I really don't know if this is the proper forum for me, but please read.. I have an AG 24' round with a 1 hp motor. I currently use Pristine blue, but it is failing. I have alot of algae and it is really bothering me, I am doin everything according to directions. The first year I used it, worked great, last year, had some problems, this year even worse... I would like to get some feedback about the pro's and con's of the BBB system verses pristine blue, and how to do a conversion from one to the other... The only test kit I was instructed to get was the one for the Blue.. So Idk any readings... Please help if you can?????
New, please read!!
- Thread starter hairchick40v
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!
To switch to BBB you need to get your copper level down far enough that you won't get staining, or start using fairly large amounts of sequestrant. Depending on where your copper level is right now, getting it down low enough to avoid stains without sequestrant might mean a substantial amount of water replacement.
To switch to BBB you need to get your copper level down far enough that you won't get staining, or start using fairly large amounts of sequestrant. Depending on where your copper level is right now, getting it down low enough to avoid stains without sequestrant might mean a substantial amount of water replacement.
Read this for some info on Pristine Blue that the manufacturer doesn't tell you
alternative-sanitizers-and-chemical-free-pools-the-truth-t3025.html
Here is what the Australian government has to say about copper and silver based 'sanitizers (they are talking about ionizers and mineral systems but it really does not matter if the metals are added by pouring them in (Pristine Blue or common pool algaecide!) in an erosion feeder (Nature2 and Poolfrog) or introduced by electrolysis of a copper electrode (ionizer unit), the end effect is exactly the same):
http://www.apvma.gov.au/media/mr0401.shtml
I just wish our own EPA was as diligent!
Reallize that while Pristine Blue does have an EPA registration number it is registered as a pesticde, not a sanitizer by the EPA. It contains copper sulfate which is a widely used algaecide in pools. The only EPA approved sanitizers for pools and spas are chlorine, bromine, and biguanide.
alternative-sanitizers-and-chemical-free-pools-the-truth-t3025.html
Here is what the Australian government has to say about copper and silver based 'sanitizers (they are talking about ionizers and mineral systems but it really does not matter if the metals are added by pouring them in (Pristine Blue or common pool algaecide!) in an erosion feeder (Nature2 and Poolfrog) or introduced by electrolysis of a copper electrode (ionizer unit), the end effect is exactly the same):
http://www.apvma.gov.au/media/mr0401.shtml
I just wish our own EPA was as diligent!
Reallize that while Pristine Blue does have an EPA registration number it is registered as a pesticde, not a sanitizer by the EPA. It contains copper sulfate which is a widely used algaecide in pools. The only EPA approved sanitizers for pools and spas are chlorine, bromine, and biguanide.
Hairchick, welcome to the forum! I know you are overwhelmed right now. But TRUST ME, you can get thru this, we will help you. 
I was YOU just 2 years ago. I had an "alternative" sanitizer in my pool, and I too learned the hardway. I am so thankful for this website, so I'm here now repaying the favor.
Read everything in Pool School, then read it again. It WILL begin to make sense. Then order one of the test kits we recommend, and at the very least, or while you wait for the good kit, pick up an inexpensive 6-way HTH test kit from Wal-mart. It is good practice and will be more accurate for testing your pool than strips or the pool store, and it will help you get a handle on things that much quicker.
Follow the advice Jason gave, we need to know how much copper is in your pool right now. You'll need to go to the pool store and have them test your water, specifically the copper levels.
Do you "close" or "winterize" your pool, are you just now opening it and/or have you made recent additions of the PristineBlue chems?
No worries, we're here to help.
I was YOU just 2 years ago. I had an "alternative" sanitizer in my pool, and I too learned the hardway. I am so thankful for this website, so I'm here now repaying the favor.
Read everything in Pool School, then read it again. It WILL begin to make sense. Then order one of the test kits we recommend, and at the very least, or while you wait for the good kit, pick up an inexpensive 6-way HTH test kit from Wal-mart. It is good practice and will be more accurate for testing your pool than strips or the pool store, and it will help you get a handle on things that much quicker.
Follow the advice Jason gave, we need to know how much copper is in your pool right now. You'll need to go to the pool store and have them test your water, specifically the copper levels.
Do you "close" or "winterize" your pool, are you just now opening it and/or have you made recent additions of the PristineBlue chems?
No worries, we're here to help.
OK, so I took a sample into a local pool store, not the one I bought my pool from... Told him I wanted to change from pristine blue to chlorine, he says no prob... Until, he checks my water, I have 302ppm copper in my water... And my ph is way off(the PB folks never said anything about ph) I thought it was staying in check because I was sooooooo faithful with the chem. So, he suggested that I drain and refill my pool... Not all the way but most!! And I already need new sand, I have only had the pool 2 years!!!! UUUUGGGGHHHHH!!!!!!! 
Are you sure it's not 3.02 ppm? anything over1 ppm is considered way too high (1 ppm is the upper limit usually set for ionizers!) and 302 ppm would be almost toxic! At that level your pool would be more of a copper plating bath than a pool and I would think the water would have some blue color to it. Most copper test kits for pools do not read over 3 ppm (4 ppm with colorimeters) so I suspect either you forgot the decimal point or the pool store did not know what they were doing!
I have a 24' round, 48 high, 14,000 gallon, AG pool.. I was using Pristine Blue... I have decided to switch to chlorine... The local pool store advised me to drain my pool, then refill... I have done that...
I am ready to start adding my Chem... I did a water sample and it showed no chlorine, and my ph is low, under 6.8..
So, where do I start??? The pool store sold me 2 bags of shock and told me to bring them another water sample to get the chem. I need...
I don't want to get into the chem. trap again... Please help!!!
I am ready to start adding my Chem... I did a water sample and it showed no chlorine, and my ph is low, under 6.8..
So, where do I start??? The pool store sold me 2 bags of shock and told me to bring them another water sample to get the chem. I need...
I don't want to get into the chem. trap again... Please help!!!
hairchick40v said:
The advice before your drain and refill still stands, you need to read Pool School as these questions can be answered by reading the articles there.
We need a full set of test results to tell you how to balance your water. Just giving us 0 chlorine and a ph result is not enough. We also need to know your CC, TA, CH...
You need to order online one of the recommended test kits, and as soon as possible. Then you are not relying on the Pool Store or persuaded to buy their chems.
You need to increase your PH up to 7.4-7.6 - use Borax or Arm & Hammer Washing Soda (both available in the laundry aisle). Use the Pool Calculator to figure out how much to add. Pick up some Clorox while you are there, this is what you need to chlorinate your pool. From the Pool Store or the pool department in "big box stores" you need CYA or Stabilizer/conditioner. This will help protect your FC from sunlight.
So please read Pool School, and you will start to get a handle on this situation. You don't need to spend a lot of money at the pool store, but sometimes you have to go there to buy things you can't find elsewhere.
Hope this helps. Again, sorry for the confusion regarding the new post.
Post a full set of water test results and we can walk you through the whole process.
The first thing to do is to add 2 ppm of chlorine each evening. That will work for a couple of days till you have some CYA in the water.
The first thing to do is to add 2 ppm of chlorine each evening. That will work for a couple of days till you have some CYA in the water.