I have an RC-52 cell reading 1.9A. I keep reading about comparing the 1.9 A against the Power Rating. My question is where do I find this number? I don't see it listed on the cell??
pete
pete
Where is "power rating" for a SWG cell listed?
- Thread starter Pklambooy
- Start date
- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,028
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-40
I do believe you are talking about the connected power, is it using 110v or 220v?
Watts/Volts/Amps/Ohms conversion calculator
if your SWG is at 110V and using that 1.9amps you are pulling 209 watts but if you are at 220v you are pulling 418 watts
Is this what you were asking?
Watts/Volts/Amps/Ohms conversion calculator
if your SWG is at 110V and using that 1.9amps you are pulling 209 watts but if you are at 220v you are pulling 418 watts
Is this what you were asking?
Is the system working?
I believe AutoPilot has 3 settings for the power level and you need to set it in the menu if you are having problems.
I believe AutoPilot has 3 settings for the power level and you need to set it in the menu if you are having problems.
As ping mentioned there are three power settings on your Pool Pilot.
Power Level 1 = 5.0 Amps
Power Level 2 = 6.5 Amps
Power Level 3 = 8.0 Amps
In any scenario you have very low amps. However amps only tell us part of the picture. We'll also need to know your voltage.
Power Level 1 = 5.0 Amps
Power Level 2 = 6.5 Amps
Power Level 3 = 8.0 Amps
In any scenario you have very low amps. However amps only tell us part of the picture. We'll also need to know your voltage.
Re: Where is "power rating" for a SWG cell listed?
I assumed it was 110 but looking at it hooked up it's 220, and the 1.5 Amps is checked. I run power level 2 but used 3 a bit. Was reading recently 28 V and 2.4 Amps on level 3 and 100% Purifier setting. I'm descaling now; Post treatment 27 V 2.5 A.
cell only about a year old....temp and salt sensors seem fine.
Added CYA and Clarifier, will let things alone a few days before tackling "low amps" error message.....
salt is 3920 a bit high, pH 7.3, Ca at 400 ppm, CYA at < 20 ppm
I assumed it was 110 but looking at it hooked up it's 220, and the 1.5 Amps is checked. I run power level 2 but used 3 a bit. Was reading recently 28 V and 2.4 Amps on level 3 and 100% Purifier setting. I'm descaling now; Post treatment 27 V 2.5 A.
cell only about a year old....temp and salt sensors seem fine.
Added CYA and Clarifier, will let things alone a few days before tackling "low amps" error message.....
salt is 3920 a bit high, pH 7.3, Ca at 400 ppm, CYA at < 20 ppm
Even though no error messages right now another thread gave me ideas to check to determine if I have some type of a cell issue:
1. Double check to see exactly what voltage I have to unit.
2. Run test pilot program in boost mode.
3. Add salt to skimmer to see if I get a change in response for V and A. I better understand now that driving to lower volts gets my Amps higher but seems I'm far from about 6.5 at setting 2.......
4. I now think when the manual speaks about checking Power rating they aren't referring to rating of cell but to settings of the DIG200.
i have plenty of salt in pool, about 3900 ppm and I never see above 3 amps. I'm on Setting 2. I cleaned cell and blades do not look worn. I assume my cable is OK.
1. Double check to see exactly what voltage I have to unit.
2. Run test pilot program in boost mode.
3. Add salt to skimmer to see if I get a change in response for V and A. I better understand now that driving to lower volts gets my Amps higher but seems I'm far from about 6.5 at setting 2.......
4. I now think when the manual speaks about checking Power rating they aren't referring to rating of cell but to settings of the DIG200.
i have plenty of salt in pool, about 3900 ppm and I never see above 3 amps. I'm on Setting 2. I cleaned cell and blades do not look worn. I assume my cable is OK.
Final update today...
1. I confirmed 220 volts.
2. I took off the main board and looked it over. Blew off dust and checked the 3 volt battery that does what I don't know. Sure I cleaned and checked it..
3. I pulled the three terminal plug an tried to see if I could get some readings. Initially I got about 50 volts and then "oddly" it just drifted down to about 1 volt.....tried checking amperage but don't think I was doing properly.
4. I cleaned the posts with some sand paper and then reconnected.
5. Now reading 10 V and 6.5 A in test mode, power level 2.
conclusion is good? What if any of it was key I don't know, but I'll take it..I'm betting on #4.
spoke too soon, 28 V 2.4 amps....got to be bad cell??
1. I confirmed 220 volts.
2. I took off the main board and looked it over. Blew off dust and checked the 3 volt battery that does what I don't know. Sure I cleaned and checked it..
3. I pulled the three terminal plug an tried to see if I could get some readings. Initially I got about 50 volts and then "oddly" it just drifted down to about 1 volt.....tried checking amperage but don't think I was doing properly.
4. I cleaned the posts with some sand paper and then reconnected.
5. Now reading 10 V and 6.5 A in test mode, power level 2.
conclusion is good? What if any of it was key I don't know, but I'll take it..I'm betting on #4.
spoke too soon, 28 V 2.4 amps....got to be bad cell??
I'll reply in this original thread about your other question about testing the cable, as it is best to keep all the post relating to the same subject in the same thread. See if you can delete your cable question thread or have a mod move it here.
I don't know of any test other than installing a new cable for the cable itself.
Have you inspected the capacitors on the power module? Look for any type of bulging on the capacitors or any burnt surfaces near them.
Run the test program a few times in a row to see what numbers you get. Each time you do it, the cell should switch polarity and that will detect if one side of the cell is bad.
I don't know of any test other than installing a new cable for the cable itself.
Have you inspected the capacitors on the power module? Look for any type of bulging on the capacitors or any burnt surfaces near them.
Run the test program a few times in a row to see what numbers you get. Each time you do it, the cell should switch polarity and that will detect if one side of the cell is bad.
I saw nothing amiss in board. I took off the trisensor and it looked fine. I reinstalled and am in reverse mode for awhile..it reads 0 volts and 6.5 amps...and I get a "check flow purifier off" error. Screen is clean as all filters...I wonder now if I damaged the flow sensor wire connection in the hub....which might drive the voltage to zero...? just gets funner and funner.
I had broken internal wiring in trisensor. At least that helps explain some of this
New trisensor wiring is good. I had my pool company come out to diagnose the continuing issue. Naively I thought they would be checking various voltages, amperage, ohms, you know, electrical stuff. What I got was cleaning my pump basket filter, cleaning the cell, and running test mode......high volts low amps...need new cell. Really, that's the in depth diagnosis? Not that I disagree with the conclusion but I wanted more "testing" since I ran all the same tests and still had questions. Oh well. I'll be chatting with the company owner. Anyway, I just bought a new cell for about $370 with a rebate. We'll see.....my own approach to diagnosis is to swap out stuff and test.
New cell..setting 1 yields 5 DC amps. Case solved. I suspect the former cell body had a crack/leak since I had noticed a damp cell terminal....maybe I could seal leak or I'll dissect cell to study it. And, am not being charged for visit by pool company. Got cell from http://saltpoolguys.com/
very happy with speed of order.
very happy with speed of order.
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