Z-Wave 220v automated switch

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RobbieH

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Aug 30, 2010
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Dallas, TX
So, I'm looking for a Z-Wave 220v switch, but can't find one.

I found the Evolve LFM-20, but it appears to only disconnect one leg of the 220v, which makes me a little nervous. Should I be?
http://www.evolvecontrols.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/specs/LFM-20_Isolated%20Contact%20Fixture%20Module.pdf

Here's the scenario:
My equipment is in a room at the back of my house. If I were to spring a leak, water would fill my garage and the bathroom at the back of the garage.

I have a pretty nice home automation setup, including a Samsung SmartThings 2 hub. I have a SmartThings water sensor in the room to notify me in the event of water. But, I would like to take this a step further and configure it so that if water is present, not only am I notified but also the equipment is automatically shut off.

Has anyone found a switch I can do this with? I am not looking for something to plug in, I realize I'll be hardwiring and I am fine with that.
 
So that I understand you correctly you want to kill the 220v supply power to your pool equipment in the event of a water leak picked up from a water sensor. And you are right disconnecting only 1 leg of a 220v circuit is a very very bad idea.
 
That is correct, that's my goal.

Yes, I figured it was a bad idea. I understand how 220v works and that's why I am concerned.

Not only am I an IT guy, I've spent most of my career around data centers. Knowing when water is present is very important both in a data center and at home. I would not like my pump running 30-50 GPM out into my garage and surrounding rooms!
 
Without getting too fancy isn't there a relay input on the intelliflo that tells the pump to shut off? that way without getting into expensive and complicated wiring you could just have your water sensor trip a relay and command the pump to shut off via the pool automation you already have.
 
I don't have an automation system. Wiring won't be expensive or complicated, I've done plenty of wiring and can handle the job myself. It's just a matter of finding the right switch.

My equipment consists of a pump, filter, and SWG, and that's it. The only valve I have is the two way valve on the filter. Automation would be a giant waste for me. :)
 
You have an intelliflo pump, it should be able to accept an external relay input to tell the pump to shut off. You have automation already it's built into the VFD on top of your pump.
 
atttech-2 said:
you can use a 220 V conctactor with a 110 V coil like This
Click to expand...

Very cool. Its basically acting as a relay. I can do that, no problem.

I was just looking at the activities I can fire with the stock SmartThings stuff, and unfortunately there isn't a stock "turn these off when leak detected". So I'll either have to write a custom activity, or use IFTTT. But I can do either one, not in love with using IFTTT, but it is better than nothing.

Thanks for the help!
 
If you really wanted to kill circuit power and assuming you have gfci breakers for your pump and SWG cell you could do it this way.
Assuming your smart sensor has a 24v or similar output to tell you it's sensed water. Use that output to drive a relay that would short 1 hot leg to ground thru a high ohm resistor on the gfci circuit you are trying to trip. In essence you would be creating a relay powered gfci circuit protection tester. This is actually what happens when you press the test button on a gfci device. Gfci devices meant to protect humans have a trip current no greater than 5 mA.

- - - Updated - - -

The problem with using a contactor like that one is that is have to be powered "on" all the time and only turn off when you sense water. Left in that state the coil driving the contactor wouldn't last you very long, maybe a year.
 

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Sensor has no output at all. It's just a simple Z-Wave Samsung water sensor.

I don't have GFI breakers, but it wouldn't be out of the question to switch them. I have a Square D QO panel and breakers. Just put it in two years ago. Before that I had the infamous Federal Pacific Stab-Lok panel!

I found some NC (normally closed) contactors. In fact, a NC would work best for me because then I could tell SmartThings to turn on the light switch for switching the contactor, which then would open the 220v. Also, most smart light switches (if not all) default to OFF in the event of a power failure, and that way I would not have to be worried about power cycles killing the power to the pump and SWG.

I'm still researching, thinking, brainstorming...

(Edited because I said NO and meant NC)
 
If you go with an NC contactor that's no so bad you still need a water sensor driven output to power the contactor open . Many ways to skin a cat on this one.

That aside you should have GFCI on your pump and SWG. The filled the hole in the old NEC code that allowed you to design GFCI out of the system by using a 30amp breaker. The newest code mandates every circuit related to a pool needs its own separate protection
 
No need for water sensor output.

Samsung water sensor - Z-Wave
GE or Wemo light switch to change contactor
Configure activity so that if the water sensor detects water, it turns on the light switch, which opens the contactor.

I'd rather have an automated 220v switch though!

I already have an activity set up so that if water is detected, it turns on my bedroom and kitchen lights and sounds an alarm on my cell phone.

There was no code for swimming pools that I know if in 1957. So, I have a lot of stuff that does not meet current code.

There's also not a maintenance cut-off for my A/C compressor, you know, that sort of stuff.

I'm not saying I won't switch the breakers, just there was no code at the time it was all installed.

- - - Updated - - -

I thought you might get a kick out of what was my A/C unit was until recently:

ac1.jpg


ac2.jpg


Note compressor is 3 phase. :) Carrier said the serial number means it was built in 1957.
 
I will have to wait till I get out of work to see the picture I love old equipment. I'm currently working with cranes for a shipyard we have working equipment ranging from 19014 - 2016. Its pretty amazing to see stuff built over 100 years working like they were built yesterday.
 
Well if you like old stuff, here's my old FP Stab-lok panel. Don't get the idea that it "still works", they didn't work right when they were new.

Garland001Medium.jpg


And here is the old plumbing setup for the pool. Note all the copper. It used to go over to a heater, but I took out the heater.

plumbing.jpg
 
It ran until about 4 years ago. :)

They kept saying "you got your money's worth out of that one". I said "No I didn't, I wasn't even born when that was purchased". :)

Thanks for the Intermatic information. That's what I was looking for. I can get rid of my old Intermatic timer, too, because I can use scheudles on the SmartThings. Not an issue right now, because I'm 24/7, but it sure gives me some flexibility. $90 isn't bad, either.
 
RobbieH said:
Thanks for the Intermatic information. That's what I was looking for. I can get rid of my old Intermatic timer, too, because I can use scheudles on the SmartThings. Not an issue right now, because I'm 24/7, but it sure gives me some flexibility. $90 isn't bad, either.
Click to expand...

Glad it helped. I'm just glad to be able to contribute instead of always leeching information from this site. Too bad they discontinued it, there's not really an exact replacement.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
 
It arrived while I was traveling for work, and I got to look at it last night. It sure will do what I'm wanting to do, and even seems to have some flexibility to do some other things too. I may wire it in tonight (wiring is simple on it), I'll let you know how it goes as soon as I am done.
 

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