PH help

[Sp4]

When should I retest the water?

 

[Texas Splash]

You can test your CYA in a couple days and it should be very close to what you projected. Definitely should be fully registered in a few days.

 

[pooldv]

A day or two after the CYA is dissolved from the sock. Different products dissolve at different rates. Squeezing the sock a few times a day will help it dissolve faster. Here is a handy summary of pool chemicals, what they are, what they do and how to add them to your pool, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

 

[Sp4]

I have to say I was excited to test my pool to see just were we were! I need to adjust my signature page to include specifics for my pool for you guys that are so helpful! I have a 30000 IG SWG pentair it was set st 100% crystal clear water...here are my results
FC 8
CC 0
TC 8
Ph 7.5
TA 80
CYA 50
And for my calcium it didn't turn red just a very light pink, I added several drops and it never turned blue????
I did just add all my chemicals on Wed night! Thanks in advance?

 

[Texas Splash]

Those numbers look pretty good, although your CYA should be a minimum of 70 for an SWG pool. As for your CH ... turning red/pink after adding the 3 drops of R-0011 simply means you have calcium in the water just like most all of us. But it should eventually turn blue when adding the R-0012. It's possible you have a very high calcium content. Still, here are a couple notes from the extended test kit instructions that may help:

The sample may turn purple during the test, or go to blue for a moment and then turn back to red/pink. This is called a "fading endpoint" and is caused by interference from metal ions. If this happens, do the test again, but this time add five drops of R-0012 before adding any R-0010 or R-0011L. Remember to count the initial five drops in the total.
In extreme cases, a fading endpoint may occur even when adding five drops of R-0012 at the start. If that happens, mix pool water with an equal quantity of distilled water, test that, and then multiply the result by two.

Finally, try testing your tap/fill water for CH. See what you get from there.

 

[Sp4]

So go ahead and add some more stabilizer?? And how much...thanks!!

 

[pooldv]

Yes, use Poolmath to calculate how much to add. Put 50 in Now and 70 in Target. Link is straight up there ^^^

Have you heard of the sock method? Here is how to add it, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

 

[Sp4]

I have not yet figured that out...I come up with different numbers but not sure why!

 

[pooldv]

Dang it! Here is a handy instruction sheet, Pool School - PoolMath

 

[Sp4]

Thank you! I calculated 5# our numbers didn't match last time just checking!

 

[moreira85]

Im currently raising my cya currently at 30 since ill b going to salt water when it gets warmer. Mine called for 5 lbs too but i add only about 2 or 3 lbs at a time because last thing i want is to over on cya then have to drain some water.

 

[Sp4]

New set of results...I have done great all summer...pool is clear just wanted a double check
Ph 7.8
fc 11.5
Ch 250
Ta 100
Cya 80
Says to add 29 oz muratic acid and 44 oz calcium chloride
Is the FC too high??

 

[Mr Bruce]

First, can you add your pool details to your signature? SWG, plaster or vinyl liner, pump type, etc.

7.8 pH is on the high end of "ok". If it is always rising you should bump it down. If it stays around 7.8 that's ok, just anytime it gets slightly "purpler" than 7.8 time to bump it down again.


edit: Just read up thread, with a SWG you will always be fighting rising pH, so you should go ahead and bump it down.

This is why pool details in sigs are important

And yeah, you could back off your generating time, target is 6. It's not too high to swim, but you'll wear out your cell faster keeping it that high.

 

[Sp4]

Thanks!

 

[Sp4]

Hopefully that is fixed now thank you!