I have an Intex Pure Spa that throws a e95 code, meaning the water is too hot! But it will throw this code if the water is 55 F! So the water is not too hot! The heater works when the code isn't on. I thought maybe the controller was bad so I tried a buddy's controller and it did the same thing. Sometimes it does not throw the code. Does anyone know if there is a heat sensor of some kind anywhere on the pump or anything? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Intex Pure Spa E95 Code, I need help!!
- Thread starter batmatt86
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!!!Sorry for the delayed response, but this is a very specific question that few members will have experience with.
Bumping for attention.
Trying one more time with a bump!
These spas have a one year warranty. Call Intex to get it replaced. You'll need a receipt showing delivery within the past year.
I am having the same error code 95 and have tried multiple things. I have tried resetting, changing the filters, changing the outlet, tried running it with and without the heat. We do not get the error code when the heat is turned off. We are past our 1-yr warranty and from what I see a new pump will cost just as much as the whole hot tub. Any help on this would be very much appreciated.
Hi...Mine has just started to display this code E95, the heater will not come on...just wondered if you have managed to find out any more?
Regards
Mark.
I have same error code E95. Filters work with heater turned off. Heater will not turn on. Intex says code means water is too hot. My water temp is 70 F, so that's not correct? Has anyone been able to fix this issue?
This might help. Re: Intex Pure Spa E95 Code, I need help!!
This is a theoretical discussion only concerning Intex Error Code 95. "Water Too Hot" issue when it is not! My tub was still under warranty when it failed after 10 months of lite use. Intex sent me a new base but this is how I might have effected repairs on the old base.
One could bypass the normal digitally controlled heating process in favor of an analog process.
1. You would need to add a relay that is normally open to the recirculation pump leads. The type of relay depends on the voltage supplied to the recirculation pump motor. My motor appears to run on 12 volt AC so a 12 volt relay would be in order. Coil lines run to the pump power leads while the N/O circuit is wired to another, second, 120V AC 10 Amp dpst or dpdt relay. This relay ensures that the heating element only receives power when the recirculation pump is energized and that the heating element lines are isolated when not in use. Otherwise, the heating element could turn on and either boil the water or worse.
2. The second relay actually takes the power load for energizing the two heating elements lines which would be rewired from the control board to the 120 volt relay. They can be wired together in parallel, not series.
3. A Thermostat, 104°F Temperature Thermal Switch Normally Closed KSD301 40C A324, is then attached to the recirculation pump short hose, pre-wrapped with aluminum tape first, then wrapping the thermostat with electrical tape after it is installed to keep it in place and to aid in reflecting the heat back to the switch. This is wired, inline, with the 120v heating element relay coil circuit in order to shut the heaters down once the return water reaches 104 degrees. This permanently sets the temperature to 104 degrees.
It appears that from my research, that while the recirculation pump causes some of the failures, $60 from Intex usually due to the ceramic pump shaft snapping, that other failures are due to the thermo heat sensor(s) or control board. Both of these failures are very hard to troubleshoot and detect with my limited skills. Also, it appears that, other than the pump, gaining access to the control panel and thermo sensors is not particularly easy.
Parts could be purchased from eBay and Amazon.
Bill
This is a theoretical discussion only concerning Intex Error Code 95. "Water Too Hot" issue when it is not! My tub was still under warranty when it failed after 10 months of lite use. Intex sent me a new base but this is how I might have effected repairs on the old base.
One could bypass the normal digitally controlled heating process in favor of an analog process.
1. You would need to add a relay that is normally open to the recirculation pump leads. The type of relay depends on the voltage supplied to the recirculation pump motor. My motor appears to run on 12 volt AC so a 12 volt relay would be in order. Coil lines run to the pump power leads while the N/O circuit is wired to another, second, 120V AC 10 Amp dpst or dpdt relay. This relay ensures that the heating element only receives power when the recirculation pump is energized and that the heating element lines are isolated when not in use. Otherwise, the heating element could turn on and either boil the water or worse.
2. The second relay actually takes the power load for energizing the two heating elements lines which would be rewired from the control board to the 120 volt relay. They can be wired together in parallel, not series.
3. A Thermostat, 104°F Temperature Thermal Switch Normally Closed KSD301 40C A324, is then attached to the recirculation pump short hose, pre-wrapped with aluminum tape first, then wrapping the thermostat with electrical tape after it is installed to keep it in place and to aid in reflecting the heat back to the switch. This is wired, inline, with the 120v heating element relay coil circuit in order to shut the heaters down once the return water reaches 104 degrees. This permanently sets the temperature to 104 degrees.
It appears that from my research, that while the recirculation pump causes some of the failures, $60 from Intex usually due to the ceramic pump shaft snapping, that other failures are due to the thermo heat sensor(s) or control board. Both of these failures are very hard to troubleshoot and detect with my limited skills. Also, it appears that, other than the pump, gaining access to the control panel and thermo sensors is not particularly easy.
Parts could be purchased from eBay and Amazon.
Bill
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There are two thermal sensors in the Intex purespa. One on the intake and one on the outtake. The wire than clips into a harness that attaches it to the circuit board. The 50 degrees Celsius sensor is on the outtake that's the one that goes bad when you get the e95 error. I had different problems with this unit when it was still under warranty and they sent me a whole new one so I have lots of spare parts. This part was one that I ended up trading out recently and it fixed the problem.
By outtake, do you mean the outtake from the spa pool? Did you remove and replace the entire sensor assembly, or just the black sensor and wire and plug? Thanks for your response. I have the same problem, and have been cannibalizing another pump/heater unit.
Hi, same problem here. I also have spare to work with. Did you happen to take any pictures. I'm a retired lady trying to do this myself and pictures would be a big help.
Before you spend any money, try this first, it worked for me. Remove the Plastic cover over the Intex pump. There are two sensors which are easy to spot. They have shinny hex connections one on each side of the water flow.
Remove these with a box or small crescent wrench and clean the bronze tips of the sensors with a soft bristle wire brush. The tips of the sensors are copper and after six months to a year they build up corrosion. It doesn't
take a lot to cause them to malfunction. You can easily spot the corrosion it's usually green in color on the sensor tips. After cleaning, thread these back in and put the cover back on the pump and try your heater. Be careful not
to cross thread when re-installing these sensors. This worked for me without spending a dime. If this doesn't, you may have let the sensors go too long without cleaning and they/re damages. But don't fret. The sensors can be bought on line from ThermoMart. They run $6.50 - $10.00 each. Intex will tell you need a $350.00 replacement pump. Don't fall for that. I'd try these two fixes first is your a brave do it yourself type person. Oh, and remember to unplug your pump from the power source before attempting this fix.
Remove these with a box or small crescent wrench and clean the bronze tips of the sensors with a soft bristle wire brush. The tips of the sensors are copper and after six months to a year they build up corrosion. It doesn't
take a lot to cause them to malfunction. You can easily spot the corrosion it's usually green in color on the sensor tips. After cleaning, thread these back in and put the cover back on the pump and try your heater. Be careful not
to cross thread when re-installing these sensors. This worked for me without spending a dime. If this doesn't, you may have let the sensors go too long without cleaning and they/re damages. But don't fret. The sensors can be bought on line from ThermoMart. They run $6.50 - $10.00 each. Intex will tell you need a $350.00 replacement pump. Don't fall for that. I'd try these two fixes first is your a brave do it yourself type person. Oh, and remember to unplug your pump from the power source before attempting this fix.
Do you have a part number for ThermoMart for the outtake sensor? I am still looking but have not found it yet.
I ordered Item#NTC10K-S Spa Hot Tub Jacuzzi Pool water Temperature Screw Type Sensor Probe from ThermoMart and with expedited shipping it was $21.49 delivered in 4 days.
I was disappointed to find that the threads were smaller than the original Sensor so it would not fit.
On a whim, I wired the sensor in to the circuit, wrapped the sensor in electric tape and put it on top of the white plastic exit manifold (Not on the black heat Exchanger)
The Spa has been running for hours with no error and the temp is slowly climbing all evening.
I will continue to provide updates.
Thanks rflice for the tip.
The pump on the other hand is also an issue over time. These can be rebuilt using 1/8" brass rod stock from Home Depot or Lowes. This is a temporary fix lasting 3-6 months and eventually the impeller will wear out after multiple shaft replacements. If you buy a $50 pump from Intex you can always have a back up when the shaft breaks.
I am still searching for a pump replacement option and thought I had it kicked using an Intex Pool Pump I found but it has a built in Thermal Overload and will shut off then turn back on when it cools. Took a while to figure out why I was getting E-90 errors when the pump was still running. My wife and I had just gotten in when it shut off then restarted several minutes later.
The Rubber hoses between the pump and spa also go bad. I purchased 1"ID PVC tubing from Lowes, &1.99 a foot. I used a hack saw and file to remove the coupling/flange then cleaned it up with emery cloth to smooth the surface. It is a tight fit but stretching the tube out a bit and a touch of soap does the trick. Get some small hose clamps to finish the deal.
I have a second base due to all the issues and now have a full backup system.
I will post some pics for reference when I check back in with status updates.
Last point is to keep an eye on the inflation pressure, especially if part of it is exposed to sun light. A hot summer day can expand the air and blow a seam. I keep a cover on ours year round.
This is our third Winter in Cincinnati enjoying the hot tub and unless it is not working, My wife and I have used it every night, even when it has been single digits.
I was disappointed to find that the threads were smaller than the original Sensor so it would not fit.
On a whim, I wired the sensor in to the circuit, wrapped the sensor in electric tape and put it on top of the white plastic exit manifold (Not on the black heat Exchanger)
The Spa has been running for hours with no error and the temp is slowly climbing all evening.
I will continue to provide updates.
Thanks rflice for the tip.
The pump on the other hand is also an issue over time. These can be rebuilt using 1/8" brass rod stock from Home Depot or Lowes. This is a temporary fix lasting 3-6 months and eventually the impeller will wear out after multiple shaft replacements. If you buy a $50 pump from Intex you can always have a back up when the shaft breaks.
I am still searching for a pump replacement option and thought I had it kicked using an Intex Pool Pump I found but it has a built in Thermal Overload and will shut off then turn back on when it cools. Took a while to figure out why I was getting E-90 errors when the pump was still running. My wife and I had just gotten in when it shut off then restarted several minutes later.
The Rubber hoses between the pump and spa also go bad. I purchased 1"ID PVC tubing from Lowes, &1.99 a foot. I used a hack saw and file to remove the coupling/flange then cleaned it up with emery cloth to smooth the surface. It is a tight fit but stretching the tube out a bit and a touch of soap does the trick. Get some small hose clamps to finish the deal.
I have a second base due to all the issues and now have a full backup system.
I will post some pics for reference when I check back in with status updates.
Last point is to keep an eye on the inflation pressure, especially if part of it is exposed to sun light. A hot summer day can expand the air and blow a seam. I keep a cover on ours year round.
This is our third Winter in Cincinnati enjoying the hot tub and unless it is not working, My wife and I have used it every night, even when it has been single digits.
I will have to bookmark this for when I start getting error codes. From all the reviews, it seems you will almost certainly have an error code within a year or so.
As to the inflation pressure, this might be fixed on new models. The new ones (April 2017 according to my owners manual) no longer have pressure gauges for filling. This is because they instead have an over-pressure relief valve built into the fill port plug. They specifically mention this because it will release pressure in the hot sun and so your tub may appear under inflated in the evening/night.
As to the inflation pressure, this might be fixed on new models. The new ones (April 2017 according to my owners manual) no longer have pressure gauges for filling. This is because they instead have an over-pressure relief valve built into the fill port plug. They specifically mention this because it will release pressure in the hot sun and so your tub may appear under inflated in the evening/night.
Good to know on the relief valve jsetfert3. I may be the only one with an older unit still running that has not blown up, LOL.
I am not sure if it was my lack of patience or an issue with the temp feed back between the sensors. Everything ran for 24 hours with the temp climbing from 55 to 85. My wife and I love the evenings so I drained some, refilled from the hot water and got up to 102 when an E-96 started. That is a system error which I have not had yet. I currently have it unplugged and will report back soon.
The sensor is a thermistor. It's resistance value at 25C is 10,000 ohms. Theoretically a 10K ohm 1 W resistor could be soldered in place of the thermistor and effectively bypass the defective sensor.
I am currently having these issues with my spa as well. Would replacing the sensor with a resistor sounds fantastic but wouldn't it effectively keep the heater on 24/7 and cause the water to get way too hot?
Does anyone have any updates as far as long term after replacing the sensors with new ones? I ordered 2 of them should be here in 6 days. If these don't fix the issue i think i might try to devise a way to operate the spa functions without using the base which by all accounts is a piece of junk. I'm thinking of possibly using a bucket heater with a thermostat and a finding a cheap filter pump for a small pool and then a separate air pump for the bubbles and fashioning some sort of waterproof housing for them out of a storage, has anyone else tried a similar thing and had any good results?