New AG Pool installed Monday...

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Tierceron said:
By Jove, I've got it. I spent the last couple of days testing and re-testing and getting the proper amounts of Stabilizer and Bleach in my pool and these are my numbers now..

FC 2.5
CC 1.0
TC 3.5
pH 7.2
T/A 100
CH Not applicable
CYA 35

The reason I was having so much trouble with the pool caculator (I'm so literal) is that it said Not Set Up when I first opened it which I took to mean that it would not calculate an initial pool set up, only after you put in your first chemicals or agents could you use it. Duh! :hammer: Saturday night, I was really on the run. I thank you Frustratedpoolmom for talking me off my ledge.

I'm in New England so it's been colder here than usual so we are no where near ready for swimming. That means I'll have plenty of time to make sure I've got the program down before anyone gets in the water. Thanks all for your help, Especially frustratedpoolmom and dmanb2b.

Tierceron
Click to expand...

Well good for you, glad you are feeling more confident.

Are you confident of the FC and CC numbers? If so, then please read about How to Shock your Pool in Pool School. You always want your CC to be .5 or less, anytime it is higher than that you have to shock your pool.

Remember, never let the FC drop below your minimum, or you risk and algae outbreak. You need to add enough chlorine daily to ensure this. :wink:

If you are unsure what to do next just ask. :goodjob:
 
Tier...your very welcome. Good job on getting us those water test results...without those we are flying blind 8) when trying to assist. I agree with frustratedpoolmom, your definately going to want to bring your FC to schock level to deal with the CC's if the number you posted is accurate. Sorry I missed your recent questions, but as you can tell you are in good hands.
 
I have calculated what I need to bring the pool chlorine up to shock level. How long do I need to keep it at this level?

I am also wondering, when can I turn off my pump? I have seen posts that tell to run the pump all day for certain events which makes me think that there is a point in which you don't have to run it continually.

I am so happy to have my pool 'agents' registering on the TF-100 kit tests, for days I would have practically zero chlorine, so that's why I'm feeling like I've got it. I actually have levels to adjust!! :-D

Tierceron
 
Tierceron said:
I have calculated what I need to bring the pool chlorine up to shock level. How long do I need to keep it at this level?

I am also wondering, when can I turn off my pump? I have seen posts that tell to run the pump all day for certain events which makes me think that there is a point in which you don't have to run it continually.

I am so happy to have my pool 'agents' registering on the TF-100 kit tests, for days I would have practically zero chlorine, so that's why I'm feeling like I've got it. I actually have levels to adjust!! :-D

Tierceron
Click to expand...

Keep shocking until:

You lose 1ppm or less of FC OVERNIGHT;
Your CC is .5 or less;
Your water is clear.

When you are dealing with clearing algae, you do want to run it 24/7 thru the defeating algae process. In your case, I would go ahead and keep running it while you shock, then when your FC is holding and your CC is down, you can reduce the run time. You can keep it off at night for now but run it during the day, to try and prevent any FC 'dead spots'. Then you can determine your normal run time and resume it when the water is all balanced. Is your pump a 2 speed? Do you have a normal run time in mind?
 
Weds. Night.
Just some quick tests for tonight to see where I'm at
Here are my levels..

FC 17
CC Not tested
TC 17+
pH 7.5
T/A 80
CYA 50
Temp. 61 Brrrr!

I have added 96oz of Bleach to bring my level of FC to 20 to coincide with the CYA of 50. Right?

I am burning through the CYA R-0013 from my test kit. I'll have to order double for future use.

Do most people use the automatic pool vacs? I mean the ones that cruise around the pool floor attached to the skimmer vs the Manual hooked to a pole?
 
Oh Yeah, My pump is a single speed. With no Off switch so I have to unplug it to make it stop, I'll have to figure out a way to rectify this. I also feel like the pump and filter are too close to the pool wall, I want to move it back a bit.

I have seen on another post that some one is running their pool from 8am to about 7pm, I was thinking about doing the same as long it won't adversely affect my pool.

And I found this random box in my garage that had a bunch of small pool stuff in it, including a CD for my computer about how to care for my pool and pump and filter, so that's really helpful. I wish I would have found that a week ago. That's how I know the temp of my pool because there was a little floaty thermometer in there :goodjob:

Tierceron
 
I use a regular vac hose attached to the skimmer.

Numbers look good, go for that pump run time, you can always reduce it later if you feel it's still too much. Consider a timer, then you won't have to unplug.

Now that your CYA is in range, you shouldn't have to test it for awhile. Since you have a cartridge, it won't drop as qauickly as it would if you had a sand filter that gets backwashed. It should be stable for at least a month or two, barring any unforeseen circumstances. Splashout or rain dilution/draining will change it but it would take ALOT to lower it substantially. :wink:
 
Good Morning...

Here are my Thurs. Morning Numbers

FC 18.5
CC .5
TC 19
pH 7.8
T/A 110
CH NA
CYA 60
Temp 61

So now that my CC is down to .5 but I never reached 20ppm in FC should I still try for 20ppm? actually now that my CYA is up to 60 should I try for 24ppm?

If the shock is complete or done it's job, do I just wait for the cholorine to dissapate, or do I need to lower it somehow? I don't have any swimming in the pool as of yet.

Thanks,

Tierceron
 
Wow this thread has a lot of great info, rare for all the big guns to contribute to a newbie and not just refer them to the Pool School.
Although each new pool owner test results will differ, we all have been confused with what the local pool store says and what really needs to happen, all new pool owners need to read this thread.
 

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I do not know how to do the overnight test. Would you tell me? I really appreciate all the help and patience, from the last posted reply I'm feeling a little "wayne's world" I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy!

I've been a bit distracted today, my grocery day, did I ever tell you we are a family of 6? I also had to buy a new car (mini-van really) this week and today I had to pick-up the check from the bank and get the new car from the Dealer :blah: so, I didn't do too much else to the pool after this morning's test, I hope that won't set me back to far.


On a separate note:
I tried to order the CYA fluid that the TF Test kit uses and the PayPal part of the order form was all screwed up, kept telling me that the order was already paid for, but wasn't. Well I sent and e:mail off to [email protected] and they were so nice and helpful and just great. I got the refills I needed. So
just wanted to relate what great service the TFTest Kit operation has. Nice to have your e:mail responed to promptly and your problem fixed quickly.

Tierceron
 
Overnight test: Measure your FC level in the evening at least 30 minutes after the final chemical addition for the night. Measure the FC level again as early as practical the next morning, before adding any chemicals. If your FC level remained the same, or only dropped by a very small amount, then all of the algae is dead.
 
Test your water at night when the sun goes down. Let's say it's 17ppm. In the morning, before the sun come up, go out and check your water again! If it reads 16-17ppm, you can be done shocking and you can let the chlorine go down to the minimum range in regards to your CYA level.

If your Chlorine levels are 15 ppm in the morning, you'll still need to shock.

This is only an example. :wink:
 
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