And so it begins.. Las Vegas Owner Builder pool...

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Regarding the comment about the wet deck.. I decided to go 18" to have a nice large surface to sit on and be submerged in the water. We have a step and then the wet deck. I personally didn't see the value in chewing up swim-able real estate with a ~6" deep ledge. Your mileage may vary, but I've heard a few others in very hot climates that shallow wet decks make for a much warmer pool during the summer. Being in Vegas that could be something to consider.
 
I am also used to an 18" deep wet deck, and am going for it in my pool for many of the same reasons pointed out by bradj. However, it is really a personal preference based on how you intend to use it. I have never spent much time in a pool with a 6" deep wet deck, so maybe I just lack the imagination on the shallower version's benefits. To me, the benefits of a 6" deck are if you (a) want a bubbler, or (b) want a lounge chair in the pool where you will be mostly out of the water , or (c) have toddlers just learning to walk who's buoyancy makes them top-heavy in deeper water. None of these were compelling in my case. When I am in a pool, I almost never sit on the first step; I am either sitting on the coping with my feet in the water, or sitting on a 16-18" wet deck/bench or standing in the water, so the deeper wet deck makes the most sense to me.
 
Hey Guys and Gals. Getting quotes in and contractors are asking some questions that I am not sure of. Should I get a Blower installed?? The electrician wants to know and that's a very good question. Does anyone have any advice on the matter? Also does anyone know if having a 36" retaining wall as a planter (will hold a berm too) needs to be engineered? I have one engineer who wanted to charge me double to do regular plans plus CMU wall engineering. Thanks for any info on the matters. I am making a list as quotes come in and will post once I get a decently solid list!
 
I thought you might like these previous quotes from other discussions to help you with your build:
In most cases, a blower is used when the air line is too long for just a natural venturi so the air intake is insufficient for the jet. Also, the force of the jet is caused by the water pressure and not by the blower or air. A blower simply makes more bubbles.
WARNING: Don't let the PB use less than 2.5" pipe for the spa or you might end up with weak jets. With a 2 HP I would even go with 3" pipe.
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You should be able to design the spa the same way with or without a blower. The difference is the length of the air line. If you want to bring the air intake line back to the pad, then a blower will probably be necessary. If you don't mind having the air intake line close to the spa, then a blower is probably not necessary.
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My spa has a blower with air holes in the floor of the tub. Yes, it does generate a whole lot of bubbles. I suppose if someone wanted to keep the surface rolling so nobody could see their swimsuit body beneath the surface, it's a good thing. Otherwise, I find it does nothing but a)make a lot of noise like a leafblower and b) inject a lot of cold air into the hot water, cooling it and forcing the heater to work extra hard. I suspect it's mostly a high profit upgrade for the builder. You aren't missing much by not having it.
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With properly designed spa plumbing, a blower should not be necessary.
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Need some help here. So in the plan you can see I have the planter wall attached with the pool. I am being told if I have it built with pool I'll need permits and it will cost much more with rbb and shotcrete. I can have landscapers add a CMU wall for fraction of the cost to hold the berm and match the existing wall. Anyone have any reason why I shouldn't just have the extra wall built later?? If there is a better forum if you can let me know also where to post. This is holding up my process before getting started ugh
 
Bustanoj said:
Need some help here. So in the plan you can see I have the planter wall attached with the pool. I am being told if I have it built with pool I'll need permits and it will cost much more with rbb and shotcrete. I can have landscapers add a CMU wall for fraction of the cost to hold the berm and match the existing wall. Anyone have any reason why I shouldn't just have the extra wall built later?? If there is a better forum if you can let me know also where to post. This is holding up my process before getting started ugh
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Are you saying you think it would be a good idea to have the wall/planter built behind the pool after the pool is finished? If a planter/retaining wall needs permits, I don't see why the pool doesn't.
 
Sorry if confusing. So the surrounding planter walls which are 36" high were being included in all construction, shotcrete, rbb and excavation bids. These costs were increasing by 5k for the project. My goal instead is to have a concrete retaining wall built after the pool is complete to match those plans. I can have these walls built much cheaper. I was bid 11,500 just for shotcrete bc they were including all of the planter wall. Hope this makes sense better now?!

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If the surrounding wall is in initial plans then it's to my understanding it has to be engineered and permitted and everything from the go. But I don't necessarily want it to be rbb and shotcrete for a 36" planter...
 

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A Pool builder is just a general contractor at heart... Ask them to build it using the materials you want if you think it will cost less. I couldn't imagine starting a new construction project directly overhanging my new pool
 
Bustanoj said:
Sorry if confusing. So the surrounding planter walls which are 36" high were being included in all construction, shotcrete, rbb and excavation bids. These costs were increasing by 5k for the project. My goal instead is to have a concrete retaining wall built after the pool is complete to match those plans. I can have these walls built much cheaper. I was bid 11,500 just for shotcrete bc they were including all of the planter wall. Hope this makes sense better now?!

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If the surrounding wall is in initial plans then it's to my understanding it has to be engineered and permitted and everything from the go. But I don't necessarily want it to be rbb and shotcrete for a 36" planter...
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That would be a cheaper and more economical way. My suggestion is to do pool up to shotcrete complete. Then do your cmu wall and concrete decking and landscaping above pool to completions. if do all that first still have access to everything before the pool is plastered.
 
Yes Brand. It is just money and yes we are going over projected budget already haha!! This darn berm in the back yard is costing us a pretty penny for all the things we have to do to secure it.

Update: Still in the process of working out bids and negotiations. Biggest factor right now is the shotcrete bids. Trying to figure out why so expensive. My brother in law had a pool that is 1017sq feet and 10 feet deep and was quoted less last year then the quote im getting this year. Rough life I know haha.

Ill keep everyone informed and post my prices and negotiations as they finish coming in!
 
bradj said:
A Pool builder is just a general contractor at heart... Ask them to build it using the materials you want if you think it will cost less. I couldn't imagine starting a new construction project directly overhanging my new pool
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Hey Bradj. So I just re-read your comment. I think I've confused some people. I am completing the pool including the rob and columns directly behind the pool. I have to build all that as one unit. The CMU I'm talking about is the 40' of it in initial design. I'll post new design and show you what will build.

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Brandwylie said:
That would be a cheaper and more economical way. My suggestion is to do pool up to shotcrete complete. Then do your cmu wall and concrete decking and landscaping above pool to completions. if do all that first still have access to everything before the pool is plastered.
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Hey Brand. Same reply I posted to Bradj. I think I've confused people. Everything above pool will be completed.
 
Ok everyone. I'm back. Ben MIA getting everything set. We start the dig tomorrow. Man oh man has it been a blast trying to talk with all these subs. Big shout out to Qinguy for all his help. So I will post prices and negotiations and description of my entire process tomorrow. For now it's sleeping tight and waking up in the morning and watching the digs begin!!! :D
 
Oh brand :p

Ok so here we go.

(shout out to bulldogz400 for the format)
The first price is the initial bid, the ($ in parenthesis denotes a lowered bid price), typically by negotiation.

Drawings / Plans
BID 1: $1500
BID 2: $775 (CONTRACTED)
Pool Builder:$4,800 (TO INCLUDE PROJECT MANAGER); (1700 PLAN ONLY)

Structural Engineering
BID 1: $275(CONTRACTED)
BID 2: $553
PB: $600

City Permits
Flat Rate: $707.50 + $220 water rec (Done)
PB: $1,020

Excavation (unfortunately pricey because the access is limited!)
BID 1: $4,850 ($4,500) ($4,000)
BID 2: $4,217.50 ($3,900) ($3,750) (CONTRACTED)
BID 3: $4,100 ($3,895) ($3,800)
BID 4: $4,600 ($3,900)
PB:$4,726

Plumbing
BID 1: $3,950 ($3,600)
BID 2: $3,349 ($3,000) (CONTRACTED)
PB: $4,110

Steel Reinforcing
BID 1: $2,500 ($2250) ($2,000)
BID 2: $2105 ($2,000)
BID 3: $1,850 ($1,750) (CONTRACTED)
PB: $3,096

Electrician
BID 1: $2,755 ($2,600) (CONTRACTED)
BID 2: $2447.50 ($2,300)
PB: $2,950

Gunite/Shotcrete (TBD)
BID 1: $ 11,290 ($10,160) ($9,560) ($9,200)
BID 2: $10,180 ($9,671)
PB: $10,500

So this is where we are as of now. Through these phases we have done well against what we were quoted by the pool company. Makes me laugh saving roughly around $10,000 just this far in the process.






 

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