Greeting from Collierville, TN- second house- first SW pool!

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Purduecrew

0
May 11, 2016
28
Cville, tn
Like the rest of us schlubs, I'm new to the pool game. I have tried to do my research. Ill keep it short and sweet:

Problem- green algae spots formed sometime between Monday night and Tuesday evening on some horizontal flag stone surfaces ( mostly on shallow areas). Freaked out. Didn't want to get into this mess.

Situation- PO did a good job maintaining the pool uncovered through winter using chlorine pucks. Pool looked nice and clean and strip tested OK. We got insane busy moving in the last seven days and I forgot to check water quality for that week ( new habit I guess). Weather got warm/sunny quickly over the last four days. Water temp now at 76.

What I have done to this point-
Tuesday night-
Dumped in 5 gallons of 7.86% total available chlorine bleach. Brushed it in, etc. Added 400 pounds of salt. Have had pump running with robot running non-stop for the last week ( probably what prevented it from getting even worse/faster).

Today- brushed pool again and cleaned skimmers out. Appears that about half the algae disappeared overnight. But I did see two new single spots on a little deeper spot on the floor of the pool.

Got water professionally tested Wednesday( today) 9AM with these results:
FAC-4
TAC-.2
SALT-2800PPM
CH- 160
CYA-50
TA-80
PH-7.8
COPPER-0
IRON-0
PHOSPHATES- 200

Wednesday (today) 10AM-
Brushed again, added 3 gallons of same chlorine. Also added about 18 oz of Phosfree from Leslies. Pool has always been 99% free of debris and skimmers/pump filter are being washed out daily. Turned on SWCG and activated boost mode.

5PM- brushed pool again, cleaned skimmers. Nervous about adding even more chlorine.

Water still looks blue/pretty clear. Im still freaking out about the algae and hurting the pool. Water never went green nor did entire pool get covered in algae.

Equipment:

Two main pumps ( one for jets, one for waterfalls), twin sand filters, APURE 1400 SWCG, Gunite Pool, 35,000 gal, Kidney bean shape, with sun deck and stairs done in flagstone. Polaris 280. Think that covers it?

When looking at SLAMing, If I understand correctly I need to get my PH down first, then get my CYA up to 70? Then add the chlorine to get the shock level FC level going. But Im concerned about the PH and the CYA levels going too high or is that the risk we take? Do I need to SLAM really?

Leslies recommended a half gallon of algaecide tonight and said that should knock it out.

This is where I get lost. Any advice? Freakin out in Memphis!
 
Hi and welcome to TFP! :wave: First thing .... STOP, and don't go back to the pool store. Not for advice or products unless you want to drain your checkbook and get more frustrated. We can help. Professional testing? Nope ... YOU. You CAN and should test your own water. It's very easy, affordable, and will save you time and $$$ down the road guaranteed. Please see the TF-100 link below in my sig. Either the TF-100 XL Option or Taylor K-2006C is what you want. Also get the speed stir for excellent mixing.

For now, remember ... algae must be killed with chlorination, and a SLAM will do just that. Some things for now:
- Put nothing else in your water except for regular bleach; about 1/2 gallon per day until your kit arrives.
- Do NOT put algaecide in the water; many introduce metals to the water, then you have two problems.
- Are you using tablets/pucks? Take them out if you are.
- Do not raise CYA any more until AFTER the SLAM. Yes, pH needs to be about 7.2 before starting. Everything else hinges on your getting one of those kits. I recommend the TF-100 as a better value, but it's your choice. YOU can do this!

- - - Updated - - -

And remember ....

 
Ok test kit is on the way. Im gonna go get one more free test just to see what they say is going on with it this evening.

I will hold off adding anything else. What should I use to get the pH down? Is there like a secret list of household ingredients people use???
 
Examples:



- - - Updated - - -

While you wait for your kit to arrive, I would also recommend getting used to the Poolmath Calculator (link below as well). That is one of the best tools in your TFP arsenal. Let your eyes get used to the rows and columns now, and even try entering some practice NOW and TARGET/GOAL numbers. When your kits arrives, you'll be ready.
 
Question:

What is wrong with using the "algae control" that they sold me? ( can't return it anyway) I don't believe it contains any metals per the MSDS.

I brought up the calculator and it makes good sense however I get this when I plug in all my test results with only a desire to lower pH to 7.2:


CSI[FONT=courier, courier new, monospace]-.21[/FONT][FONT=courier, courier new, monospace]-.79[/FONT]Calcite Saturation Index - requires pH, TA, CH, CYA, Temp, uses Borate, Salt
Less than -0.6 is suggestive of problems for plaster, tile, stone, and pebble pools.
Greater than 0.6 is suggestive of problems for all pools.


What is that going to do to me here?

Otherwise, it tells me to add 87 oz of MA, which seems pretty straightforward.

All these links are great. Already learned more tonight than I did this morning!
 
What kind of pool do you have? Oh just found it buried...

Please add your pool details to your signature as described HERE as it will help us help you.

Because your CH "appears" to be low, your CSI is low when you make the pH that low.

But, who knows if the pool store testing is even remotely close.

- - - Updated - - -

I would not lower the pH that far until you know what the real numbers are.
 
You're learning! Perfect. The calculator displays suggestions or concerns, and in this case protecting your plaster. Just remember the numbers you are using, some perhaps from the pool store, are not what we will use. Often times the pool store tests are way off the mark, either through incompetence, poor lighting, or simply being in a hurry. Once you do your tests with your own kit, that's when we'll adjust things for good. If you're still worried about pH right now, there's no need to go all the way down to 7.2. You can keep the pH in the mid 7 range for now, then we can validate/adjust everything once the kit arrives. Then you can bounce everything off of the calculator again just before the SLAM. Does that sound better?
 
Texas Splash said:
You're learning! Perfect. The calculator displays suggestions or concerns, and in this case protecting your plaster. Just remember the numbers you are using, some perhaps from the pool store, are not what we will use. Often times the pool store tests are way off the mark, either through incompetence, poor lighting, or simply being in a hurry. Once you do your tests with your own kit, that's when we'll adjust things for good. If you're still worried about pH right now, there's no need to go all the way down to 7.2. You can keep the pH in the mid 7 range for now, then we can validate/adjust everything once the kit arrives. Then you can bounce everything off of the calculator again just before the SLAM. Does that sound better?
Click to expand...

Yes everything ya'll are saying makes sense! Thank you so much for not running us all off for asking dumb questions. Ill get my sig updated too. Ok so Im going to maintain a holding pattern of brushing and cleaning until test kit comes Friday. Will update then. Thank you all!
 

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Man this forum is hopping!

Didn't test anything today at pool store ( got home too late). Kit arrives tomorrow. Brushed pool this evening. Chlorine still tests high on test strip. Did add 1 gallon of liquid chlorine 7.86%.

Happy to report that all spots are now gone from all the flagstone and grout areas. Only two-three spots left now where bottom meets side in the shallow end. They are definitely not getting bigger but don't seem to be getting smaller.

Ran waterfalls for a couple hours tonight to help do extra work filtering...patiently waiting on testing kit... water looked clear tonight with a little bit of "white specs" floating in the lights. We did have a bad storm today and got all the leaves and debris out within a couple hours. I contribute it to that for now.
 
Great. Hopefully the mail will be on time and you'll have that kit in your hands today. You will be amazed at the accuracy and clarity you have over managing your water when you test it properly. Post the following when you get it (instructions are in the kit):
FC
CC
CYA
pH
TA
CH

If you have any more questions, just let us know. Have a nice day.
 
ok results are in ( I followed the directions as close as possible!)

14 PPM FC
1 PPM CC
7.65 pH (false reading?)
9 PPM TA
230 PPM CH
<30 PPM CYA

Since Wednesday I have only filtered, brushed, and added 1 gal of chlorine late Wednesday. Even ran the waterfalls last night for an hour.

Pics of pool this afternoon during test:



 
You have a gorgeous pool! Okay, about your readings:
CYA is #1. It needs to be at least 30 ppm. If you still saw the drop all the way to the top, it's low, so add some more. Maybe just 10 ppm for now and retest in a couple days. Next, your pH appears to be good. We usually look at the comparator viewer and say "7.5, 7.7, 8.2", etc" Your TA doesn't make sense though. Maybe a learning curve there. After making the solution turn green, you add the drops until it turns bright Barbie pink/red. You should end-up with a number like 60, 70, 90, 120, etc. Leave the FC elevated at about 12 for now because your CC is also high. When the CC is over 0.5, there's a concern. Let the elevated FC work like a SLAM for about 24 hours, then re-check your CC. Maybe do an overnight (OCLT) test as well. Just to make sure you don't have algae hiding somewhere or about to bloom.

Make sense?
 
Well thanks all! I appreciate the compliments! We like it too :D And sorry for the delay, had to make a last minute 8 hour drive to see my parents and new nephew!

Two points of clarity:

I would say the CYA is right at 30PPM. I probably should have avoided the less than statement. I do have very acute vision so I was probably being way critical.

Also, I'm positive that the TA was 90 and that 9 was just a typo I made.

If we make these two assumptions, what would be the suggested plan of attack?
 
If water is still clear with no indications of cloudiness or algae, then based on a CYA of 30, maintain your FC around 4 (4-6 range) and never let is go below 2. Always keep your pH in the mid 7 range and you should be fine. If the water condition changes or you begin to lose more than 4 ppm of FC in a 24 hour period, then do an overnight (OCLT) test to see if you have organics in the water.

Now from your original post ... if you DO have green spots (perhaps algae) then adjust pH to 7.2-7.5 (lower with acid) and increase your FC to 12 to perform a "SLAM" (link below). Read that page carefully and it should resolve any green/algae issues.

If you have any questions at all, please let us know :)
 
Ok so I just got home and ran a test. Pool was unattended from Friday night till now (Sunday 8PM). Water levels receded about two inches due to Polaris tail streaming water into landscaping (doh).

Anyway, FC tested at 9PPM, CC tested at less than .5PPM. Water appears clear and ok from what I can tell. Sure doesn't look worse. It appears the two leftover algae spots have receded further to the size of a quarter.


Now, it does appear that the pH level has increased to about 8.0

I am going to add muriatic acid as discussed that I should unless someone else thinks differently, at least to get it down to 7.2 so I can proceed with SLAM.

Water looks great but tonight with pool lights on, there are light white particles floating around in abundance. Is this normal/acceptable?






Texas Splash said:
If water is still clear with no indications of cloudiness or algae, then based on a CYA of 30, maintain your FC around 4 (4-6 range) and never let is go below 2. Always keep your pH in the mid 7 range and you should be fine. If the water condition changes or you begin to lose more than 4 ppm of FC in a 24 hour period, then do an overnight (OCLT) test to see if you have organics in the water.

Now from your original post ... if you DO have green spots (perhaps algae) then adjust pH to 7.2-7.5 (lower with acid) and increase your FC to 12 to perform a "SLAM" (link below). Read that page carefully and it should resolve any green/algae issues.

If you have any questions at all, please let us know :)
Click to expand...
 
That is one pretty pool and area! WOW!

Moving on LOL

Yes seeing the the little floaties is normal at night. To help filter them out you can add DE to your sand filter. Just make sure you are there to babysit it as each filter is different. Some like this much, some like that much. I will tell you that even the best maintained pool will have some floaties at night with the light on. It is just a fact of life.

Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter

Kim:cat:
 
Interesting! Ok! Thanks for the link. For a second I was like dang is that algae??? But then I thought there's no way that could be that much algae floating around preying on my unavailability and the 9 FC water haha!

Ok so if thats normal, and I've maintained a 9+ FC for 7 days ( 14+ for about 4 days), can i go ahead and try an OCLT?

kimkats said:
That is one pretty pool and area! WOW!

Moving on LOL

Yes seeing the the little floaties is normal at night. To help filter them out you can add DE to your sand filter. Just make sure you are there to babysit it as each filter is different. Some like this much, some like that much. I will tell you that even the best maintained pool will have some floaties at night with the light on. It is just a fact of life.

Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter

Kim:cat:
Click to expand...
 

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