Sta- rite pump motor

Apr 24, 2016
2
Atkinson nh
Any advice would help. I just opened my pool in NH. The motor is acting up, won't start some of the times, I have to hit the switch 4 or 5 times. Any suggestions on whether the motor should be replaced or rebuilt? The motor is a sta-rite 3hp model #p6e6h-209l thank you for any suggestions.
 

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Under the cap shown in the picture with the label is a start capacitor. A 3HP motor will draw a large current to get started. You may have to replace the capacitor as it would appear, without knowing more about the motor, that it is going bad. I would remove the capacitor and have it tested.
 
I'm friends with Barry and know about the pool too. It's a 20x40 free form gunite pool with floor cleaning system and separate spillover spa. There's a water feature (waterfall) and pond as well, but they are both on a different pump I believe, right Barry? The 3HP pump is about 40' from pool and probably about 18" above the pool. Not sure if those affect the size motor used. It is a beast though and I'm sure wastes a ton of electricity.

I can help with removing the capacitor to have it checked, if that's what it sounds like. But where the heck do you get that testing done?
 
Ok, we've taken a look at the capacitors. There are two. One for running most likely, and one for starting. How do you know for sure which is which? I'm assuming the larger one is for starting. Here's pictures of each, the black one is the one I think is the starting cap. We are getting more pictures of the silver one to see what the ratings on it are. I've never bought caps this large before, but I'm assuming the 189-225 MFD is the rating, and the 250VAC is the only other requirement.

Something like this to replace the black one? Do brands matter?

TEMCo Motor Start Capacitor SC0077 - 189-227 mfd 220-250 V VAC Volt uf Round HVAC AC Electric: Electric Fan Motors: Amazon.com: Industrial Scientific
 

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So looking for some pointers as Barry and I try to troubleshoot what is now a dead motor. He shut if off earlier today, and it would not turn back on at all. No clicking, humming, anything. He killed the power, swapped out the start cap, and still nothing. So whether the start cap was the issue or not is not clear, but the motor won't start. Any ideas? I plan on heading over and checking voltages and stuff at the motor connections first, but thought I'd throw this out there to see what others thing. The motor was running, and he shut it off to vacuum or something, and then it did not come back on when he tried to turn it back on. This is what we thought before, was the cap, as it would restart, but it would labor to do so a bit.

Thanks.
 
Capacitor branding doesn't matter you need to match Voltage and MFD (micro Farad) rating. You may have a burned out coil in the motor based on the "its not even humming anymore". Try rotating the motor by hand about a quarter of a turn and try starting it again. That may get you going for a short time but the motor is sounding like it may be dead. Pull the rear cover off the motor and look for any burnt or broken wires/connections. Give it a sniff test with your nose to see if it smells burnt. Maybe start looking into a lower HP and possibly more energy efficient pump.
 

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Well, we ran some tests tonight. It was actually the first time I checked out the motor. And you know how they say to fist look for the low hanging fruit/obvious stuff? Well I did just that, by first checking the electrical connections. Both hot legs were loose. One was so loose it actually probably had a 1/16" gap between the connector and the post. I'm thinking that expansion and contraction was causing that lug to lose connection, and the motor wouldn't run. I tightened them all up and it fired right up (although it was running on it's own again when I got there). So I'm thinking intermittent loose connection. Should be good now, but time will tell for sure.
 
Easy, obvious, and fixed is always a good day. The wires can definitely loosen on their own over time, its not a bad idea once every couple of years to check the tightness on those screws.
 
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