I am trying to get some clarification on what replacement cell I need here. We bought the house in October and had the pool open recently. We are in NY and the water hasn't been above 50 once so, I know that is why the cell isn't generating. It has been cleaned but I am positive it is at least 5 years old. The system is Hayward H-40 and I am just having a hard time figuring out which cell to buy because I see they have the GLX ones and others. Lots of options on Amazon. Would need T-Cell-9 as that is what is in it now.
Hayward (Goldline Controls) H-40
- Thread starter r_l
- Start date
Software revisions before 1.50 are only compatible with the T- 15 cell.
The H40 is the same thing as an aquarite. A t-9 cell will work if the salt level is very high because the high salinity makes the t-9 perform like a T-15.
Most likely, your salt level is very high. Get a k-1766 salt test kit to check.
The first four of the serial number on the box and cell tell the date of manufacture. The cell will begin with something like 5E10 and the box will begin with something like 5A05. The first number is the number of years of warranty. The letter tells what part of the system. The next two are the year of manufacture.
Can you post the diagnostic readings?
The H40 is the same thing as an aquarite. A t-9 cell will work if the salt level is very high because the high salinity makes the t-9 perform like a T-15.
Most likely, your salt level is very high. Get a k-1766 salt test kit to check.
The first four of the serial number on the box and cell tell the date of manufacture. The cell will begin with something like 5E10 and the box will begin with something like 5A05. The first number is the number of years of warranty. The letter tells what part of the system. The next two are the year of manufacture.
Can you post the diagnostic readings?
I had the salt tested with strips and at the store. I am at 3000 right now. There is currently a T-9 in there. Numbers are 3E14174-201631
3E14 is still under warranty. It's fairly new and was probably replaced last year. However, it's not compatible with r1.33. You need a T-15 or you can replace the circuit board part number glx-pcb-rite to get the newer software.
Can you post the diagnostics?
Can you post the diagnostics?
Readings:
2300
71
31.3
0.00
100P
-0
AL-1
R 1.33
Right now I am just looking into replacing the cell, I believe. I have the pool running and right now have the heater on. I added a small amount of salt today so the generator is off. It has been off the entire time because well, it wasn't doing anything.
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Would it be easy to tell if they had replaced that board? Should I just purchase http://www.amazon.com/Hayward-T-CEL...UTF8&qid=1463235313&sr=8-1&keywords=t+cell+15
2300
71
31.3
0.00
100P
-0
AL-1
R 1.33
Right now I am just looking into replacing the cell, I believe. I have the pool running and right now have the heater on. I added a small amount of salt today so the generator is off. It has been off the entire time because well, it wasn't doing anything.
- - - Updated - - -
Would it be easy to tell if they had replaced that board? Should I just purchase http://www.amazon.com/Hayward-T-CEL...UTF8&qid=1463235313&sr=8-1&keywords=t+cell+15
The cell is probably good. The board is old because the software is an old revision. The system is not working because it thinks the salt is too low. A t-15 cell would work or replacing the board (glx-pcb-rite) would be compatible with the t-9.
Software before r1.50 does not show the t cell type in diagnostics. r1.50 and newer shows the tcell type in diagnostics and allows you to select the cell type.
Software before r1.50 does not show the t cell type in diagnostics. r1.50 and newer shows the tcell type in diagnostics and allows you to select the cell type.
The cell I listed, will that work? The Amazon link. Thank you for your help.
Do you think I would need a new flow switch too since I am replacing the cell already
Move the switch from off to auto to see if the system turns on. If it does, the flow switch is probably ok.
Saturn94
Bronze Supporter
- Mar 11, 2015
- 1,746
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Only if it's broken. I'm still using the original flow switch that came with my Aqua Rite SWCG (installed March 2004) with no problem.
Note that it’s not unusual for the thermistor on the circuit board to go out within two weeks of installing a new T-15 cell. That’s because the high sustained current of a new cell stresses the thermistor and can cause it to crack.
Check the voltage with the cell off and on to verify good voltage. When off, the voltage should be 30 to 32 and on the voltage should be 24 to 27 volts.
If the voltage drops below those values, the thermistor is likely gone bad. You can look at the thermistor and see if it’s cracked.
Check the voltage with the cell off and on to verify good voltage. When off, the voltage should be 30 to 32 and on the voltage should be 24 to 27 volts.
If the voltage drops below those values, the thermistor is likely gone bad. You can look at the thermistor and see if it’s cracked.
I replaced the T CELL 9 with the T CELL 15 per your recommendation and it kicked right on and everything is good now. Thank you for your help!
Good job. Thanks for the update.