Intex 16x32 pavers breaking

JnJ

0
May 16, 2016
15
Naples, FL
My 1st post on this forum!!

I've been lurking and reading stuff on here for weeks, sorted out a plan and executed it.... I got the 52" deep pool filled to about 48" and started hearing popping noises, which turned out to be 4 of my concrete pavers that snapped directly under the legs :(

Here's my setup:

We brought in a dump truck load of the lime based dirt used for paver driveways. Built a frame on the ground to contain the dirt using landscape timbers. We removed 98% of the grass within the area (98% because there was still inevitably some left over).

Before filling the "Pad" with the dirt, I layed down plastic sheet to prevent grass from growing from anything missed and/or left behind.

We then spread out and leveled the dirt, and compacted it with a 300lb lawn/sod roller and a bit of water. Checked level, filled in where needed, and compacted the whole thing again. When dry, this dirt pad is almost as hard as concrete, and takes a pick-axe to break up if you need to.

After that week long process, we laid out the liner to locate where the legs would land, and then recessed concrete pavers to be level and for flush with the surface. We didn't use foam below the liner, but did use a large canvas tarp (old commercial awning) to protect against any sharp objects hidden in the dirt, then covered that with 2 plastic tarps. All of this extends over the pavers.

I paid careful attention to compacting the dirt under the pavers, and made sure there were no voids under themas well.

After all that, I started filling the pool. When I was at about 90% water level, I started pouring in the salt, and other chemicals recommended by the pool store based on my well water fill.

Got it to right about 48-49" water depth and turned off the well to give that pump a rest. Within 5 minutes of stopping the well pump, the pavers started to break. So far 4 of them near opposite corners.

Pavers are 16" square, 1.5" thick, plain concrete patio pavers.

So where did I go wrong? And is there a way to replace those 4 without draining the pool down? That's alot of water to drain, and a good chunk of money in chemicals to just dump out the drain.
 
I have to say that is exactly the same way I did mine, I had a laser level and within 3/4 inch level over the whole area...

Guess what, mine have done the same exact thing... I think the 110,000 pounds are just too much for the 1 to 1.5 inch concrete pavers.... I have 1 that broke completely through, i was able to jack up enough to get another block under it but it is still not correct...

with as much weight is in these these huge pools I think the only way we can do it over is to drain and redo the blocks... I am going to try and find some kind of 2 inch block or maybe a piece of metal plate to go over the blocks...

I really thought it was only my install, I am very happy you posted so we have something to help future users setting this huge pool up.... if I find something that works I will come back and post how I fixed it...

casey
 
I had the same thoughts with the steel plates over the pavers.. And to be honest, I considered just doing steel plates instead of the pavers while planning.

Now that I see what's going on with this thing, I think 3/16"-1/4" plates over the pavers are going to be the ticket. That should be thick enough to spread the load on the paver and not bend while doing so. The problem is, at least near me, steel of that gauge is not cheap.

I may just put steel over the ones that broke, and just continue on that path of reinforcing if/when they break... if I can figure out a way to jack this heavy beast up!

How did you jack yours up? I was thinking of one of those post style jeep jack's to lift at the top rail right by the problem leg.
 
Make sure you drain some water before jacking it up. If you don't do the steel, go with a very thick concrete pad of 4". These pools are very heavy!
 
Ok, I'm searching for either thicker concrete or steel. I'm up to 6 shattered pavers now. I assume a good outdoor rustoleum paint job on the steel plates would be sufficient?

I have a kids birthday party planned this weekend; draining, fixing, filling, and re-treating the water will take longer than I have for time.

So far where the pavers have broken, the top rail is only sagging by 1/2-3/4".. will I do any irreparable damage to the frame if I wait to fix this until after the party?
 
Will it do any damage, that I am not sure, I am crossing my fingers that no damage is done... As for fixing after the party that is something you will need to make a decision on, what happens if someone gets hurt and it is not your children or family... just something to think about...

Junk yards have plate steal laying around everywhere :) it does not have to be pretty, just work...
 
I think that would work really well, I was looking at this from lowes... Shop Britt Beige Ledgewall Concrete Retaining Wall Block (Common: 12-in x 4-in; Actual: 12-in x 4-in) at Lowes.com

- - - Updated - - -

Found it at lowes :) Shop Cap Concrete Block (Common: 4-in x 8-in x 16-in; Actual: 3.625-in x 7.625-in x 15.625-in) at Lowes.com

$1.48 each and will fit perfect under each leg :) looks like the weekend is going to be busy for me

Now to find a couple cheap pools to transfer water

Nice find on those 4x8x16! My local lowes had nothing like those when I was their shopping. Now the web site says 6 avaialable. Now to track down 18 more!

Btw, I'm up to 9 or 10 broken pavers now.
 
Yeah, I've read number 6 in the instructions.. wood rots, gets soggy, and will not last very long. Especially down here in SWFL where the ground pretty much stays saturated due to rain 6 months of the year.

So called reinforced tiles don't exist, at least not down here. And believe me, I checked with everyone imaginable.

Since this is a salt pool, and my most cost effective means of leveling was a lime based dirt (read that as acidic).. Steel pads weren't high on my priority list, as short of expensive powder coating or hot dip galvanizing, there's not much you can do to protect steel from rusting quickly.

So, based on research, I chose to attempt using concrete pavers. If these supports had any sort of flat foot on them, the pavers I chose would have worked. In hindsight, the round tubes that concentrate the load along a very narrow path should have been a very clear indicator of potential problems.
 
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Now that is handled, my temporary solution is to use a Jeep jack to lift the rail enough to slide some PT in place of the concrete pavers. When I have time and more funds, I will invest in some stainless steel or aluminum plates 15 x 6 x .25 to use as a foot to spread the load across a wider area of the pavers. And probably get pavers like the 4" thick ones linked to by cowboy Casey above.
 
Thanks for the wish of luck Casey!

THE only reason I'm not doing the 4" thick pavers right now is that my local lowes and home depot do not stock them, special order only for anything thicker than 2" So due to my time crunch, $45 worth of PT lumber will have to do for now.
 
I don't know anything about Intex pools, but from a structural perspective, it sounds like you need a little flex in the support pad. This would allow for the ground directly under the support post point load to compact a tad more than the rest of the pad. Concrete pads without rebar can't handle much flex at all, so I suspect that's why the manufacture suggests pressure-treated plywood (or steel).

I would go with the 1.25" thick pressure-treated plywood option which will last a very, very long time. I'd use two 5/8" or 3/4" sheets, paint the cut edges with wood preservative and use a bead of landscape glue to hold them together nicely. If they deteriorate, you'll see it and they can be replaced.

I'll bet there's an engineer on here would could tell you the thickness of common mild steel needed to be equivalent in flex. I wouldn't use steel myself, because it's heavier and takes longer to cut (depending how cool your tool shed is). It would certainly get rusty, but again, it would surprise me if it lasted less than 20 years, and wasting can be allowed for by going a size thicker. If it were me, I'd put a plastic pad under each leg to avoid contact between the two different metals.

I remember when we put ours up (it was a used cheapy) a mate told me to set the wall a wee tad lower than they say, to take downward strain off the sidewalls. Would that cause wrinkles? But I only mean a wee bit. I'm only mentioning it because the pad swap is a perfect opportunity, if you chose to lower it a smidge. I was also wondering if they've changed, but when we saw down-force on the vinyl, we would lift the coping and let the vinyl down a bit cause he told me the walls are only for the horizontal load.

Good luck with the projects and I hope you've got good knee-pads!
 
I looked at the 6x6 and feel that would be a better option than 2x15 boards. But, my dirt pad is only 3-4" thick, and I have plastic under it to prevent grass growth through it. To do the 6x6 would require breaking that barrier.
 
I don't know anything about Intex pools, but from a structural perspective, it sounds like you need a little flex in the support pad. This would allow for the ground directly under the support post point load to compact a tad more than the rest of the pad. Concrete pads without rebar can't handle much flex at all, so I suspect that's why the manufacture suggests pressure-treated plywood (or steel).

I would go with the 1.25" thick pressure-treated plywood option which will last a very, very long time. I'd use two 5/8" or 3/4" sheets, paint the cut edges with wood preservative and use a bead of landscape glue to hold them together nicely. If they deteriorate, you'll see it and they can be replaced.

I'll bet there's an engineer on here would could tell you the thickness of common mild steel needed to be equivalent in flex. I wouldn't use steel myself, because it's heavier and takes longer to cut (depending how cool your tool shed is). It would certainly get rusty, but again, it would surprise me if it lasted less than 20 years, and wasting can be allowed for by going a size thicker. If it were me, I'd put a plastic pad under each leg to avoid contact between the two different metals.

I remember when we put ours up (it was a used cheapy) a mate told me to set the wall a wee tad lower than they say, to take downward strain off the sidewalls. Would that cause wrinkles? But I only mean a wee bit. I'm only mentioning it because the pad swap is a perfect opportunity, if you chose to lower it a smidge. I was also wondering if they've changed, but when we saw down-force on the vinyl, we would lift the coping and let the vinyl down a bit cause he told me the walls are only for the horizontal load.

Good luck with the projects and I hope you've got good knee-pads!

My tool shed is an automotive fabrication shop, I can cut, bend, weld etc with relative ease. I just don't like the idea of kids playing around potentially rusty steel.

As for lowering the walls, it would indeed take some load off of them, but it would also cause them to lean inward. Based on what I saw when filling the pool, they will also not be straight in this condition, and I like things to be straight and square. Must be the fabricator in me.

I had planned to start yanking concrete and installing wood yesterday, but it started raining as soon as I got home, and we got enough rain overnight to over-flow the pool. The worst part, I had the pool about 2" down from the recommended full level. Which the full level is about 3" down from the point where it will overflow.

- - - Updated - - -

 
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We're back up and running! Kids are already playing in the pool too!?

Used 2x12 PT lumber cut to 14" length. It's not quite the width that was recommended, but it's holding! And it's still actually wider than the part of the legs that contact it. I think I'm just gonna leave it on them till Christmas time at least. Time to enjoy this thing for a while!!
 

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