I just replaced our salt cell with a Hayward T-15. Installed last night. Cell is not working. Called Hayward and went through diagnostic menu and system volts are fine but amps are at 0.03, so the cell is not reading the board. I had cell tested at Leslie's and cell is fine. What can I do to repair board without replacing it and what do I look for? Reading other posts on error messages, etc. seems like I may be able to solder something. Any and all suggestions are welcome.
Low Amps-New Cell-How to repair board
- Thread starter momofthepool
- Start date
- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,028
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-40
welcome to TFP 
here is someone that did the fix..
Repairing My Aqua Rite PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) that was Damaged by Lightning Do It Yourself Home Workshop
here is someone that did the fix..
Repairing My Aqua Rite PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) that was Damaged by Lightning Do It Yourself Home Workshop
welcome to TFP
here is someone that did the fix..
Repairing My Aqua Rite PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) that was Damaged by Lightning Do It Yourself Home Workshop
Thank you for the link. I am learning so much. I will pull board off tomorrow and check for burn marks and connections. After reading many forums on other issues with Aqua Rite, I am finding that Aqua Logic is somewhat different set up. One of my questions is why is the reading showing acceptable voltage but only 0.03 amps. Which relay or part would give this type of reading and why? All other settings and displays are working-Just the chlorination system, not allowing the cell to read the board or vice versa, consequently giving reading of 0000ppm, and chlorinator turned off.
Just wanted to post an update on our AquaLogic Hayward t-cell 15 issue. I pulled the board off today and saw a burned solder point. My son and I resoldered the spot, plugged everything in, and now my system is showing amps as well as volts. The reading actually detected salt at the level of 2400 right off the bat. I went through the diagnostic menu and checked volts and amps. All good. Then turned on chlorinator to check instant salt level. It read 3000 so I saved it. So far, it is all working. It has been running with no light coming on for about 30 minutes. Regular readings are showing 3000 all on its own.
Thank you to those of you who posted possible fixes. I read many that suggested a current limiter part as the culprit. This seems very common in the Aqua Rite system. However, I have AquaLogic, which, after investigating all the innards of our system, does not have this part. Just thought I'd pass that along for all AquaLogic owners.
I am new to this forum, but plan to stay connected to offer any findings I run across.
Here's to a trouble free summer with your pool! Cheers!
Thank you to those of you who posted possible fixes. I read many that suggested a current limiter part as the culprit. This seems very common in the Aqua Rite system. However, I have AquaLogic, which, after investigating all the innards of our system, does not have this part. Just thought I'd pass that along for all AquaLogic owners.
I am new to this forum, but plan to stay connected to offer any findings I run across.
Here's to a trouble free summer with your pool! Cheers!