So.....on top of all that you have a Werewolf infestation too!
Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
Newb that needs help.
- Thread starter Coach_1
- Start date
Well the mail came and no test kit. Ordered some stuff from Amazon prime and only recieved one item out of 4. I'll never figure that place out. So I'm anxiously waiting another day.
First test with the K-2006
FC- 6.6
CC- .2
Ph- 7.4 (acid demand to lower to 7.2 was 2 drops. Don't know if this info is needed)
TA- 150
CH- 170
CYA- 30
saturation index is (-0.2)
Tell me your thoughts on what to do please. TA is high and CH is low.
FC- 6.6
CC- .2
Ph- 7.4 (acid demand to lower to 7.2 was 2 drops. Don't know if this info is needed)
TA- 150
CH- 170
CYA- 30
saturation index is (-0.2)
Tell me your thoughts on what to do please. TA is high and CH is low.
Don't know how it affects the test results but we did get 3/4th of an inch of rain overnight.
Use 10ml of water for the FAS-DPD chlorine test so each drop is 0.5ppm and you save reagent.
How does the water look?
The only concern is the CH being a little low, but the CSI is fine, so it is not a huge deal.
How does the water look?
The only concern is the CH being a little low, but the CSI is fine, so it is not a huge deal.
Here is a picture of the print out from the pool store water test. They use the Waterlink DataMate 10 by LaMotte.
150ppm CYA is in the recommended range??? FC should be at 4ppm max? This is why we ignore the pool store. 
Did you have fun doing the test?
Now start keeping a journal/log of your tests. Note weather conditions to help you learn what the different weather will do to your pool levels.
For me a HEAVY rain will push my PH up due to the aeration.
After a while you will find the rhythm of your pool and will be able to tell just by looking at it that something is off. Do your tests and use Pool Math to show you want needs to be done.
Kim:cat:
Now start keeping a journal/log of your tests. Note weather conditions to help you learn what the different weather will do to your pool levels.
For me a HEAVY rain will push my PH up due to the aeration.
After a while you will find the rhythm of your pool and will be able to tell just by looking at it that something is off. Do your tests and use Pool Math to show you want needs to be done.
Kim:cat:
Just added the print out for comic relief.
It it was fun and a little overwhelming learning the new tests. Glad to see I'm on the right track.
Should i I get a stain id kit or just treat with pro team metal magic or jacks?
It it was fun and a little overwhelming learning the new tests. Glad to see I'm on the right track.
Should i I get a stain id kit or just treat with pro team metal magic or jacks?
Have you tried the tablet and Vit. C tests yet? (too lazy to look back)
LOL on the comic value of the P$ print out! Makes you glad to have found us huh??
Kim:cat:
LOL on the comic value of the P$ print out! Makes you glad to have found us huh??
Kim:cat:
Good morning, coach. Glad to see you got a kit and glad your iron reading from pool store says .1 ppm, not higher, and doesn't show copper. The metals part is one thing pool store testing is useful for, though in your case there's much more concordance than usual with parts of the tests 
To go back to your original concern about the stain:
Since the vit c test showed some improvement, there is reason to believe an ascorbic acid treatment would work. You can read up on the AA treatment to consider. Ascorbic Treatment to rid Pool of metal stains
But again, since you just had an acid wash, we don't know age/condition of plaster, etc., I just want to be sure we don't misdiagnose a plaster problem for a coincidental metal problem, because its possible to have both. While ascorbic acid is gentler than an acid wash, its still acidic
Lets recap for the benefit of posters who might know more about plaster than I: correct anything I've gotten wrong here--
- Your ch does not seem high enough for scaling, but you just came out of an acid wash and refill
- The staining is getting worse, but did not appear until after the acid wash and after a high dose of algaecide
- You are not on well water
- the staining was also lightened after a errant puck sat on it for a long time
- pool store test reads .1 ppm iron, technically not enough to create a stain, unless all other iron has already precipitated to a stain
So, here are some questions that might help:
- On refill, did you also add a metal sequestrant or stain and scale product? If you have, the low reading likely suggests you need to top up...sequestered metal often won't read
- Why did you have the acid wash to begin with? We're there stains then that prompted same?
- Have you called the company that did the acid wash to see what they say about this new staining?
- What was the name of the triple dose of algaecide you used? Some of those contain copper. Even though you read zero on copper at the pool store, its possible it precipitated and caused the stain.
I will see if there's anyone about who can help determine what might be going on here.
To go back to your original concern about the stain:
Since the vit c test showed some improvement, there is reason to believe an ascorbic acid treatment would work. You can read up on the AA treatment to consider. Ascorbic Treatment to rid Pool of metal stains
But again, since you just had an acid wash, we don't know age/condition of plaster, etc., I just want to be sure we don't misdiagnose a plaster problem for a coincidental metal problem, because its possible to have both. While ascorbic acid is gentler than an acid wash, its still acidic
Lets recap for the benefit of posters who might know more about plaster than I: correct anything I've gotten wrong here--
- Your ch does not seem high enough for scaling, but you just came out of an acid wash and refill
- The staining is getting worse, but did not appear until after the acid wash and after a high dose of algaecide
- You are not on well water
- the staining was also lightened after a errant puck sat on it for a long time
- pool store test reads .1 ppm iron, technically not enough to create a stain, unless all other iron has already precipitated to a stain
So, here are some questions that might help:
- On refill, did you also add a metal sequestrant or stain and scale product? If you have, the low reading likely suggests you need to top up...sequestered metal often won't read
- Why did you have the acid wash to begin with? We're there stains then that prompted same?
- Have you called the company that did the acid wash to see what they say about this new staining?
- What was the name of the triple dose of algaecide you used? Some of those contain copper. Even though you read zero on copper at the pool store, its possible it precipitated and caused the stain.
I will see if there's anyone about who can help determine what might be going on here.
On the refill nothing was added chemically. Although there was about 2 ft of water and leftover chemicals they used to to finish scrubbing with.
They recommended the acid wash due to dark brown/green walls. And since it sat unattended for 5 years full of swamp. I assumed (yes I know) they new what they were doing.
Yes, I went down to their office yesterday and laughed at what they said and left. Basic pool store bs. You need to by this and that from me to put in speech.
The he algeacide was the HTH brand from Walmart.
Thanks for for all the help so far.
They recommended the acid wash due to dark brown/green walls. And since it sat unattended for 5 years full of swamp. I assumed (yes I know) they new what they were doing.
Yes, I went down to their office yesterday and laughed at what they said and left. Basic pool store bs. You need to by this and that from me to put in speech.
The he algeacide was the HTH brand from Walmart.
Thanks for for all the help so far.
It is fine to do the AA treatment, just be sure to keep PH at 7.0 to 7.2. It is also fine to live with the stains for a while and get the pool chemistry dialed in and then see what happens.
I think I'll get the chemicals correct for a while and see what happens.
What adjustments in the chemicals do I need to make?
Not much! Here are the recommended levels, Pool School - Recommended Levels
Your TA might be a tad on the high side which could cause your PH to rise. So, keep an eye on your PH. Adding muriatic acid to lower your PH will also slowly lower your TA over time. No need to do anything now, just monitor PH.
CH is low, you can switch to cal-hypo to chlorinate for a while to increase it to 250 to 300 or see this page for other sources to increase CH, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Here are the recommended levels, Pool School - Recommended LevelsYour TA might be a tad on the high side which could cause your PH to rise. So, keep an eye on your PH. Adding muriatic acid to lower your PH will also slowly lower your TA over time. No need to do anything now, just monitor PH.
CH is low, you can switch to cal-hypo to chlorinate for a while to increase it to 250 to 300 or see this page for other sources to increase CH, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Similar threads
