Can someone link me a weather proof SPDT switch I can put on my motor cover?

[Mike Hawk]

Anyone have one they've used and like? Lowes, Homedepot, or Amazon preferred if possible.

TIA!

 

[Mike Hawk]

Guessing this $3.83 toggle: Eaton XTD2B2A Toggle Switch, Screw Termination, On-Off-On Action, SPDT Contacts: Electronic Component Toggle Switches: Amazon.com: Industrial Scientific
And this $4.99 boot 10 pk: Amazon.com : iExcell, 10 Pcs 11mm Thread Dia Rubber Toggle Switch Boot Weatherproof Cover : Sports Outdoors

Or is there a better solution?

-Edit, I suppose a DPDT is more up to code as this would completely kill any hot legs going to the motor, but that's a pretty moot point because if I was messing around with the motor anyway I'd have power off at the breaker. Plus a DPDT adds extra complexity and wires in an already cramped space.

 

[gwegan]

Ok I'm rather lost here. What is it you are trying to do? Is this a new install? If existing how about a picture?

 

[n240sxguy]

Are you wiring a 2 speed pump with a switch at the motor? I just put a 3 way switch with a weatherproof cover at my pad instead of trying to mess with anything at the motor.


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[Mike Hawk]

Ok I'm rather lost here. What is it you are trying to do? Is this a new install? If existing how about a picture?

I'm upgrading from a single speed motor to a dual / two speed motor (AO Smith B2983). My current timer (PF1102T) can't control a two speed motor so I have to figure out a way to control low and high speeds on my new motor.

I'm a huge cheapskate

So my options I see, in order of cost:
1) Manual $8.82: A SPDT + weatherproof boot linked in post 2
2) Manual ~$40: An optional AO Smith motor cover with built in toggle switch A.O. Smith Toggle Switch and Canopy Kit for 56Y 2-Speed - 2512558-001 - INYOPools.com

3) Auto ~$50-60: Upgrade to an AO Smith motor that has a timer already built into the motor, aka the motors with the T at the end of the model number: B####T. This adds $50-$60 over the cost of their non-programmable motors. This seems silly for me as I already have an existing timer.
4) Auto $150-$350+ (yeouch!): Add a 2nd timer to my existing wall timer (ex: T106) or replace my existing timer with a whole new unit (ex: PE153F) Intermatic Pool Timer Dual Speed Pump Timer - T106R - INYOPools.com
or Digital Intermatic Time Clock Metal Enclosure W/ Freeze Protect - PE153F - INYOPools.com

Are you wiring a 2 speed pump with a switch at the motor? I just put a 3 way switch with a weatherproof cover at my pad instead of trying to mess with anything at the motor

That's my plan for now, switch it at the motor. I hadn't even thought of being able to put a toggle at the motor until I saw that AO Smith was marketing upgraded covers with toggles already built in.

This season I'll have to see how often I actually need to switch to high for backwash and vacuuming. If I do it often enough or I grumble enough at having to bend over and thru all the pipes to get to the switch I may reassess my thoughts and potentially upgrade to a wall mounted switch or just go Cadillac and get that PE153F.

 

[CA92807]

I suspect you want a hi/low speed switch for your pump. If I was doing this, I’d mount a waterproof J-box at a covenant location, bring the motor power from the GFCI to it and install a 2-way wall toggle (it’s a SPDT) and waterproof switch cover. Exit the box with flex to the motor. You can’t modify the motor’s cover and keep its UL certification.

 

[bobodaclown]

Here's what I did:
Purchased a SQL1072 3/4 HP 2 Speed 115V

Ordered from Digikey a toggle switch SPDT (PN EG4816-ND) for $4.28 (rated for 2 hp) and rubber boot (PN335-1125-ND) for the switch $3.20 with shipping came to $10.28 for a high/low switch for the motor. I'll drill the cover and mount the switch.

If I had to do over, I'd opt for the normal 3-way switch option, and use a water resistant standard electrical box attached to the wall. Run wire down flex conduit to the motor.

 

[Mike Hawk]

Hmm, there might be enough room in my Intermatic housing to mount the switch internally. I'd need a low profile or rocker it looks like though. That bottom plate is just a cover that you take off to wire up everything, there's lots of empty space behind it.

I'd rather not have to throw on another wall wart box. Yes, I'm a bit crazy like that.

 

[n240sxguy]

Mine is already jumbled up, so it didn't pain me to add this.

I wouldn't want one on the motor because it would be harder to get to. Depending on what's behind the metal right under the clock, you may be able to drill there and put the switch there. Make sure it's all insulated. That would be my biggest fear with a regular set screw toggle switch.


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[gwegan]

I understand the cheap part.

But as you can see from the posts above the way most folks prefer to do this is to either get a new timer (T10604R) or control it from a switch in a jbox.