New Member with an algae problem

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T

tobydog

0
May 15, 2016
34
Central Valley/ CA
Hello,

Like most people, a problem with the pool brought me to this site. The pool is less than a year old and I find myself battling an algae problem. A couple of days ago I found some yellow/green spots on the walls/steps. They went away with some brushing but returned the next day. Woke up today to a greenish tint to the water. Aside from this algae problem, I have been fighting tons of dirt/sand getting blown into the water. The high winds combined with a yard that isn't completely landscaped has me fighting an uphill battle. Luckily, sod will be going in this week so this shouldn't be an issue going forward. After doing some reading here, it seems I need to SLAM the pool. A K-2006 test kit is on the way and should be here tomorrow. To get ready for the SLAM, I bought 8 gallons of 10% and had my water tested at the pool store. THe results were:

FC - 3
TAC - 3
CH - 200
CYA - 80
TA - 110
pH - 7.8
Pho - 750

I don't know how accurate these readings are though. I tested the water with the basic kit I have and found the TA to be 80 and the pH to be 7.6. Also, the CYA level seemed to be higher than what I expected. The PHOSFree product was recommended, but I decided to hold off on that for now. I would hate to dump stuff in there that isn't really needed.

So... my question is... How much liquid chlorine can/should I add until I receive the K-2006 test kit? Whether I add any liquid chlorine today or not, I plan on vacuuming, sweeping, and cleaning the filters. Hopefully I can get this thing straightened out before Labor Day.

Thanks in advance!
 
Get your kit and stay out of the pool store. You will be hopelessly confused if you decide to "double check" your results.

Nobody cares about your pool as much as you do.

You can safely add 1 gallon daily to that size pool until you get your kit and provide accurate testing.
 
duraleigh said:
Get your kit and stay out of the pool store. You will be hopelessly confused if you decide to "double check" your results.

Nobody cares about your pool as much as you do.
Click to expand...

That is my plan. Hopefully the kit shows up early in the day so I can get the accurate results posted up here. Until then, I will go ahead with adding one of the gallons. I want to get on top of this thing before it turns into a lagoon.

Is the phosphate level they came up with worth worrying about? Or is it something that is secondary to clearing up the water?
 
Ok, I got my K-2006 test kit today. Just tested and these were the results:

FC 4.6
CC 0.4
PH 7.6
TA 110
CYA 80
CH 290

I'm surprised the CYA is as high as it is since the pool is only 9 months old. My pool is set up with an inline tablet chlorinator that I usually don'k keep all the way full. All I can guess is that too much conditioner was added by the builder during the initial set up. I'll try to find my first print out from the pool store. I'm guessing I need to lower the CYA before starting to SLAM. Is it safe for the plaster to drain over a third of the pool when it is this new?
 
It is fine to SLAM with CYA at 80, I did it last summer. It is just the initial dose to get to shock level that is big, after that it will use the same amount of chlorine as it would have with CYA at 30.

Phophates are not important in TFPC.
 
Thanks for the reply. After adding a gallon of chlorine yesterday and again today, the green tint to the water is gone. Still have the algae on the walls though. I plan on doing the SLAM later this week when I have the time to be around the pool. Until then, I'm going to retest and add enough to get the FC to 9.
 
The tablets are where your CYA is coming from. Each tablet adds some. Over time it builds up. The only way to get rid of CYA is to drain water and add new. Please take the tablets out of the inline. Do not just turn it off as that allows the water inside to get very full of the dissolved tablet and will cause problems in the long run.

You can keep your CYA where it is at. It will take more chlorine to clear your algae is all.

Kim:cat:
 

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So far, I have just closed the valve so it doesn't fill with water. I'll have to try to fish them out somehow since they stack on top of one another in a column.

I will probably start with CYA at the current level. If I decide to drain some water, is there anything I need to worry about with newer pool?
 
Be careful with the inline chlorinator. As was said earlier, if it has water in it but no circulation the chlorine level gets very high. Don't have it sitting in hot sun and pop the top off with your face close to it. I was struggling with a sticky lid and got a face full of chlorine gas when it finally came off. Not an experience I'd care to repeat.
 
It is a plaster pool.

- - - Updated - - -

DorsalSpine said:
Be careful with the inline chlorinator. As was said earlier, if it has water in it but no circulation the chlorine level gets very high. Don't have it sitting in hot sun and pop the top off with your face close to it. I was struggling with a sticky lid and got a face full of chlorine gas when it finally came off. Not an experience I'd care to repeat.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I hear ya. I got all of the tabs out that I could without unbolting it from the cement. I opened the lid while the pump was on to make sure it wasn't filling up with water, and it was not. Figures I had to fill it completely just before switching to the TFP method. Oh well.
 
Okay so newer plaster pool. This is the last paragraph of the new plaster care page, which may apply to you depending on how new yours is:
"No matter what start-up procedure is used, your pool will consume a lot of acid during the first 6-12 months as the plaster finish continues to cure. It is important to test your pH daily and do not let it climb above 7.8. Be sure to continue to brush the pool at least weekly during this period."

Then there is this thread that, although old, has comments by some of this sites most expert members.

 
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