Couple random questions-water and chemistry

[JohnInDayton]

First week of filled new pool here in SW Ohio. I can start doing my own chemistry next week, but builder has checked and adjusted to what they say is good. I am using SWG and plan to use TFP methods otherwise.

First maybe dumb question. We filled 2/3 up skimmer level, maybe 3/4, and now it's raining. Another inch and it will be level with top, and some rain is forecasted for 3 days, so likely to happen. Do I really need to do anything about it? If so exactly how do I handle it?

PB checked chemistry yesterday as below:
salt 3000- recommends 3400 per SWG guideline and said would come up when heats up-currently 64 degrees- I don't see how it would read higher when warmer other than if test should be done at room temp. He tested at 65-66 degrees.
FC- 5- recommend 3-5. I was going to shoot for 3-4 by adjusting SWG % output.
CYA 60- he recommended 60 but I was going to shoot for 70.
TA - recommended 100-200 but didn't measure. I will when I get a kit. I thought 60-80 was correct per pool school.
CH - didn't measure. I don't know what range to use for hybrid pool with epoxy over concrete bottom and fiberglass sides, I was going to use fiberglass range of 220-320. Agree? Or does epoxy coating change that?
pH 7.6 now. Pool school says 7.5-7.8. Pool company says 7.6-8 is fine and SWG will cause to push upward slowly but in his experience settles in his range and not to worry if stays below 8.

Should I use any values other than those in pool math/school for my particular pool? Thanks in advance.

John

 

[jblizzle]

Ideally you do not want the water spilling out. Did you have an overflow installed? Do you have a method to pump to waste at your equipment?


Remember, the required FC level is a function of your CYA according to the FC/CYA Chart.

It does not matter what the pool builder said the test results were, what are the results that YOU get when you test with one of the Recommended Test Kits?

If you have concrete bottom, then you should use the plaster levels. Lets see what your test results show.

If you keep the TA as high as they suggest, then you pH in not likely to settle in the 7s. This is why we recommend a lower TA.

 

[JohnInDayton]

I don't have and overflow and see no way to pump to waste from equipment pad. Guess I could get a small pump like a cover pump although I have a web safety cover. There's a few inches above skimmer to coping so it's not going to spill over coping if that's what you meant. What is main problem if water gets above summer for a couple days other than surface crud. There are two bottom drains if that matters.

Thanks I will use the plaster levels.

The pool builder does use a Taylor 2006C type kit for the on site measurements they did, but they are giving me a basic kit, so I'm ordering a TF-100 kit. I guess I'll know better when I get my own readings.

 

[Richard320]

If you're one of the lucky ones who has a hose spigot attached to the output of your pump, hook up a hose and trail it off somewhere and make room for the extra water. You really don't want water to find its way down behind the sidewalls.

If you get a submersible sump pump, you can set it in the skimmer and avoid messing with the cover.

 

[jblizzle]

You do not want much water to seep between the tile and coping and getting behind the tile. Being a new pool, this problem might be less likely than it could be in the future.

 

[JohnInDayton]

Sump pump sounds good, I'm sure it will get some use one way or another. Thanks.

 

[bmoreswim]

Yes, having an auxiliary pump is handy. I have an autocover so have a cover pump. One occasion is if your pump is out of commission for any reason. Just drop the pump in and direct the output into the pool. Just used it for just this reason on Monday.