I will be running the electric for my above ground pool this weekend and I cant decide on whether to run three circuits from the main panel in the house or run a sub panel on a post out by the pool. I want one circuit for my pump, a two speed 2hp hayward, one circuit for a convenience outlet and one circuit to power my 150k BTU Hayward gas heater. I know everything needs to have a disconnect. Does anyone have any pictures of their set ups? Any recommendations, as this is my first pool.
Above Ground Pool Electrical
- Thread starter Djmessina1
- Start date
You will need to ask your inspector how they view pools. Separate structures are only allowed 2 circuits from another structure. If you need more, you will need to run a sub panel. Most places view pools as separate structures
What about running the convenience outlet and the heater off of the second circuit and just have two? Heater only pulls about 2 amps for the ignition...
Welcome to TFP!!!That was my initial thought too, why put the heater on its own circuit? You could certainly get by with the 2 circuits. Although it would still be wise (if not required) to check with your local inspectors.
I would talk to the local building official but its generally best practices to put in a subpanel. If it has six or breakers it is the disconnect you need. A sub panel allows you to quickly kill everything if a problem arises.
I'm very interested in this thread as I will be doing the same shortly. Do you know how many amps the pump pulls? I have a light and an SWG...I will try to find the amp rating on those tonight.
"Start Up" amps are what you mostly need to be concerned with on a pump. Could fire up drawing 10 and then drop to 2 or so.
CJadamec
TFP Expert
I'm currently doing the installation of my first pool. Per the current NEC code book the pump and heater must be on GFCI protected circuits. They have changed the wording that allowed you to get away without using gfci on pumps and heaters even if they are wired for 220v. The short and quick of it is all equipment circuits need to be supplied by their own separate GFCI. If you run a sub panel, which I would recommend you do, the feeder size should be sized to handle 120% of the highest amp draw (ie your max pump amps) plus 100% rated load from your heater. This will likely put you at around 40amp 220v main feeder (remember with 220v dual pole breakers you don't add each leg, a 40 amp breaker is a 40 amp breaker anything over 40 amps on either side of the breaker will cause a trip). Depending on how long your wire run from panel to panel is will tell you what size wire you need. At a minimum you will need 8awg wire. Type NM wire (ie romex or standard house wire ) is not acceptable to run outside, and you cant run it in conduit. Direct burial wire also isn't expectable for pools per NEC code for pools because they require an insulated ground conductor which direct burial doesn't have. Now before I get flamed by a million people saying but I ran it and it's ok, this is the 2014 NEC code, not all states have adopted it and anything built prior didn't have to live up to it. This code only applies to new construction or major rework of the electrical system, and only if your local town or state has adopted the 2014 code.
My pump is rated at 15 amps, so that is most likely the start up draw and it will drop from there considerably with the slow speed option.
CJadamec
TFP Expert
Remember to size your wiring for the max amp draw on the motor name plate, wiring for a motor must be sized for max amp draw not expected running current.
So here is my plan, run 10/2 UF cable from my panel in the house x2, one for the pump motor and the other for the convenience outlet and heater. One run will go into a intermatic T101R timer then to the L520 plug for the pump motor. Second line will run to the convenience outlet, 2 gang, and then on to the heater direct wired. I would add two GFCI breakers to the panel in the house, one 20 amp for the pool motor and a 15 amp for the other run. Anything stand out to anyone as incorrect or should be done differently?
Do I need any sort of grounding rod out by the pump or will the ground from the main panel suffice?
CJadamec
TFP Expert
If you plan on having this inspected it probably wont pass because direct burial cable isn't suitable for this application. Code requires an insulated ground wire which UF cable doesn't have. If you aren't putting a subpanel outside you don't need an extra ground rod. 10/2 cable for the pump is good I would put it on a 30 amp breaker tho. 12/2 would be enough for your heater and outlet on a 20 amp breaker. GFCI breakers are quite large make sure you have enough room in your main panel to fit them. Also a 220v dual pole gfci breaker will run you between 60-100 dollars each depending on where you get them from. Zoro tools sells the seimens gfci breakers for 58 dollars with free shipping (I just got 2 for my new pool). So long as your runs aren't more that 100 feet I wouldn't worry about voltage drop too much with that size wiring.
I'm assuming your pump and heater are already hooked up to a bonding grid around your pool, bonding and grounding being two similar looking but very different things.
I'm assuming your pump and heater are already hooked up to a bonding grid around your pool, bonding and grounding being two similar looking but very different things.
In that case 10 gauge THHN cable in PVC Conduit, 1" or do I need larger? Everything will be 110v so no need for the 220v. If I run them direct from the main panel without a sub panel would I then need a ground?
Oh yes the heater and motor are hooked to the bonding grid, starts at the motor, around the entire pool 18 inches out 6 inches deep and attached at four points with split bolt connectors and then terminated at the heater.
CJadamec
TFP Expert
You can run (9) 10 gauge wires in 3/4" schd 40 pvc. If you are just running 2 110v circuits that would be 6 wires (3) 10 gauge and (3) 12 gauge. The 110v gfci breakers are still quite long compared to a standard breaker check your panel for free space to install them. Code states each circuit must have its own insulated ground wire of not less than 12 awg. It doesn't matter where circuit starts from.
What about a grounding rod to the pump or heater or is that accomplished with the insulated ground going to the panel in the house?
insulated ground wire should be in conduit from house to pump. The bonding wire goes to bolt in pool wall
CJadamec
TFP Expert
The insulated ground wire from your main panel takes care of the equipment grounding, you still need to attach the pump and the heater to the pool bonding grid which for an above ground pool in the US is a bare 8awg solid copper wire buried 3" deep in a continuous loop around the pool between 18- 36" from the pool wall. The pool frame will have a minimum of 4 connecting points. Things also to be connected to the bonding grid include, metal framed ladders, metal conduit or junction boxes near (don't remember the distance) the pool, pool pump, heater, a non corrosive metal insert to bond the water itself, and pool lights (there is a detailed list in the NEC code book). This is not the same thing as an equipment ground. The ground wire from the service panel shouldn't be connected to the bonding grid.
CJadamec
TFP Expert
your pump and heater will have separate connections for the ground wire and bonding wire.
Instead of running a GFCI breaker from the panel for the convenience outlet can I substitute that one for a GFCI outlet and save a few bucks or is it better just to use the GFCI Breaker? This is only for the convenience outlet not the pump...
I used a GFCI outlet which also supplies the power to my pool light.
But, you need to check what the code allows in your area.
But, you need to check what the code allows in your area.