New pool owner, old dog learning new tricks.

[WMS]

Just want to say Hi! I REALLY LIKE THIS SITE! I am glade there is all the support needed out there to make owning a pool easier than asking a store clerk about things that they don't know and making trips unneeded.
Great Idea putting all this at hand. I been a pool owner for 25 years but it was simpler having the above ground pool, because of having less items and months of operation. Had a pool of our dreams built, it was a little bit of a pain going though the process but just like your advise about construction it's pretty much right on. Only advise would be to finance some of it so you can hold contractor accountable. I would find that they want some money up front just to get started. I would do 50/50 so before they paid you make sure it's up to standard. I had a list of issues that they took care of but still have a few that are still not completed. Have it in writing too. They use a lot of subcontractors and some are good and some not, and some time it took weeks to get them back to do over or repair or replace things done wrong. I am happy with the pool. Best advise is to plan your budget and make the best of it. There are so many things to consider, like building a house. Now that its done its pool care, and best practice skills. Only thing is everyone has different ways & methods, budgets to make it work. Also new technology out there, like solar products. I have a screen room so not as much dirt gets in. It sure helps.

I have one question to some of these new products on the market? but they may not be as good or worth it. Things like solar Ionizer, solar filter & shimmer. Does having a solar filter worth it to cut your pump run time down saving the utility cost? Does the Ionizer cut out buying shock? Skimmer should help if you get leaves or other dirt in the pool. Next are things saving on maintenance cost, Chemicals, or doing it like BBB, I have some high and equipment and want it to last, like the finish, Its pricey to replace and don't want to void warranty. I will be asking my pool company about that.. Well thanks for the warm welcome here. Plan to help when I can.

Thank you,
WMS

 

[JVTrain]

Welcome aboard!

I see that building a pool can be quite an experience from all the build threads here on TFP. Glad you're able to enjoy it now that it's been finished!

I'm not familiar with a solar filter/skimmer or a solar ionizer. In general here on TFP, you'll find we're rather skeptical about "THE BEST NEW THING!!!" products as they tend to over-promise and under-deliver as a rule. Most of the time they are there to remove money from your pocket book and place it in the pool store/pool builder/distributor/manufacturer's pocket and give little in the way of value.

TFP methods are based on reliable, home-based testing. Relying on pool store testing is both inconvenient and usually inaccurate, designed to again... get you in the pool store and sell you products that you may not need. Our methods are also designed to only put into your pool what it needs to be clear and sanitized properly. That being said, pools do no routinely need to be "shocked" and using powdered shocks will inevitably cause long term problems for your pool, as will all solid forms of chlorine such as trichlor pucks. Being in Florida, you might get away with using solid forms of chlorine like dichlor and trichlor for longer periods because you get so much rainfall, which forces dilution of the CYA that's added to your pool each time you use them.

If you have specific testing or chemical levels that must be done to maintain your warranty, those would be your first priority to maintain. Doing that within the TFP recommended methods is certainly possible. I've already gone on too long so... spend some time in Pool School here and ask questions as you go. Perhaps someone else will have more info on the products you mentioned!

 

[WMS]

Thanks, Its what I thought. I go though pool school soon with builder, they are taking care of it the last 30 days,
in less than 2 weeks they will turn it over to me. I plan to ask a lot of questions and video the lesson, so not to forget,
I been learning the ABCs here and other sites, It helps but many choices to pick from which can be helpful or as you said remove money from your pocket book or cause long term issues. I have learned to research everything, and than ask questions, then making my choice of options & finding the best deal and finally making the purchase. One question do you think doing the BBB way would void warranty? And are there risk in using that method. We do have the rain here but this year has not been the case so far. Knock on wood. I just bought a 2006 c kit & PH meter. So plan on testing about 2 time a week so long as it is clear & no issues.

Thanks again.

Thanks again,
WMS

 

[JVTrain]

BBB would certainly not void your warranty. You can maintain any levels that you want with TFP (formerly known as BBB) methods and usually that's what a builder would require to keep a warranty valid. The only problem you might run into is if the builder says, for example "FC must be maintained between 1 and 3 ppm" where if you have a CYA level of 60, TFP methods would dictate a 5 ppm FC minimum for a manually chlorinated pool, which is any pool without a stenner or salt water chlorine generator. An inline tablet chlorinator is not recommended for anything other than occasional or vacation use with TFP methods.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Pool builders sometimes get nervous when you say "bleach" but are perfectly fine with the term "liquid chlorine".... same thing but different verbage

Try to note what the pool builder puts in your pool and how much? It might be information needed down the road when you take over the care and feeding of this new amazing toy

 

[WMS]

Thanks again, the build was a process. Took over 8 months to build. One other note that I trusted them to have it done in 8 weeks, they said 6 to 8 weeks but I got the run around. So any newbie going to sign their contract make sure to have a end date, I checked all of my contractors with the BBB and the one I picked had a good rating, Later on mid Dec, I looked them up again and found some did have a complaint file with them. and they too took 8 months. I am glad I can use it now. It

I been watching my pool tech for the past 3 weeks. The first week he tested the water, they gave it a high dose of acid, and put 1 inch tabs in the skimmer. Week 2 test water

Service Profile	Pool Service week 2
Service Body	Main Pool
Primary Readings
Total Chlorine	0.5
pH **	9
Total Alkalinity **	50
Calcium Hardness **	250
Cyanuric Acid	30
Service Checklist
Brushed Pool	Yes
Emptied Pump Baskets	Yes
Emptied Skimmer Baskets	Yes
Skim/Net Surface	Yes

Week three test

Service Profile	Pool Service week 3
Service Body	Main Pool
Primary Readings
Total Chlorine	0.5
pH **	8
Total Alkalinity **	30
Calcium Hardness **	250
Cyanuric Acid	30
Service Checklist
Brushed Pool	Yes
Emptied Pump Baskets	Yes
Emptied Skimmer Baskets	Yes
Skim/Net Surface	Yes

He installed my chlorinator added 2 pucks Turned on the Ozone unit. He should be back tomorrow as he is due out for the week, Plan to be there with him to take readings, and deliver some of the items that were in my contract like a test kit and pool vac pole head & hose. they already supplied a brush & jet pole accessory's and net, + a solar pill not sure how well those work but it was include so might try it. Also they have kept my heater off and kept water temp below 80. They said the finish needs 30 days to cure. and the high acid was to smooth out the Pebble tech finish. He had me bush it and I been doing that weekly. The elite floor is very nice. They say I won't need to vac it, but you never can say never. I still plan on buying a Kreepy vac but was wondering has anyone had good luck with the generic brands. Suction type.

Thanks

 

[YippeeSkippy]

We don't recommend ozone units. They still require chlorine and only the water in actual contact with the unit is being sanitized. That leaves a wholeeee lot of water with potential problems. You know, person to person transfer via water of that cold sore the guy in the deep end has going on... Ewwwwwwwww!

We also don't recommend folks put chlorine pucks in the skimmer because if the pump is off that water becomes very concentrated acidic. Then you turn the pump on and the pump and equipment get a serious blast of acid....not good for gaskets, etc.

I hope you're considering getting one of the 2 suggested test kits for your pool- either the Taylor's K-2006 (C version is larger) or the TF-100 (which I favor) both available via TFTestkits.net . The most important test for most folks is the FAS-DPD, which tests chlorine up to 50ppm. If you *ever* get algae that is going to be your best friend for testing.

We'd love to see pictures of your new pool

 

[WMS]

Here are two photos of the pool, Well my pool tech was out, he sneaked in and I caught him in the middle of testing, He said that for the warranty you have, you will have to have the water professionally tested weekly for warranty. To me that seems out of the norm, what do you do if your on vacation or not able to, guess I'll have to call my sales guy, He also said the only way you can test it yourself is to have your certification,for proof that its being taken care of. He also said never use liquid chlorine as it has Iron metals in it that can cause yellow stains, he said for Florida to only use the 3" sticks or pucks. He was using Taylor 2005c kit, He also said not to use copper Ions, he said keep with the basics of testing and you will be fine, PH, alkalinity level, chlorine and calcium hardness. So who can help me here? have any suggestions? Please I would like to here from others that may have ideas on what best?

Thanks

 

[kimkats]

LOVE your thread title! CUTE!

We would LOVE to see some pics of your pool and area!

I bet I know what test kit they will give you. If you are lucky it will at least be Taylor 2005 OR if you are REAL *insert sarcasm* you will get some test strips aka guess strips LOL

Let us know which one it is and we can get you set up with a good one.

Kim:cat: Mod note: I moved this thread to here for a better fit

 

[Texas Splash]

About the only thing I can understand him saying is to show proof of water testing simply to fulfill the plaster warranty - but that's strictly to relieve them from liability. Other than that, not much makes sense. Bleach (Sodium Hypochlorite) does not have metal in it, and is one of the purest forms of sanitation with only some minor residual sodium included. Testing with the K-2005 tells me he probably had no way to test FC higher than 5 (if needed), and stating to use pucks/tabs shows he is not aware of the increased risk of rising CYA from the stabilizer in each tablet. This is not uncommon to hear, and why we encourage everyone to read and understand the ABCs of Water Chemistry as listed on the Pool School page (link below). As for copper... stay away from it. Copper is also in many algaecides. You do not want to introduce any metals into your water. Stick with the TFP Recommended Chemicals (link below) and you won't have that problem. Hope that helps.

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

I would suggest getting one of the Recommended Test Kits, which will be better than what he uses, and then read/learn here and TFP and follow the methods we teach.

And if you must, take the water to the pool store for testing weekly, just don't believe anything they tell you and don't buy anything they try to sell you

FYI, in FL, you may be able to get buy using trichlor tablets since you likely get a lot of rain and have to remove water from the pool. You just need to monitor the CYA and make sure it does not climb too high.

 

[WMS]

Thanks again, makes perfect sense what you both are are telling me, He did say the trichlor tablets do not have a lot of stable built into them but it would have to monitored and to lower the level of CYA I would simply drain water from the pool and then add fresh water in. They are supplying me with a test kit, but I also have a new Taylor 2006C on order. I was thinking of the LaMotte 2056 ColorQ Pro 7 Digital Pool Water Test Kit


are these digital kits accurate as the 2006 ? I do like the read out, makes for a easy read. Just hate spending more $ on another kit. I am thinking they will be giving me a OTO kit, the one I have on order should be good. I also found on Aqua pure web site about liquid chlorine that,

• Liquid Chlorine.[FONT=Open Sans, sans-serif] - Whose yellow color is usually Iron. After continuous use for years the Iron build up can cause yellow to brown stains. [/FONT]
• [FONT=Open Sans, sans-serif][/FONT][FONT=Open Sans, sans-serif]​I am not sure how long that would take to develop but anyway that;s what their telling me. [/FONT]
• [FONT=Open Sans, sans-serif]Thanks again.[/FONT]

 

[WMS]

Also one more question, is it beneficial to install a flow meter? I found a [h=1]Flow Meter and Check Valve by Flo-vis that will enter change with my check valve.[/h]
Looking at lowering the run time some, they have it set for 12 hrs per day.

 

[Isaac-1]

We have had several people here that initially loved the LaMotte ColorQ, but found that sooner or later they tended to start having issues, usually getting oddball readings, there are several message threads on them you should be able to find them with the search option. The K-2006 or the TF-100 is really the best option out there. I wish the automated systems were better, but they do have issues, the ColorQ just does not seem reliable from the accounts I have read, the other big one that comes up is the Waterlink spin-lab also by LaMotte. Personally I think the SpinLab is probably the better of the 2, but if you watch the how to operate videos on you tube you will see that there are lots of potential for operator error, surface contamination, air bubbles getting into the test, etc. In addition there is the cost, the SpinLab unit starts at about $1,000, and more importantly the per test operating cost is about 3-4 times the reagent cost for the TF-100

 

[jblizzle]

A quick search will yield many threads about the color q and why we do not recommend or trust them. They have limitations, require calibration, and often just give bogus results.

That iron comment is just not true. No worries about the color.

I added that flow meter since I needed a check valve for solar anyway. It is interesting, but does not provide earth shattering insight.

You certainly do not need 12 hours of run time.

 

[WMS]

Also I should have test results from him today, I am not sure how he does it with out writing it down. He did turn down the chlorinator down to 2 and put in two sticks. Checked the PH and added a little acid. He said the FC was 3 and PH was 8, I didn't get the other readings, cause he said he would email them so I'll post that later what was sent.

I am also going to ask him next time he is out about the run time and also how long it takes to turn over the water one time. Is that enough for north FL.? I was thinking about 7 or 8 hrs should be good.

Thanks

 

[aeh0603]

This link may help you with determining pump run time Pool School - Determine Pump Run Time

 

[WMS]

Thanks I will be looking closer at figuring, calculating the run time. To save some energy, and to keep the pool clean. I also have a Vs pump. Is anyone using a solar pump convention. I found a contractor on the west coast that specializes in solar conversions so it mainly runs on solar power but can be switched back if needed. Saving utility cost

 

[JVTrain]

https://www.thecloroxcompany.com/downloads/msds/bleach/cloroxperformancebleach2015-08-24.pdf

The Clorox Company | Products | Ingredients Inside | Clorox High Efficiency Regular Bleach (Concentrated)

No iron listed on SDS or on the ingredients list. Notice all compounds on the ingredient list are Sodium XXXX not iron or copper or any other metal. Some brands of bleach of lesser quality could be contaminated with iron or other metals if the manufacturer is not using a purified water source during production but this would only be at very low contaminant levels, likely the same or less than solid chlorine products. To flatly state that all bleach or liquid chlorine contains iron which will build up in your pool is simply a lie. Can't sugar coat it.

 

[Isaac-1]

The topic of solar powered pool pumps comes up from time to time, in fact there was a thread on it this week. The short answer is it is not worth it on a pool pump only solar setup, but can be worth it with a whole house solar setup. Solar pool pumps use special DC motors, controllers, etc and cost way more than they should if they are going to payback their operating cost over their service life, plus you run into other various limitations.