Saltwater system for Easy Set 15 x 48 Intex?

Apr 17, 2016
14
Oceanside
Pool Size
32000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-30
We just filled a new 15 x 48 easy set pool in preparation for grandkids. I'm reading pool school and learned that either liquid chlorine (which I've done for now) or SW chlorine generation is best. I'm lazy, so the salt water system sounds good to me, but I'm still not literate in all this. I see that I need a separate filter and pump as well as the SWG system. Is the Intex Krystal Clear 637R adequate, or will I need/want to get a higher flow DE system? Can I start out with the 637R by itself and add the SWG later (using liquid chlorine meantime) and also later swap out the filter/pump for something better? I hope fittings and such aren't so specific that I have to map out everything way ahead. Also, I found the Intex CG-28669 Krystal Clear SWG on Amazon for about $150. Is that a good choice, or should I go with another dedicated SWG company and product. Appreciate advice and support from everyone on this forum.
 
Did your pool come with the 637R pump/filter? If so, it'll work okay if you want to try it for a while. But if you are looking to buy a new pump and the 637R is under consideration, I would skip past that and go with a sand filter and larger pump as Casey suggests for a little more money.

And you can add a saltwater generator at any time, even if you decide to stick with the 637R. As long as you stay with all Intex products, they'll hook right up together. Intex uses both 1.25" and 1.5" hoses, but most pumps come with the necessary adapters to fit either size. If not, they are readily available at Amazon or even local pools stores like Leslie's.
 
Thanks Jeff and Casey. Yes, the 637R came with the pool, so I'll use that for now and look at the Intex SWG. Right now I also need to get my CYA up, so I'm hearing I should use dichlor shock instead of liquid chlorine for awhile?
 
You can do that, but be aware that it can take a few days for CYA to register during testing. So be careful not to over do it, or you'll be draining some water to get it back down again.

I use granulated cyanuric acid myself, which I measure out according to PoolMath.

If the packaging tells how much CYA (aka stabilizer) is in the shock, you too can use PoolMath to determine how much you can use to get the desired CYA level for your pool.
 
So I purchased a lightly used Intex 8110 SWG from Craigslist and have it set up now. Referring to the instruction manual, it says I have 3736 gallons in my Easy Set 15x48 pool and need 0.9 lbs of cyanuric acid and 95 lbs of salt. I had a little less than a quarter of a 40 pound bag of salt the previous owner gave me, plus two 40 lb bags I purchased. Have put that in and estimate salt at about 100 lbs total. Also purchased 4 lbs of cyanuric acid--estimated about a quarter of that-- and soaked and stirred in a 5 gallon bucket --pouring water in pool and continuing to try to dissolve. I basically gave that up and scooped it all into an old sock which I'm hanging close to the return line flow--and squeezing out every time I think about it.

I don't have the recommended test kit, but I have a Leslie kit that measures FC, acid, PH and CYA--not salt. right now, the CYA has been in the water for maybe three days, the salt just about 8 hours. It's frankly hard to read the CYA, but it looks like it's somewhere between 0 and 30%. So I have a few questions for you helpful experts, and welcome cautions and criticisms also!
1. When should I start running SWG (manual says 24 hours, but is that required? Do I need to measure the PPM before starting? Manual says that optimum level is 3000 PPM. Will it hurt the SWG if it runs with low salt level, or will it just not produce chlorine?
2. When will my CYA be established? What CYA should I shoot for? Intex recommendation is 20-40 PPM.
3. Do I need to measure salt PPM before starting and regularly? Once salt level is established, it should not change much except with water loss, correct?
3. For my small pool, do I really need the recommended test kit, or can I use test strips and an occasional test with Leslies?

Thanks so much!
 
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1. It's not what the manual recommends, but I usually kick on the SWG as soon as the salt is mostly dissolved and stirred around a bit. It won't hurt your SWG if the salt hasn't dissolved enough for it to start working, it'll just give a "Low Salt" warning. Likewise with the total salt PPM. I usually measure it once at startup to get it in the ballpark, and then just let the generator tell me if it's high or low. If the SWG is happy (ie. no warning code) then I'm happy.

2. The TFP recommendation for CYA is 70-80 PPM, but you can go lower if you wish. A SWG generates chlorine at a slower but steadier rate than by adding it manually, so you can go a little higher with the stabilizer and probably decrease your generator's run time and make the cell last a little longer. It can take up to a week for your CYA level to read accurately after adding it.

3. See #1.

4. Strips are pretty much worthless. As long as you stay on top of it and never allow algae to get started in your pool, you can get by with a decent 6 way kit like you would get at a big box store or pool store. The problem is, these test kits don't measure free chlorine up to the levels required to perform a SLAM. So if you do ever have an algae outbreak and need to do a SLAM, you'll be flying blind until you do get one of the recommended kits, which is just going to add more time to what it takes to get your pool back in shape again. Save yourself the headache and get a good kit up front.
 
Thanks, Jeffchap. I'll pick up the recommended kit on Amazon I think.

One other question, I'm currently running a fifty foot extension out to the filter and SWG from my spa GFCI outlet and put the outlet connections off the ground about four feet in a handy tree trunk--pretty much out of the splash zone. I was planning to connect to my GFCI circuit, bury an external wire and bring up an outlet with two receptacles and a closing plastic cover about eight feet away from pump and SWG--well in range of their cording. Is this the best plan, or are there tried and true recommendations for this?
 
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