Need some help ASAP - a 9 year old's birthday party depends on it!

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dstedman

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May 26, 2016
33
Saint Paul, MN
Hi - we bought a house with a 25000 gallon, vinyl lined pool with a sand filter last fall. Being brand new to pools, we had a "recommended" pool company come out to open the pool for us 2 weeks ago. They did 20 minutes worth of stuff then told us to add 7.5 lbs of Trichlor ever other day and keep adding it until the chlorine test turned orange. We added around 30 lbs and it still never turned orange. Brought the water in and the numbers looked like this:

FC .2 ppm, TC .4 ppm, CC .2 ppm, pH 6.9, Hardness 83 ppm, Alkalinity 64, Cyanuric Acid (CYA) 108 ppm


They said keep adding more Trichlor, so I added the 15 lbs we had left and still no orange. After reading up here a bit, I decided to take a different route since my understanding is that the CYA at 108 is way too high and it was inhibiting the Chlorine's ability along with dropping the pH. So I went to Walmart and picked up 20 gallons of 8.25% bleach and dumped 4 gallons into the pool to start. I got a deep yellow in the test so got my water checked again:

FC .3 ppm, TC 1.0 ppm, CC .7 ppm, pH 6.5 (!), Hardness 83 ppm, Alkalinity 64, CYA 113 ppm


I told them what I had added, including the bleach, and the "expert" there told me not to add the household bleach since it wasn't a good enough quality (a lie, right?). I strayed from his advice when I got home and added 10 more gallons of bleach since I figure my CYA is already way too high (the "expert" told me he doesn't worry about the CYA levels until they get above 200) and I didn't want to add anymore CYA via Trichlor. Viola! The chlorine test turned orange!


So now I'm not sure how to proceed. We have a blue-ish pool that isn't clear yet and a really low pH. The pool store's recommendation is to add 56 lbs of GLB Alkalinity Up, 38 lbs of GLB Calcium Hardness Up and 2.5 lbs of GLB Oxy-Brite. This seems like a lot of stuff.

I feel like I'd be better served buying a large tarp for $100, using it to swap out half the water to get the CYA down to 50 or below (vinyl liner - have to be careful, right?), and then I wouldn't have to go crazy with all of the buffers recommended above. I know Saint Paul has pretty soft water, so that's good I'm guessing.


Thrown into the mix is the fact that we are having a birthday party for our 9 year old on June 11th, so we have to have it going by then or there will be lots of broken hearts. :-(


What would you all recommend?


Thanks so much!


Dan
 
Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

My first suggestion is to stop going to the pool store. Their only response it to sell you something or give bad advice (they have done bot to you by the way).

I will tell you, it didn't get like this overnight and it will take time to clear. June 11 may be pushing it but may be possible. We can teach you how to get it sparkling and keep it that was for a lot less money than the pool store.

Not much credence is given to pool store testing around here. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing. But, what can you do?? We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option today. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework reading assignment. Start with ABCs of Water Chemistry and Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis

You have a big pool, so with the pump running I want you to add 1 bottle (121oz, 8.25%) concentrated bleach in the morning and at night until the test kit comes in.

The tarp method really isn't necessary as it doesn't work that well. For now a 50% drain/refill will get your CYA in the 70-80 range which is survivable.

Replacing water through evaporation doesn't reduce CYA. When water evaporated, it leaves the CYA behind in the pool water.

If you don't order the test kit today, June 11th by our methods is probably not in the cards.
 
Welcome, Dan! :wave:

June 11 is do-able since you're highly motivated. You need your own test kit. You've already read enough here to know it's indispensable. Not sure what kit you own already. If it's a Taylor K-2005, you can add just the FAS-DPD test sold separately here. Order two. If all you have is the pH/TC colorblock, order up a TF100 and spring for the XL option. You'll need the extra reagents because you'll be SLAMming. Stop reading right now and go order a proper test kit. Time's a-wastin'.

You don't need to mess around with the tarp method of water exchange unless you live in a swampy area. You'll be leaving a foot of water in the shallow end anyway so the liner doesn't shift or wrinkle.
 
The advice above is on the money Richard and Tim are two of the best and have given you a CLEAR path to get your pool clean.

!. STAY out of the Pool Store.....that not idle advice.....it's quite important.

2. Get a test kit on order.......nothing good can happen until you report testing that we know can trust......that's not idle advice, either.

3. Add the bleach daily as Tim has suggested.

4. The instant your kit get's to you, post up a set of test results. That'll start the ball rolling to a crystal clear party....we'll all help.
 
dstedman said:
Thanks guys! I've already got a Taylor K-2006 on it's way (before I learned about the TF-100) - will that be good enough? Also, should I drain to a 1 ft depth in the shallow end and refill now?
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The K-2006 uses the same reagents, you just may run out because there is not enough of the FAS/DPD testing reagents. That is what the XL option of the TF-100 is for.

If you are comfortable draining and refilling, yes get that behind you. I would say a 50% drain would be about right. That may leave you in the 50 - 60 CYA range, but that is acceptable.

Even after a drain/refill you want to add bleach every day until you get your test kit.
 
dstedman said:
Do the reagents go bad? If I order a TF-100 and 2 XL kits I get free shipping. :)
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Yes, they do expire but if kept cool and out of sunlight they last a few years.

You don't need another full test kit, skip the TF-100. At least one XL and Jason's idea of some CYA reagent is a good one. You could also get a small bottle of the CYA standard 50 solution so you can see what 50 CYA looks like in the test tube. That is the hardest test for folks to master.

If you are looking to add some items for free shipping look at the SpeedStir and Sample Sizer. I have both and they speed testing and accuracy.
 

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Psshhheww! I thought you were going to want a party this weekend! We're sayin there's a chance!

Welcome to TFP!

With your motivation and actions you should have no issues getting it done.
 
dstedman said:
I'm going to send back the 2006 kit - I just ordered the TF-100, XL, SpeedStir and Sample Sizer. I figure it'll be worth it with all the money I'm going to save on chemicals & trips to the pool store. :)

Draining the pool now.
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:whoot: :goodjob:

Now, find your chlorine source WalMart? Dollar General?

You are going to need 15 - 20 121oz 8.25% bottles to start with. The cashiers don't even blink when I push my cart up now.
 
Dan - I was in your spot 4 years ago but you have taken a faster track to managing you pool so nicely done. So much helpful advice here!

I plan for a mid May opening and a late September closing to follow the "open early, close late" method. That gives me time to dial in the numbers over the course of May.
 
Is it ok to run my pump on filter mode with just the bottom drain and one output opened? Should I open both outputs?
79c20e808cb8cd8ee2d14a42b2555ec1.jpg



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tim5055 said:
:whoot: :goodjob:

Now, find your chlorine source WalMart? Dollar General?

You are going to need 15 - 20 121oz 8.25% bottles to start with. The cashiers don't even blink when I push my cart up now.
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Stedman, I'm in the NW twin Cities suburbs. Check Menards. Just bought a few gallons of 12.5% "Splash" brand chlorine there for $3.99 each. You can get by with fewer bottles of the higher concentration.

Also, get familiar with Pool math, it's going to be your best friend for a while!
 
Fleet Farm and Aldi are the best places to buy bleach in MN. Fleet Farm usually has 1 gallon of 12.5% for $2.50. Also, while waiting for you test kit you could work on increasing pH. Get a few boxes of borax from the grocery store or target.


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