I did the CYA test and the tester was filled but I could still see the dot. I'm in Michigan and it's been cold since the pool was filled so the test makes sense from what I've read. Does this mean there's no CYA in the pool?
CYA Test
- Thread starter natedogg
- Start date
If the water was perfectly clear in the tube then that likely means you have zero cya. If you could just barely still see the. Then you might have cya approaching 20 part per million or so
Is that bad? It's just reached the the 60s during the day for the first time (lol) and it is still 61 but cloudy. I also had no color on a chlorine test, which I assume is bad. Can I just add liquid chlorine to up that? I have a SWG, but I am not sure if it is operating correctly as it had a no flow error for a while and then started again. The water is clear, but I know that is not an indication of the water being where you need it to be. I think need to add chlorine to the pool, is that correct?
You should get some cya dissolving in a sock in front of the return jet up to at least 30 parts per million and definitely add some bleach to get the FC up. The water is likely too cold for the swg to work correctly yet anyways.
Sometimes its useful to allow the pool sample water to warm to room temp inside, then after mixing the sample per instructions take it outside to fill the tube with. Best with the sun at your back while holding the tube at waist high level.
Yes, need to add 30 ppm CYA and chlorinate based on the Chlorine CYA Chart. Keep it at target all the time.
And start reading here, Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
And start reading here, Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Thanks for the great tips! I think I will start with the CYA and bleach and go from there. Is there an amount of bleach to add to a 19K gal pool, or is it just add until a reading occurs?
Also, could algae be growing in this cold of weather? I assume there could be cold weather algae due to MI weather, but that's a guess based on dealing with MI weather.
Also, could algae be growing in this cold of weather? I assume there could be cold weather algae due to MI weather, but that's a guess based on dealing with MI weather.
Assume your CYA is there and aim for the correct FC. Undershoot that CYA addition as a zero reading doesn't necessarily mean you have zero CYA as the test only goes as low as 30. You may have 20 in there...
- - - Updated - - -
Do you know how to use PoolMath?
- - - Updated - - -
Do you know how to use PoolMath?
No, i've been reading and looked at it but math and science were not my strong suits lol. Is the correct FC based on pool size? Thanks to everyone for the help this is my first time owning a pool.
Thanks for talking this out with me. I read the pool math article and see how it works now!
No, your desired FC level is based on how much CYA you have going on in the pool. The more CYA you have requires you to keep a higher FC level. Have you seen the CYA/Chlorine chart in Pool School?
[FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
I am just starting also. Got my tf100 yesterday.
Go to Pool Math calculator, punch in the gallons and your readings along with goals and then hit calculate at the top.
Go to Pool Math calculator, punch in the gallons and your readings along with goals and then hit calculate at the top.
Dod you figure it out, Nate? Be sure that you put your type of pool as a troublefreepool towards the bottom of the page.
I believe I did figure out my steps for upping the CYA and SLAMing the pool. My pH test was yellow though, so I assume there is very low pH and I need to add soda ash from what I'm reading before I being the SLAM. Is that correct?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,759
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Correct. Soda ash or Borax to raise pH. Yellow (low) is no good. For the SLAM, you want it around 7.2 (orange).
Did you ever test your TA? If it is on the higher side, use borax instead of soda. If it's low, you can use the soda.
I tesed TA and 1 drop turned the sample red so I assume it's low at 10 ppm and need to add soda to up it. I am in the process of getting a pool vacuum and assume I should vacuum first before attempting to alter the levels. This is really helpful and I appreciate all the knowledge!
Does pH have to be stabilized over a long period to start the SLAM, or do you start once you get the pH reading of 50? My understanding is get pH right, then raise CYA and then bleach.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,759
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I think you have some things mixed up. 
pH should be about 7.2 for the SLAM. Your CYA (stabilizer) will vary based on how much was added (i.e. 30, 40, 50, etc), then you increase FC based on that CYA level. An ideal example would be a CYA of 30, FC at 12, and pH at 7.2 during a SLAM. Make sense?
pH should be about 7.2 for the SLAM. Your CYA (stabilizer) will vary based on how much was added (i.e. 30, 40, 50, etc), then you increase FC based on that CYA level. An ideal example would be a CYA of 30, FC at 12, and pH at 7.2 during a SLAM. Make sense?
