safe until you get your test kit. You'll be able to clear this up. Just remember, with that much green that you will have algae hiding in all sorts of places......like in the skimmer box behind a lip on the frame? Ask me how I know.

When you get your test kit proceed to SLAM. Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

The more often you can check that CL and bring it back up, the faster this will go.
 
Hi, Test kit arrived here's what I have:

FC=1.6 CC=.4 PH=7.6 TA=7.6 & CYA was debatable between 60-70 We did several times, each person had a difference of when they could no longer see the black dot

we had 1/2 drained pool & filled 4 days ago & have had filter running & continued brushing. I expected the CYA to drop from the pool store reading which had been 80, 80, to 70 tested 2 days apart over a period of 5 days.

I haven't done anything else at this point other then add 1 gallon of clorox at 8.25% sodium hypochlorite

Pool still green except now a darker shade so NOW WHAT? thanks!
 
It looks like maybe you posted your PH number for your TA? Ideally you want to lower your PH to about 7.2 before raising your chlorine level. Then forget about PH until you are done as the test is not accurate above CL of 10.

Plug your "now" numbers into pool math and target numbers along with your pool size and % chlorine you're using and it will tell you how many ounces to add to get to your target. Your target is your shock level Roy your CYA found here: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

You want to keep it at target until all three tests are passed, not a one time dose. Clear water, CC<.5 and passing an overnight CL loss test.
 

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That is a HUGE difference indeed. Your biggest responsibility now is to maintain the proper SLAM FC based on your CYA. Try to be consistent. If you have any questions about what you've read on the SLAM page (link below) please let us know. Have a good day.
 
My shock FC is 24. I am now at a 10.5 FC (target 7)
I have been brushing and after that initial 10 gallon dose last night, I see no more green, the water is a cloudy/ bright blue. based on this,(and what the pool calculator says) i am thinking not to add anymore 10%bleach tonight.
my PSI has only increased 2pts so I am not backwashing yet.
Would i be correct to not add anymore bleach tonight, just brush again and keep an eye on it? or should I add more in case?
 
If your SLAM (or shock, I just hate using that word) level is 24, you should maintain that level as best you can until your SLAM is over.
 
SLAM:

Shock
Level
And
Maintain

To defeat algae 100% you need to keep your CL at that shock level until you pass three tests

1. Clear water (not cloudy)
2. Pass overnight chlorine loss test
3. CC of less than .5

I know it's a pain to maintain it high along with work and real life but if you don't, you will be battling this all over again sooner than you think (ask me how I know).
 
Thank you.

tonight I am at this- FC=6.5, CC= between 0-.5 (couldn't quite tell), ph=7.4, ALK=60 CYA=55-60, temp 72 I can finally see the bottom of my deep end for the past 3 days, my water is still on the cloudy side.

Air temp has been in the high 80's for the past few days and sunny/cloudy, temp will drop to 70's over next few days, cooling down. Kids went swimming finally today.

Am I on the right track? after keeping it at shock level for a few days, I have not added any more chlorine (liquid 10%). FC has dropped as such- 10.5/1cc; 9.5/.5; 8.5/.5; 7.5/ (0-.5 not sure); 6.5/ (0-.5 not sure)
 
See post number 16. My post just above your last post.

SLAM is a maintenance process. You want to KEEP your FC at that "shock" level UNTIL you pass all three tests listed.

If you don't? The algae is coming back.
 

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