Hey y'all ... first timer. I'm waiting on my Taylor K-2006 to arrive and wondered if I can get a head start on cleaning up the green swamp in the meantime. The pool has been covered, not winterized. Can I do the following: remove the cover, start up the pump and start shocking it while I wait for my test kit to arrive? And regarding the pump, is there a specific pressure that I need to be watching for as I start it up? I know the water level needs to be at least midway up the skimmer. What can I do this weekend while I wait on FedEx? THANKS SO MUCH !!
New pool owner, can I do this?
- Thread starter shodges
- Start date
Scoop everything you can with a leaf rake
Backwash your sand filter thoroughly and note the clean pressure. Backwash it when pressure rises 25%.
Add half a gal of 8.25% bleach in the AM and 1/2 gal in the PM.
Backwash your sand filter thoroughly and note the clean pressure. Backwash it when pressure rises 25%.
Add half a gal of 8.25% bleach in the AM and 1/2 gal in the PM.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,759
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Weird ... I primed my pump and turned it on, the equipment is running but I see no water in my strainer box and my pressure valve isnt doing anything. My suction line and main drain line valves are positioned correctly. My water level nearly to the top of the skimmer box. What am I missing?
** Just thought of something else that MIGHT matter. Our pool has a known small floor leak so the water level dropped below halfway down the skimmer box a few times this winter (I would fill it back up periodically) ... could this have caused a lot of air in the lines that is affecting the priming issue? And if so, what's the easiest way to fix this? I'm going to fix the floor crack during the pool season.
** Just thought of something else that MIGHT matter. Our pool has a known small floor leak so the water level dropped below halfway down the skimmer box a few times this winter (I would fill it back up periodically) ... could this have caused a lot of air in the lines that is affecting the priming issue? And if so, what's the easiest way to fix this? I'm going to fix the floor crack during the pool season.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,759
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
You definitely should have a fill basket of water in the pump's strainer basket with the clear lid. You don't want the pump to run dry for too long. Either something is blicking water flow to the pump or you have a significant air (suction side) air leak. Have you been able to find anything yet?
No luck yet. I've tried everything I can think of, although I do not have a bladder hose attachment to try and blow the lines out.
- - - Updated - - -
FYI, my plumbing is set up with a skimmer pipe and main drain pipe leaving the pump ....both of the valves on them are VERY VERY hard to turn.
- - - Updated - - -
FYI, my plumbing is set up with a skimmer pipe and main drain pipe leaving the pump ....both of the valves on them are VERY VERY hard to turn.
Question: if I have a suction side air leak, wouldnt I still be getting some water coming into the pump from the skimmer/main drain lines? No water is coming into the pump from the pool at all.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,759
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Two separate lines for suction and still not getting enough water flow to/through the pump? That is odd. No chance you have any other valves "after" the filter closed thereby preventing anything from leaving the equipment pad and going to the pool on the pressure side? I guess if it was your pressure gauge would be high. Hummm, good seal on your pump strainer basket right? O-ring lubed well? Just brainstorming here.
Yeah very odd. O-ring is new and lubed well. I removed the drain plug on the bottom of the pump to check the o-ring, it's fine, lubed it up and put it back ... turned both lines off and on separately and turned the pump off and on, no change at all. Most of the water in my strainer is sucked into the filter, the bit remaining at the bottom is dead still with pump running, no bubbles, etc. Just cant figure out why no water is coming into my pump at all.
There are no additional valves that I'm aware of (I did not put this pool in, bought the house with it, first season, saw it running last fall before we moved in).
There are no additional valves that I'm aware of (I did not put this pool in, bought the house with it, first season, saw it running last fall before we moved in).
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,759
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
One thing to consider is that with a pool installed before you, it's possible the main drain doesn't work at all (unless you know it did before). Sometimes they are closed-off from a previous leak. So that would mean your only suction could be the skimmer. If it got an obstruction, then that could be it. Just a thought.
Just talked to the previous owner, the main drain has worked fine in the past. I cannot figure this out.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,759
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
So going back to post #5, is this the first day you've ever turned-on the pump after moving in? Water not getting pulled-in has to be from one of the following:
- Air leak on suction side breaking the seal of section to prevent pulling water
- Pump itself not pulling water (i.e. impeller damaged, blocked, etc)
- Obstruction in line(s)
Silly question, but is your filter multiport valve actually open on filter, backwash, rinse, etc?
- Air leak on suction side breaking the seal of section to prevent pulling water
- Pump itself not pulling water (i.e. impeller damaged, blocked, etc)
- Obstruction in line(s)
Silly question, but is your filter multiport valve actually open on filter, backwash, rinse, etc?
Filter multiport valve is on FILTER.
-yes, first day ever turning the pump on.
-seems like the impeller is fine because it's pulling water from the strainer area up into the filter.
-what are the odds that BOTH lines are obstructed??
I'm guessing it's an air leak on the suction side. So to be clear, if there is an air leak, that can completely stop water from pulling into the pump from the pool?
Is the best air leak detection method to use smoke? Where should I start?
-yes, first day ever turning the pump on.
-seems like the impeller is fine because it's pulling water from the strainer area up into the filter.
-what are the odds that BOTH lines are obstructed??
I'm guessing it's an air leak on the suction side. So to be clear, if there is an air leak, that can completely stop water from pulling into the pump from the pool?
Is the best air leak detection method to use smoke? Where should I start?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,759
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I would start here: Pool School - Suction Side Air Leaks. You can use a water hose to slowly pour water over fitting, the pump basket, etc to see if it makers a difference. Shaving cream can work at times, but be a little messy. Smoke works in spaces where there is no wind whatsoever. I would try isolating the two suction lines and focus on just the skimmer line for now since that's easier to get to. Problem is there is some unknowns here with a previous owner who says they didn't winterize. No telling if something got lodged or sucked into those lines. But by focusing on the skimmer line, you might be able to use a plumber's snake or drain king bladder device to ensure there is no blockage. As a quick test, try putting a water hose at one end with rag wrapped around the hose where you insert it into the pipe to "try" and hold a seal. Turn-on the water hose to see if you get water flow to the other end.
Poured water over the basket cover (pump running), no change. Did some smoke testing (pump/filter is housed inside a shed with no wind) ... didnt notice any smoke draw around any fittings/valves. I was able to push a water hose into the pipe that feeds into the pump and COULD see water coming back into the skimmer basket. Of course I cannot tell whether any water is coming back thru the main drain because the pool water is too green to see the bottom. Does that tell you anything?
FYI, my sk/md lines merge together into one 3" PVC pipe just inside my shed, just before the water reaches some black circular housing (Pentair logo on it) that is sealed shut with 8 screws. I opened it today and it has a flapper attached to the lid that blocks that main water line, until water pushes the flapper open - not really sure why this piece of equipment is on the line. It's about halfway between my strainer basket and where the 2 suction lines merge into 1 line. Hope that makes sense.
FYI, my sk/md lines merge together into one 3" PVC pipe just inside my shed, just before the water reaches some black circular housing (Pentair logo on it) that is sealed shut with 8 screws. I opened it today and it has a flapper attached to the lid that blocks that main water line, until water pushes the flapper open - not really sure why this piece of equipment is on the line. It's about halfway between my strainer basket and where the 2 suction lines merge into 1 line. Hope that makes sense.
How about a few pics of the pump, lines and overall? Might see something that way...
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,759
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
That item you described sounds like a check valve (spring type). It's supposed to keep water from flowing backwards to the pool to prevent losing prime to the pump. If it's not opening properly it could impede water flow on its way to the pump.