Newbie to the pool game. Recommendations.

[decimate5262]

Hi everyone.

I just got my tf-100 test kit and got these results

Fc 9.5
Cc .5
Ch 1500
Ta 150
Cya 80
Ph 7.5

https://i.imgur.com/7DAcufD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HQqaq8L.jpg
Is the current look.

I see that the CH is pretty high (live in Southern California and we do have hard water) do I need to do anything about that or focus on other things?

 

[Richard320]

Welcome!

Finally, someone who has got me beat. I feel like such a slacker at 1000.

Yes, you do need to deal with the high CH. If you plug your numbers into poolmath, you'll see that the CSI is above .6. What that means is that you're going to start growing Calcium scale, if you haven't already. If you're unsure what that is, it starts out as grey or tan rough blotches and will eventually end up as grow-your-own sandpaper that will cause roadrash on any elbows, knees, shoulders, or ankles that scrape against it.

One warning, though: your CH test may not be accurate. My CH dropped from 700 to 500 just by using a speedstir when I tested. The CH test takes a long time and a lot of swirling when the numbers get up there, and it's human nature to just add more drops rather than wait for the reaction.

But even if you're only at 1000, it's too high. You have to be obsessive with managing pH and TA to keep the CSI in the neutral zone.

There are really only two solutions. 1) Drain and replace some water 2) Spend some big ducats and have reverse osmosis done. Replacement is still cheaper, unless your particular water company is levying huge penalties.

I periodically use pool water on the lawn and then replenish with what I didn't use for irrigation. It's a slow process and a real PITA, but it beats a massive water bill and menacing letters from the water company. In my case, 3" is 5% of my pool volume. So you can see how even a small partial change could have immediate effects. If you replaced 5%, your CH would go down by 75 ppm. That's three fewer drops of R-0012. You'll notice that when you test.

One final pointer: the TF100 uses Taylor reagents. So you can buy more R-0012 at the local pool store when you run out. That one is usually stocked.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Very nice looking pool! I would however also recommend adding your pool type and equipment to your signature. It will help us later when we evaluate your situation(s). Great to have you with us.

 

[decimate5262]

Welcome!

Finally, someone who has got me beat. I feel like such a slacker at 1000.

Yes, you do need to deal with the high CH. If you plug your numbers into poolmath, you'll see that the CSI is above .6. What that means is that you're going to start growing Calcium scale, if you haven't already. If you're unsure what that is, it starts out as grey or tan rough blotches and will eventually end up as grow-your-own sandpaper that will cause roadrash on any elbows, knees, shoulders, or ankles that scrape against it.

One warning, though: your CH test may not be accurate. My CH dropped from 700 to 500 just by using a speedstir when I tested. The CH test takes a long time and a lot of swirling when the numbers get up there, and it's human nature to just add more drops rather than wait for the reaction.

But even if you're only at 1000, it's too high. You have to be obsessive with managing pH and TA to keep the CSI in the neutral zone.

There are really only two solutions. 1) Drain and replace some water 2) Spend some big ducats and have reverse osmosis done. Replacement is still cheaper, unless your particular water company is levying huge penalties.

I periodically use pool water on the lawn and then replenish with what I didn't use for irrigation. It's a slow process and a real PITA, but it beats a massive water bill and menacing letters from the water company. In my case, 3" is 5% of my pool volume. So you can see how even a small partial change could have immediate effects. If you replaced 5%, your CH would go down by 75 ppm. That's three fewer drops of R-0012. You'll notice that when you test.

One final pointer: the TF100 uses Taylor reagents. So you can buy more R-0012 at the local pool store when you run out. That one is usually stocked.

i actually do have a speedstir. How long should I wait in between drops? I do have some graying on the tiles though.

 

[Richard320]

i actually do have a speedstir. How long should I wait in between drops? I do have some graying on the tiles though.

Since I know roughly where I'm going to be, I add a whole bunch of drops at once and let it run a cycle. If you tested using the speedstir, your reading is probably pretty darn close to what you are.

 

[decimate5262]

Since I know roughly where I'm going to be, I add a whole bunch of drops at once and let it run a cycle. If you tested using the speedstir, your reading is probably pretty darn close to what you are.

when tests go clear and then turn back to pink after a minute or for example after I stop the speed stir what does that mean?

 

[Richard320]

when tests go clear and then turn back to pink after a minute or for example after I stop the speed stir what does that mean?

Do you mean the FC/CC test or the CH test? On the chlorine test, ignore it if goes pink again after more than say, 15 seconds.

If you're taling CH, you might be such a pale blue it looks clear. Try using 5 drops of R-0011 next time.

 

[decimate5262]

Do you mean the FC/CC test or the CH test? On the chlorine test, ignore it if goes pink again after more than say, 15 seconds.

If you're taling CH, you might be such a pale blue it looks clear. Try using 5 drops of R-0011 next time.

Gotcha. Honestly, I can't remember what it happened on. I will be doing another test tomorrow so I will be able to double check all of my findings.

When the tests just begin to change color/go clear is that when you have your result or do you continue until the color doesn't change anymore? The test kit instructions weren't very clear on that part so I went until the color didn't change anymore after adding.

 

[Richard320]

You did the test right, then. When the last drop makes no difference, you stop and deduct it.

 

[decimate5262]

You did the test right, then. When the last drop makes no difference, you stop and deduct it.

Awesome thanks!

Also, what is a reliable way to measure the capacity of my pool. As you can see, I have a semi-odd shape from the pics in my first post.

 

[needsajet]

Re: pool volume, you can log your chemical additions, and see if you're consistently under-shooting or over-shooting what the result should be, as shown in PoolMath, and then compensate.

Or you can use averages, e.g. by measuring width in, say, 7 equally spaced places and using the average. Same for length and depth - if it's warm enough PoolMath has a calculator at the bottom, and if you use the averaging method, select rectangular pool.

There's a chemical way: A Chemical Way of Calculating Pool Volume, but you need to have enough TA reagents on hand.

 

[decimate5262]

New readings as of today.

Fc 7.5
Cc 0
Ch - 1250
Ta 110
Cya 80

i added some water to try and get the ch down. Seems to have helped.