Cirucpool RJ-20PLus

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misteur G

0
Aug 20, 2015
57
novato/CA
HI, I am new to this forum and to owning a pool. I am thinking about switching to SWG this year because my first pool summer last year was a little bit challenging. I had some algae coming back repeatedly, especially pink algae. Because I am traveling on regular basis , I do not want to run into these problems this year. I made some research and I am thinking about purchasing the Cirucpool RJ-20PLus. My pool is small (5500 gal) and I have a pentair superflo VS.

Any feedback on the Cirucpool RJ-20PLus? I also read in the forum some issue with VS pump and circupool.

Thank you
 
Welcome to TFP, :) What test kit are you using, post some numbers up so we can see what your water is doing, also, fill out your signature with you equipment so we can better help you Trouble Free Pool Also, check out some of the links in my signature for some light reading :)

I love the curcupool SWG's, the Rj20 is a nice system with all the bells and whistles and the nice to have things and you also get a free upgrade to the RJ20 for 699
CircuPool® RJ-16 Salt Pool System

I went with the basic SJ system, I like less things to go wrong :) for the SJ 15 you get the SJ20 upgrade for free and your at 539 dollars :)
CircuPool® SJ-15 Salt Pool System

There is another one to look at for 399, it may work well for your smaller pool.. it works great for my 700 gall spa on a setting of 3 to 4, you would probably need to run it at 7 to 9..
MegaChlor Pool Saltwater System Chlorine Generator
 
You are welcome, From your readings I would say you are in need of a SLAM, CC of 3 is way up there, anything above .5 is showing your have an algae problem coming or already started. So here is a start for you, this is needed even if you get a SWG, A SWG is great once there is no algae in the pool but once its there we do a SLAM to get rid of it :)

The BAD, With your CYA at 90, your SLAM free chlorine needs to stay above 35 at all times, that is very high to keep it but it can be done.. You can drain half of the pool to get your CYA close to 40, then your FC would only need to be 16.. Here is the interesting part, we recommend your CYA be 70 to 80 for a SWG pool so in the long run it may be easier to leave it but you will go through WAY more chlorine.

Here is a nice start

1. Pool School - Defeating Algae
2. Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

Make sure you balance everything before you start the SLAM and then only check FC and CC until you have passed all three tests in the OCLT

I hope this helps, if you have any questions please let us know

- - - Updated - - -

misteur G said:
Thank you for your feedback cowboycasey
I use the taylor k 2006 kit . also the aquacheck 7 for quick checking
Here are my results (with taylor k2006)
PH 7.2
CC:3
FC: 3
TA:80
TH:250
CA:90
Click to expand...

I just noticed, when you wrote CA, is that really CYA?
 
Cowboy is correct a SLAM is what you need to be doing to get rid of the alge. I just installed an RJ 30 + SWG and don't miss adding bleach daily.

last time I looked, discountsaltpool.com had a good deal on the Circupool equipment. Call them to order and ask for better deal, you might get it. Should not matter what brand pump your running.
 
cowboycasey said:
You are welcome, From your readings I would say you are in need of a SLAM, CC of 3 is way up there, anything above .5 is showing your have an algae problem coming or already started. So here is a start for you, this is needed even if you get a SWG, A SWG is great once there is no algae in the pool but once its there we do a SLAM to get rid of it :)

The BAD, With your CYA at 90, your SLAM free chlorine needs to stay above 35 at all times, that is very high to keep it but it can be done.. You can drain half of the pool to get your CYA close to 40, then your FC would only need to be 16.. Here is the interesting part, we recommend your CYA be 70 to 80 for a SWG pool so in the long run it may be easier to leave it but you will go through WAY more chlorine.

Here is a nice start

1. Pool School - Defeating Algae
2. Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

Make sure you balance everything before you start the SLAM and then only check FC and CC until you have passed all three tests in the OCLT

I hope this helps, if you have any questions please let us know

- - - Updated - - -



I just noticed, when you wrote CA, is that really CYA?
Click to expand...
yes it is. I live in Northern CA so emptying my pool and refilling it is not really an option, since we have been in severe drought for few years.
 
misteur G said:
yes it is. I live in Northern CA so emptying my pool and refilling it is not really an option, since we have been in severe drought for few years.
Click to expand...

no problem, you have taken the CYA down a bunch already and just as long as you know your FC will be high it is fine, many have done it before and I promise you will not be the last :)

I would recommend using 10% or 12.5% liquid chlorine, more chlorine per gallon :) You have HASA dealers near you so that is great news, I believe they have 2.5 gallon 12.5% carboys
http://www.hasapool.com/dealer_locator_hasa.php
 
Lately there have been issues with SJ SWG's and VS pumps causing flow errors at low speeds. The design of the SJ cells allows gas to build up in them when there is not enough flow through them. The RJ's are designed different and shouldn't have the flow issues at the lower speeds like the SJ's have. All SWG's have a minimum flow rate requirement and they vary by design.

I have not looked up the flow rate requirements of the RJ's but I'm thinking it should be similar to the Hayward's because the cells are similar in design.
 
ping said:
Lately there have been issues with SJ SWG's and VS pumps causing flow errors at low speeds. The design of the SJ cells allows gas to build up in them when there is not enough flow through them. The RJ's are designed different and shouldn't have the flow issues at the lower speeds like the SJ's have. All SWG's have a minimum flow rate requirement and they vary by design.

I have not looked up the flow rate requirements of the RJ's but I'm thinking it should be similar to the Hayward's because the cells are similar in design.
Click to expand...

I just called them and the technicians say 20 GPM "no air in cell" so it may need more or less depending on the pump/filter/pipe and connections.. I have a 1hp 2 speed and it works on low with no issues, exactly how many GPM mine is doing I am not sure.

That is a great point though, with that in mind I would make sure it could be exchanged for a different SWG if the flow was not enough.
 

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cowboycasey said:
no problem, you have taken the CYA down a bunch already and just as long as you know your FC will be high it is fine, many have done it before and I promise you will not be the last :)

I would recommend using 10% or 12.5% liquid chlorine, more chlorine per gallon :) You have HASA dealers near you so that is great news, I believe they have 2.5 gallon 12.5% carboys
http://www.hasapool.com/dealer_locator_hasa.php
Click to expand...

SO are you recommending these liquid chlorine for the slam or to use also after I install the SWG?
 
for the SLAM, after you have the SWG you only need to use liquid chlorine to raise your FC fast, example from 6 to 10 or during a SLAM.. I usually keep a gallon of 10% handy in case I need it and I pick up 4 gallons in the start of the season and 6 gallons before closing.. SWG's do not like cold water (below 65 degrees) and we recommend closing the pool when water is constantly about 50 degrees and opening about the same :)
 
cowboycasey said:
for the SLAM, after you have the SWG you only need to use liquid chlorine to raise your FC fast, example from 6 to 10 or during a SLAM.. I usually keep a gallon of 10% handy in case I need it and I pick up 4 gallons in the start of the season and 6 gallons before closing.. SWG's do not like cold water (below 65 degrees) and we recommend closing the pool when water is constantly about 50 degrees and opening about the same :)[

Thank you Cowboy , you have been extremely helpful. I have been using8.25% bleach. should I switch 10/12% liquid chlorine or it doesn't matter?
Click to expand...
 
Like Ping said, choose the cheapest and easiest option, all 3 work the same it just takes less of the 10% and even less 12.5% to raise your FC :) I just went and picked up 10% locally at 10 dollars for 4 gallons
 
ping said:
Lately there have been issues with SJ SWG's and VS pumps causing flow errors at low speeds. The design of the SJ cells allows gas to build up in them when there is not enough flow through them. The RJ's are designed different and shouldn't have the flow issues at the lower speeds like the SJ's have. All SWG's have a minimum flow rate requirement and they vary by design.

I have not looked up the flow rate requirements of the RJ's but I'm thinking it should be similar to the Hayward's because the cells are similar in design.
Click to expand...

I am glad you posted this. I had the same problem with gas accumulating in my CompuPool CPSC48's cell. After 4 years the controller for that gave up the ghost yesterday, and I ordered the RG-60 Plus through the upgrade plan. (I have a 44,000 gallon pool) It is good to hear I shouldn't have that problem with the new system.

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misteur G said:
SO are you recommending these liquid chlorine for the slam or to use also after I install the SWG?
Click to expand...

Note that even Circupool recommends it.
http://www.circupool.com/mobile/downloads/rj-g_usersguide.pdf
See the left column near the middle of page 3. "if additional chlorine is required ... use sodium hypochlorite ..." which is bleach.
 
image.jpg

At at low flow rates they recommend inverting the cell so gas does not accumulate in the cell. This is from the RJ manual.

Also, you can put the flow switch down stream of the cell so you have a nice straight section before the switch.

All of this is in the installation manual.
 
cowboycasey said:
You are welcome, From your readings I would say you are in need of a SLAM, CC of 3 is way up there, anything above .5 is showing your have an algae problem coming or already started. So here is a start for you, this is needed even if you get a SWG, A SWG is great once there is no algae in the pool but once its there we do a SLAM to get rid of it :)

The BAD, With your CYA at 90, your SLAM free chlorine needs to stay above 35 at all times, that is very high to keep it but it can be done.. You can drain half of the pool to get your CYA close to 40, then your FC would only need to be 16.. Here is the interesting part, we recommend your CYA be 70 to 80 for a SWG pool so in the long run it may be easier to leave it but you will go through WAY more chlorine.

Here is a nice start

1. Pool School - Defeating Algae
2. Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

Make sure you balance everything before you start the SLAM and then only check FC and CC until you have passed all three tests in the OCLT

I hope this helps, if you have any questions please let us know

- - - Updated - - -


Today I am at
PH:7
FC:17
CC:1
I just added a gallon+ of Clorox
Click to expand...
 
2 things,

1. your PH will be off and can not be trusted when FC is over 10, so no need to test that during SLAM, so just test FC and CC :)

2. A FC of 17 is not high enough for a CYA of 90, you need to be at or just above 35.. The good thing is your CC is already not liking the raised FC level and that is a good thing :)

The nice thing is your pool is on the small side so your SLAM may go very fast and you will use less chlorine overall compared to a 20 or 40 thousand gallon pool :)

Get in there and add your FC to 35 and brush that pool, the weekend is coming so the more you can test and keep your FC above 35 the faster it will go :)
 

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