moved in last august, drained and repainted pool. fresh fill started with tri-chlor tabs to get cya in range...after 3tabs and about 3 days i had 3fc 3tc ph of 7.2 and cya less than 30. tested today (day 5) and had ph 7.4(added about 12 oz by vol of soda ash) and no chlorine. tabs were disolved in chlorine adder. i added 4 tabs to it to continue the path i am on... at what point should i switch to liquid bleach to keep cya in range and how often does it need to be added as a rule of thumb, i know it depends on test results but i have no idea what to expect(daily, weekly). Also CH is 70ppm and ALK is 60ppm, how critical are these?
new to me pool complete fresh fill
- Thread starter mcb457
- Start date
Hey there, Welcome!
Calcium is very important to a concrete pool. If you don't provide it in the water, it will be leached out of your walls and that's no bueno!
Total Alk plays nice with your pH. If your pH is stable (and 7.4 is fine) you just need to dabble in the Pool Math program to monitor your CSI.
If this is all gibberish to you, its time to get reading in Pool School! Take a look at the very top right of this site and you'll see the link.
Start out with ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Yippee
oops- just noticed your test kit. You're missing the *most* important element-the FAS-DPD test. It reads FC up to 50ppm. Muy Importanto. You can obtain just that test from : TFTestkits.net I think it runs like $26ish, but it will take your test kit up to the same as the one we recommend from Taylor
Calcium is very important to a concrete pool. If you don't provide it in the water, it will be leached out of your walls and that's no bueno!
Total Alk plays nice with your pH. If your pH is stable (and 7.4 is fine) you just need to dabble in the Pool Math program to monitor your CSI.
If this is all gibberish to you, its time to get reading in Pool School! Take a look at the very top right of this site and you'll see the link.
Start out with ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Yippee
oops- just noticed your test kit. You're missing the *most* important element-the FAS-DPD test. It reads FC up to 50ppm. Muy Importanto. You can obtain just that test from : TFTestkits.net I think it runs like $26ish, but it will take your test kit up to the same as the one we recommend from Taylor
ok thanks i will order that and address the calcium. i have read pool school and have played with the calculator, it is quite convenient. just not sure about how often to expect to add chlorine
Switch to liquid at any time. You can add stabilizer separately to raise your CYA. I've never used pucks so can't advise how long it will take them to dissolve, and you'll need to add your chlorine source whenever your testing tells you its low. Most folks doing liquid add it almost daily.
ok thanks just wanted to know what to expect. one more quick question, i have an automatic chlorinator and i assume it is only for pucks, is that correct? do you add liquid to skimmer or in pool by returns?
Trichlor pucks only. Mixing Cal-hypo in the same container as trichlor can cause an explosion. Really. Once they're dissolved in the pool, they'll play nicely together, but as powders they hate each other and you don't want to introduce even some residual to each other.
You just dribble the bleach in front of a return. How to add each chemical is explained in Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
You probably want your CYA at 40 to start, maybe 50 if the pool is full sun all day. CH needs to be at least 250 ppm pretty quick. See chemical link from Richard for that also.
Only during a SLAM.
Pool School - Determine Pump Run Time
I get by with 3 hours a day, and may try less. But my yard is small and barren and surrounded by cinderblock walls so there isn't a lot of stuff blown in.