pH issue

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B

Brian T

0
Apr 7, 2015
76
Katy, TX
I started on this forum about 1.5 yrs ago. I learned and applied the TFP method. I feel like I have been successful except for dealing with pH. Here are my numbers:

pH: 8.0
TA: 70
CH: 320
CYA: 50
Cl: 6.0

I have to add MA every 2-3 days to get the pH down to 7.6 ppm. Last year, I asked the same question and someone told me that my pool was new and the plaster is still curing. I was told that the pH could stabilize after my 1 yr anniversary. It's been a little over 1 yr and it still is doing the same thing. There are certain areas in the pool that have "white spots." Sometimes, I would put MA in a water bottle and put the cap back on. The cap would have a hole that I made. I would go to the area with the white spots and blast it with the water bottle. The white spots would go away.

I have tried lowering my TA down to 50 but it eventually goes back up again.

I have also had a pool guy doing some acid washing. It looked nice after the procedure was done but the pH would climb again.

I have read with envy how some of the people on this forum do not have to add MA because it stays constant. Will I ever get to this point or do I have to continually add MA?

Thanks,

Brian
 
You will Brian, and your numbers look pretty good. TA still has a little room to go lower if needed. Of course any spa spillover or other water features that create aeration add to your pH dilemma. Remember that your fill water may be high in alkalinity, so every time you fill-up that will be something to remember as well. I suspect the white spots are calcium-related due to the rising CSI level in you pool when the pH gets too high.
 
Texas Splash said:
You will Brian, and your numbers look pretty good. TA still has a little room to go lower if needed. Of course any spa spillover or other water features that create aeration add to your pH dilemma. Remember that your fill water may be high in alkalinity, so every time you fill-up that will be something to remember as well. I suspect the white spots are calcium-related due to the rising CSI level in you pool when the pH gets too high.
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Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing. I think the fill water is high in alkalinity. I do not have any spa spillover and my water features are very minimal. I guess Home Depot will always be getting my money for MA.

I'm just wondering if the more experienced pool owners on this forum are having the same issue as I am. When I say the same issue, I'm talking about having to continually add MA to keep pH balanced.
 
Brian T said:
Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing. I think the fill water is high in alkalinity. I do not have any spa spillover and my water features are very minimal. I guess Home Depot will always be getting my money for MA.

I'm just wondering if the more experienced pool owners on this forum are having the same issue as I am. When I say the same issue, I'm talking about having to continually add MA to keep pH balanced.
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Yes. Every time I add 2" of water I have to add another quart of acid. And that's with TA at 60.
 
There isn't really any difference, when you add acid it lowers pH and TA. When trying to drive down TA you can aerate your water to raise the pH faster but as long as you are adding acid you are bringing your TA down. One easy aeration option is to send in some kids to splash around, but there are other options like pointing your return up to break the surface of the water (my preferred option) and some people have put together PVC fountains and such to really up the aeration.
 
Donldson said:
There isn't really any difference, when you add acid it lowers pH and TA. When trying to drive down TA you can aerate your water to raise the pH faster but as long as you are adding acid you are bringing your TA down. One easy aeration option is to send in some kids to splash around, but there are other options like pointing your return up to break the surface of the water (my preferred option) and some people have put together PVC fountains and such to really up the aeration.
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I just went outside to see if I can change the position of my return to the "up" position. I wasn't able to. Is there a tool that I need to use. Thanks
 
If you have the standard eyeball type return, you might be able to use a large screwdriver by inserting it into the hole for more leverage. But be careful! You don't want to break it. If it doesn't feel like it's going to move with some slight "encouragement", take a pic of it and post here. You may have a unique return that needs to be loosened or something first.
 
Brian T said:
Ok, I have another question. How do you guys lower TA?

As far as I know, you just add MA? Is that correct?

What do you do different, method-wise, when adding MA to lower ph vs adding MA to lower TA?
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I run the spa full tilt, air blower and everything. The things looks like its boiling over it's so aerated. And then it spills into the pool.
 

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