Are all these 10+ chemicals really neccessary?

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Sjde

Well-known member
Apr 29, 2016
317
Denver CO
Pool Size
375
We have never had a hot tub and just installed one in our vacation rental 1 1/2 hours away. Our cleaner will maintain (but not repair) it. He does other's hot tubs and will check it twice a week for us.

I tried to educate myself and there's SO much to know and very confusing!

I found a maintenance schedule online and when I showed it to him he said no one does it that way . Unless they are retired. It showed a certain order to test and add chemicals, and said to wait 30 minutes in-between each!

I went to Amazon and found about 10 products and am wondering if we need them all. Some we got in our starter kit and some we didn't. Some that we didn't get I think we do need. And some that we did get seem not that important.

This is the list:

Chlorine -necessary of course (and test strips)
Spa Frog-slow release chlorine--yes
Calcium booster--he says it's not needed
Defoamer-yes (but we didn't get in our kit so does manufacturer not think it's important?)
Spa Up and Spa Down-yes (not in our kit)
Natural Chemistry Spa Perfect/Spa enzyme (for water rings and odors)- in our kit , but is it necessary?
Clarifier- Leisure Time Spa Bright
Oxy Shock without Chlorine-yes
Leisure Time Spa Defender for stains, scale and rust-in our kit

303 Protectant to clean cover
Power Soak to clean filter monthly
TDS test strips to tell when to change the water
Flush product to add before draining

Our guy told me clarifier and shocker are the same. Then why does Amazon have 2 separate products? I am starting to doubt him now.

Any help will be much appreciated!
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

You need 2 or 3 chemicals to maintain a hot tub. Chlorine, stabilizer, and acid to lower the pH. That is basically all.

I would not buy anything on that list except the first ... and I would get a real test kit and not strips.

Honestly, "your guy" really does not sound like he knows what he is talking about. Clarifier and shocker (whatever that is) are certainly not the same.

Read this: How do I use Chlorine in my Spa (or pool)?)
 
How is a test kit different than a 6-in-1 test strip?

I read that these should be tested--ph, alkalinity, chlorine, bromine (I'm assuming one or the other , depending on which you use),calcium hardness and toral hardness. Looking on Amazon, I could find none that do it all-- either calcium hardness or total hardness but not both.

Both total and free chlorine need to be checked?

- - - Updated - - -

This is about shocking. I wasn't able to do an attachment--

What is Shock Treatment?
Shocking a hot tub spa is the application of an ample dose of chlorine (sodium dichlor) or non-chlorine shock (potassium monopersulfate or MPS). One purpose of this treatment is to break-down organic waste contaminants which cause odor and cloudy water. After treatment, water quality and clarity is often completely restored.
If irritating chloramines are present, shocking also converts them back to active chlorine.
Regardless of which sanitizer system you use, periodic shocking is essential for clear, clean hot tub water. It will also allow your sanitizer to perform at peak efficiency.

Non-Chlorine Shock - regular use for maintenance
Non-chlorine shock is monopersulfate compound, often called MPS for short. It is an oxygen-based shock, preferred by many because it has little or no odor.
Although not classified as a sanitizer, non-chlorine shock does oxidize contaminants and greatly improves water quality and clarity.

Dichlor Shock - occasional use to clear up problems
Dichlor shock is a form of chlorine often called sodium dichlor. Technically it's both a sanitizer and a shock.
It is recommended for use as a startup shock, and also for occasional use to correct water problems quickly
Shocking with dichlor (sometimes referred to as superchlorination) is the fastest and easiest way to clear up many water problems such as musty odor, cloudiness, slimy water, algae, etc. Note: dichlor should always be pre-dissolved in a plastic bucket of water prior to addition to spa, to avoid possible damage to acrylic surfaces or vinyl liners.

When to Shock
It is a good practice to shock with dichlor when you refill your spa. After that, regular maintenance can normally be accomplished with non-chlorine shock.
Other times for shock treatment would include: prior to, or just after a party or other period of heavy use, when the spa has been neglected, or when restarting a spa that has not been used for some time. Whenever your regular dosage of non-chlorine shock seems to need an extra boost, dichlor will usually provide it and clear up problems.
 
Thanks, I'll check it out.
Do you think though, that more care may need to be taken when the spa is in a vacation rental (where you don't know what people are doing in it) vs at your home?
 
A little reading here and your eyes will be opened to all the misinformation out there.

No reason to quote other methods, we do things a simpler and cheaper way that is based on the science and chemistry ... not trying to make a profit. In fact, we are now listed as a non-profit organization ;)
 
Well the first part was great but that 2nd part-sanitation-unfortunately won't work for us. The hot tub has been in a week and our pool guy will only be checking twice a week (and at $250/mo at that!) :-(
 

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You might want to consider getting an SWG for it, there are some retrofit models designed for hot tubs, I personally use one called the Saltron Mini, works great, and when the tub gets little use it is stable enough to run several weeks without testing (not that I tend to do that). I also have a Del Ozonator in addition to the SWG.
 
I feel your pain @Sjde! I was truly confused by the direction the spa store people gave me but once I found TFP and read all the articles in PoolSchool, I now have a better understanding and have been practicing the TFP methods for six months now and my water has never been more clear and balanced.

Best regards and have fun learning to better maintain your pool/spa.

LakeLizard
 
Just curious about the different optimal levels I'm seeing on different sites. You say, for instance, that TA should be 50, while on another site I saw 80-120 PPM. That's not even close!
Free chlorine 3-6, another place said 1.5-3 PPM.
 
For a rental I would also recommend a salt water generator, I used an inline but you need an always on circulation motor, you could get the drop in and it would work great.. .

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Lower TA in a spa means the pH will not rise as fast.

Our FC levels are a function of the stabilizer (CYA) level in the water which buffers the chlorine. 99% of other information posted does not take the CYA level into account and that is why the list lower FC levels (which will not sanitize if there is CYA in the water).

Have you discovered Pool School yet? Start with this:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
 
I have a salt water generator in my hot tub, virtually no maintenance, rental or not, that's all I would use. At $250 a month to check your hot tub, I think I need to change businesses!!


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This is the system that uses salt water instead of chlorine? I always heard there was more maintenance and trouble with those. And that if I didn't want to be held liable for guest's hot tub acquired infections I should stick with chlorine!
 

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