New Pool Build - Porter Ranch, CA

I'm digging my P/E pad!
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WOW oh wow! I am just now catching up on my other threads so I am able to add an new one to the mix. YOURS is awesome! LOVE the shape and play areas of the pool! Very well thought out. It is going to be fun to see what areas gets the most use by the adults and kids.

LOVE the view for sure! awwwwwwwwwww to sip the night away looking at that from the pool! OH yeah!

Kim:cat:
 
WOW oh wow! I am just now catching up on my other threads so I am able to add an new one to the mix. YOURS is awesome! LOVE the shape and play areas of the pool! Very well thought out. It is going to be fun to see what areas gets the most use by the adults and kids.

LOVE the view for sure! awwwwwwwwwww to sip the night away looking at that from the pool! OH yeah!

Kim:cat:

Thanks, Kim! Happy to have you along for the ride. You always contribute so much to other threads. Hopefully I'm ahead of the game here...I already have my TF100 and I've tested my tap water. I'll post results when it gets closer to fill time.

Greg
 
AND you have read quite a bit! It shows in everything you do and say! THANKS!

Now if I forget your have already done quite a bit of reading just pat me on the head and say thanks LOL. I tend to forget who I have said what to so will resay it to make sure it gets said!

Kim:cat: (sitting back to enjoy the show)
 
Pebble Startup Question

I'm not sure if I should post this here in my build thread or start a new one? I'll start here and move it if need be.

Since I'm doing this pool basically as O/B and looking to save a few bucks anywhere I can, I'm considering doing the startup myself. Doesn't seem that bad given that I'm going to do the maintenance myself.

I've read the plaster startup document in Pool School and I'm a little confused. For the most part plaster and pebble seem to be very similar except for some discrepancies such as swimming right away (per Kim), not worrying about wrapping the hose with a towel, etc. In the PS startup doc, it says to add a startup dose of sequestrant. What is that? Also, they will acid wash the pebble on day 2 and am I then to follow the Traditional startup? I've been very careful to ask the plaster company for the warranty guidelines and here's the document they sent:

Congratulations on your new Pebble Tec® or Pebble Sheen® pool finish. Please note a very important factor pertaining to the product warranty. The water chemistry in your swimming pool and/or spa must be maintained at certain levels to prevent scale build-up, (a white haze on your pool finish). Scale removal is not covered by warranty. It is recommended to test your pool water monthly at a retail pool supply store (in some stores testing is computerized). In addition, it is suggested that you regularly use a Jack’s Magic® test kit sold at pool supply stores (ask for a Jack’s Magic Sequest Test along with regular chemistry). Even if you use a pool service company, it is still recommended that you regularly check your water chemistry balance to be sure it is properly maintained. The most common removal of scale is by draining your pool, cleaning with chemicals and pressure washing. Scale removal will be done at your own expense.
The START-UP process below began as soon as water was filling your swimming pool and/or spa. In order to initially balance the proper water chemistry:
1. Begin filling pool with water. Filtering of fill water is recommended in some areas. The pool MUST be filled without interruption!
2. Get the pool circulating as soon as possible, with the main drain open and the skimmer closed; the pool can be circulated safely when the water reaches the return lines.
3. Once the pool is circulating adjust alkalinity to 80 ppm, pH to 7.0 - 7.2; and Jack’s Magic® the Blue Stuff® to 20 ppm (1 quart per 10,000 gallons of water). Leave pool circulating continuously for at least 72 hours. DO NOT add chlorine during first 48 hours. Note: For superior filtration, Purifiber® can be added to the filter (according to directions on the package) to achieve the most efficient filtering of any contaminants.
4. Brush pool thoroughly using a nylon or nylon/wire-combination brush. Vacuuming the pool with a vinyl vac is also recommended (any vac without wheels is fine). A vinyl vac head will allow more efficient cleaning and can be used immediately upon start-up.
5. The pH and total alkalinity must be monitored daily to prevent scaling.
6. DO NOT CHLORINATE until pool has filtered and pH and total alkalinity are acceptable. Chlorine is highly reactive and can cause metals or minerals to precipitate (cloud water, scale and/or stain). At least 48 hours is recommended. DO NOT SHOCK pool (super chlorinate) above 5 ppm for at least 10 days, to give the pool time to filter and stabilize.
7. Cyanuric acid (stabilizer) can be added at any time; increase to 30 ppm. We recommend adding stabilizer around the same time as when first adding chlorine.
8. In areas of soft water (low calcium hardness) raise calcium to 200 ppm. Normal calcium levels are 200-400 ppm. As the surface cures, the hardness levels may increase. DO NOT raise calcium level until pH and total alkalinity are stable (7.2-7.4 and 80-100 ppm).
9. To prevent staining or scaling, Jack’s Magic® the Blue Stuff® levels must be maintained above 12 ppm. This level can be monitored with a Jack’s Magic Sequest Test™. Average start-up dosage is 1 quart per 10,000 gallons of pool water. To ensure the pool does not stain or scale, the homeowner should maintain sequest levels on a weekly basis (some pools will require more Jack’s Magic® “Stuff” depending on heaters, well-water, type of chlorination, etc.).
l Pools with ionization/mineral systems: Start-up as instructed above; then activate the ionization/mineral system at the 2-week point of the start-up process. Change to Jack’s Magic® the Ionizer Stuff® at this point, rather than the Jack’s Magic® the Blue Stuff®.
l Pools with alternate sanitizers: Start-up should be followed by the recommendations of your Pebble Tec® licensed applicator or pool builder. Use Jack’s Magic® the Purple Stuff®.

What is this "Blue Stuff" they call for? I've never heard that referenced here on TFP in all the reading I've done. Seems like one of those pool store chemicals that I should avoid. The rest of their document seems pretty straightforward. Here's my tap water levels as tested a few weeks ago wit the TF100:

FC = 1
PH = 7.8
TA = 110
CH = 175

I think I'll be able to use PoolMath to figure out the now/targets OK. However, any and all advice is appreciated. Scheduled for Pebble on 8/25!

Thanks,

Greg
 
I wouldn't hesitate to do the startup yourself. So long as you have a good test kit, there should be no issues. Pebble Tec follows somewhat of a traditional style startup so that should keep things simple for you.

A sequestrant is cheap insurance and is used to prevent issues if you have metals in the water. Probably more importantly, they can limit scale formation (since calcium is a metal) which is needed because with new plaster, the pH will tend to rise quickly (especially at the plaster surface). The last thing you want is scale on a brand new surface. Any of the recommended kinds of sequestrants will work . Sequestrants based on HEDP, phosphonic acid, or phosphonic acid derivatives are the most effective like Jack's Magic The Pink Stuff (regular), The Blue Stuff (fresh plaster), and The Purple Stuff (salt). I wouldn't go as far as to test the ppm of the sequestrant but just do a one time dose based on projected gallonage (usually one bottle per 10,000 gallons).

Your fill water looks fine so there should be any surprises. The only thing I would deviate from PT's recommendations are to target a pH of 7.5-7.8

Your plaster will get applied one day and get acid washed and pressure washed the following day. Filling can then begin immediately and continuously until the water level reaches the mid point of the skimmer mouth. The primary pump can then be turned on and run continuously for about a week at a moderate speed.
 

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Quick update: we passed pre-plaster inspection today. Pebble is scheduled for Thursday, acid wash Friday. Getting close! I think I have everything I need as far as chemicals, etc. I'll be sure to post here for help with the startup if I need it.

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Now I need to decide if I should do artificial turf on the side yard but I'm worried about the heat.

So far we love our fake grass. Green with no maintenance - of course keeping things green may not be as big of a hassle in California. It is considerably hotter in the sun than real grass. On hot sunny days we'll burn our feet if we are not wearing shoes. Supposedly you can spray it down and it will cool off quickly, but we haven't tried that. No matter how hot to the touch the grass is, our kids will still lay their towels out and eat picnics on the grass or dry off without any complaints. One thing we weren't prepared for is that sun reflecting from nearby windows can melt the grass, so we have to add sunscreens to nearby windows.
 

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