Glad you replied and asked. Let's get you fixed-up right away. Here you go:
- The Pentair Rainbow 320 is an in-line chlorinator ((tablets/pucks). Those are okay for "short-term" use (example away on vacation), but not for normal every-day use. What the pool store (PS) doesn't tell you is that they add stabilizer to your water which increases your CYA to such a high level they later come back and say ... "drain your pool". We've all learned to use regular liquid bleach as our primary sanitizer. Hit your local HEB (Bravo) or Wal-Mart (Great Value) for their "regular generic bleach. No scents, no splashless stuff, just the Bravo or Great Value. It's one of the purest forms of chlorine.
- Testing .... you MUST have either a Taylor K-2006 or TF-100. I have the TF-100 and highly recommend it ... with the "Speed Stir" to mix like a pro. The PS will give you poor advice and inaccurate testing that doesn't work and keeps you coming back for more to pay their electric bill. Don't do it. Testing your water is NOT difficult, and you'll be very happy you are in control.
- We use acid to lower two things - pH and TA. To know if they are too high would require a good test kit. Until you get one of those kits, you can pick-up a small HTH-brand pool test kit at Wal-Mart that tests pH and TA. Those are fairly reliable for those two tests.
Bleach is safe for your pool and you because we ensure the FC (free chlorine) and stabilizer (CYA) match-up together as noted on the Chlorine/CYA hart (below). They go together to keep the water safe and sanitized. That's what the "good" test kits are for. So I would really encourage you to get one. In my sig below you'll see other links to recommended chemicals and a calculator. Those are all you need for daily management. Oh .... and the Pool School page link below.
Take some time to read those. They help a lot. Once you know the basics, it sticks and this won't seem so overwhelming. It's not like school chemistry, it's quite easy once you have the right kit. We'll help you.
