When to start balancing water?

rdy2fly

0
Bronze Supporter
May 25, 2015
29
Wichita KS
I am in the process of filling my AGP for the first time after just getting it set up on Friday. Right now the water level is about half way, and is slowly filling. It is raining now and also still filing with the garden hose. I've been turning the water on and off because I don't feel comfortable leaving the water on while I'm gone.
So my question is, since it will be either later tonight or tomorrow before the water level is up to the intake to run the pump, and then I have to add the salt and wait 24 hours before turning on the SWG, should I go ahead and add some liquid chlorine in until then? I'm not sure how long it takes for algae to start but I would sure hate to start off my new pool under those conditions. But I also don't want to be adding chemicals in just because. Do you think it will be OK until Tuesday to start having chlorine in via the SWG since it is new, fresh water?



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If it's municipal water, the odds of getting algae in two days are pretty slim. That said, your half-filled pool is only about 3800 gallons so far, so 2 cups of plain laundry bleach is some cheap insurance. You can dribble it into the hose stream as it's filling and then give the pool a couple swipes with the brush to spread it out further.

We recommend getting things balanced and running as a bleach pool before you add the salt and start the SWG. If there are going to be any problems, it's one less parameter to add to the equation, and it does take about 24 hours for the salt to dissolve and mix as well. Finish filling the pool and get the pump and filter running and ensure there's no leaks and then test everything but CYA and post up the results and we'll walk you through the rest of it. With a fresh fill, you'll be up and running in a couple days, and most of that is just waiting for salt and CYA to dissolve.
 
This was interesting - I tested my water for the first time (using my handy dandy TF-100 kit) and came up with the following:

FC = .5
CC = 0
CH = 100ppm
TA = 120
PH = 8.2
Salt = 400ppm

This is our city water. I was surprised there was any chlorine in it at all. I did the test twice to make sure.
Now my question is, given the PH is 8.2, according to Pool Math I need to add 13oz Muriatic Acid to bring the PH down since my TA is high. Is it uncommon to have that TA reading from municipal water? I don't have any Muriatic Acid on hand and can get some tomorrow - but since this is a brand new pool and fill will adjusting my chlorine level and adding CYA affect the TA? I just wasn't sure if I needed to be concerned about the TA at this very moment.
 
Congrats on the new pool! Those readings are all in fairly normal range. You definitely need to keep your PH between 7.5 and 7.8. TA will come down on its own with your acid additions to lower PH.
 
This was interesting - I tested my water for the first time (using my handy dandy TF-100 kit) and came up with the following:

FC = .5
CC = 0
CH = 100ppm
TA = 120
PH = 8.2
Salt = 400ppm

This is our city water. I was surprised there was any chlorine in it at all. I did the test twice to make sure.
Now my question is, given the PH is 8.2, according to Pool Math I need to add 13oz Muriatic Acid to bring the PH down since my TA is high. Is it uncommon to have that TA reading from municipal water? I don't have any Muriatic Acid on hand and can get some tomorrow - but since this is a brand new pool and fill will adjusting my chlorine level and adding CYA affect the TA? I just wasn't sure if I needed to be concerned about the TA at this very moment.
Better than my fill water. TA is the very last thing you mess with, when you're bored. Every time you adjust pH down, TA goes down some, too.
 
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