Clear water, what next?

Apr 23, 2016
5
Dittmer, MO
First of all thanks so much to whoever developed this site. I have read an overwhelming amount of information, that has been confusing, but very helpful. This is our first summer in a new house with an awesome pool inground pool. I removed the cover on Monday. The pool had been closed for 2 years. I was nervous about what I would find. To my amazement overall it wasn't in bad shape. Minimal leaves, minimal algae, a fair amount of sludge on the bottom. I followed all opening instructions that I have been suggested.

To be honest I didn't do any water testing as I already knew I would need to SLAM to get rid of the algae and dumped 10 gallons of 8.25% bleach into the water, brushed everything continuously for days on end, continuously backwashed and rinsed the filter. All vacuuming has been done and now today, Sunday, I have clear water, solid running filter and pump.

I purchased an hth test kit from Wal-Mart( I have since taken it back), also purchased more bleach, baking soda, borax, and salt, but did test CYA level prior to going to the pool store as I didn't find any household products on here that will raise CYA and mine is nonexistent as of now. I went to the pool store yesterday for a new skimmer basket as ours was in pretty bad shape also purchased their test kit. I was going to ask a few questions while there but they were extremely busy and only 1 person was working. I felt like I was at Wal-Mart at 1 a.m. Anyone that has done that before knows what I mean. Never enough lanes open for the mass of people that are checking out. The one thing I did get to ask her was what to put in the water since I have no CYA reading, and of course she suggested a high priced product that they had in stock. I didn't purchase it because I first wanted to get a consensus from the experts on what would be the best thing to get.

This morning I tested the water and here's what I came up with:

FC-0
PH-7.5
TA-120
CH-90
CYA-0?

I added 2 cups of bleach (per pool math), now where do I go from here? If I'm understanding everything correctly my PH and TA are good. What about the rest? Also right now my SWG is showing that it is not producing chlorine, so should I add salt to the water? Thanks in advance for all your help. :)
 
Does not sound like you actually followed the SLAM process until you passed the 3 criteria to stop. How could you without a recommended test kit?

Sounds like a pool store dump and pray.
 
I thought the test kit that I bought, while not the same as the one everyone else is using, would work. Thought I was buying the one that I read about in the test kit comparison section, there were 4 compared. I don't usually shop online so I thought this would be an okay alternative. :confused:
What does pool store dump and pray mean? I DO want to make sure the water is safe to be in. Luckily God is always on my side in the prayer realm. As far as dumping that is why I have stopped lurking, no more dumping, and finally started asking questions. I don't want to just dump a bunch of stuff in the water. To date the only thing I have put in it is bleach, so moving forward I want to get it right that's why I'm here. As I said in my initial post though I am a bit overwhelmed with all of the information.

Jblizzle are you saying the only way I will get good information is if I have a TF-100 test kit?
 
Yes, or the Taylor k2006. Those are the only kits that test for everything and include the required FAS-DPD chlorine test.

By dump and pray. I meant that you seemed to just be dumping in a bunch of chemicals and hoping they will help.

It is a bit overwhelming getting started, but we can certainly help. Just keep asking questions.

The test kit you got could be showing 0 FC while in reality it could be very high.
 
No, he's saying that you need the right tests to determine both higher levels of chlorine (that you have during a SLAM) and a CYA test. In your case I'd toss out that the Taylor's K-1766 Salt level test kit is a worthwhile addition. Can you tell us which kit you bought and what all it tests for?

You need a FAS-DPD test for that chlorine. You can buy it individually at TFTestkits.net or online elsewhere, but they're kind of hard to come by in the local stores (for some odd reason???).
 
Okay. Heard. So in the meantime, until I am able to order one of those kits, just keep brushing and filtering?

- - - Updated - - -

Test kit: Leslie's Manufactured for Leslie's by Taylor Technologies Inc.

Total Poolcare DPD test kit
Tests for:
Free and Total Chlorine or Bromine
Ph
Acid and Base Demand
Total Alkalinity
Calcium Hardness
Cyanuric Acid
 

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The FAS-DPD test gives you an exact number for the FC (up to 50ppm) as well as the amount of contaminates (CCs) in the water that you have to deal with. It is a drop based test, not a color matching thing. If you've got problems with your water you will *want* this test! Below is the link to the exact test you can add to your purchased kit to make it the 2006 Taylor's kit:

TFTestkits.net

The kit you have only shows chlorine up to 5ppm. (FIVE!? I use that test just to see *if* there is chlorine, not how much)

Oh yeah here is the Salt Test kit too: TFTestkits.net
 
Okay. Heard. So in the meantime, until I am able to order one of those kits, just keep brushing and filtering?


Test kit: Leslie's Manufactured for Leslie's by Taylor Technologies Inc.

Total Poolcare DPD test kit
Tests for:
Free and Total Chlorine or Bromine
Ph
Acid and Base Demand
Total Alkalinity
Calcium Hardness
Cyanuric Acid

If it looks like the kit below (does not include powder and a blue scoop), you can buy the FAS/DPD solo test ($26) and you'll have the equivalent of the Taylor K-2006. I'd order some CYA reagent as well, it goes fast in the Taylor/Leslies kits.

attachment.php


DPD Test = Drop based w/ the color comparator. It caps at 5 FC so it is not a suitable test for slamming.
FAS/DPD Test = Drops + Powder based. This allows you to test for high FC levels and is overall more accurate - this is what you need to slam.
 
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