Algae and Filter is Offline

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Eric K.

Bronze Supporter
Apr 18, 2016
60
Hilo, HI
Aloha all. I was in the tail-end of slamming my pool when my sand filter sprang a leak and I had to turn it off. Until the parts arrive and I get out to fix it, I have it on Recirculate. The algae that was almost gone seems to be returning. I think. I have 5 3" tabs total between the 2 skimmers and waterfall return. Don't know if this is a good way to go. Tomorrow I will be putting socks on my skimmers and brushing and vacuuming to Waste. Is there anything else I should do (or not do) to reduce the spread of the algae until I can get my filter back online and filter out the algae in another slam? Or, is the filter offline not really an issue?
Thanks in advance. I've been on a steep learning curve since acquiring our cool pool.
 
I guess we'd have to ask you what process are you using to perform the SLAM because we almost never recommend using chlorine tabs in a pool on any given day, and never use them for increasing FC levels for a SLAM (link below). It might also help if you posted a full set of test numbers from your TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 test kit. Either of those kits are the foundation for proper pool care. But for the SLAM itself, just use regular liquid bleach from your grocery store. Use the Chlorine/CYA Chart link below to ensure your FC is at the proper SLAM/Shock level based on your current CYA to maintain the SLAM until you pass all 3 criteria. Hope this helps. Aloha. :)
 
Thank you all. This is my first battle with algae, and I started with pounds of dichlor. Then I came across this forum. In the process I realized the inadequacies of my test strips. A TF 100 has been ordered and I look forward to getting better readings on my levels. So, the best I have for now is what looks like Stabilizer of 100, Alka of 40, pH of 7.2, FC over 10, TC over 10, and Hardness of 250. I know there's probably not much you/I can do with these until I get my real test kit, except maybe bring the Alk up and halt the tabs to stop cya rise until I get my filter back on and slam again using the chart, math, bleach based on my new testing.
 
If that 100 stabilizer number is from a pool store, then it likely MUCH higher as many pool store test print outs show anything over 100 as 100 since this is the limit of the common CYA stabilizer turbidity test unless you use a diluted sample and multiple the results which increases inaccuracy.
 
I wouldn't worry about any levels right now other than simply keeping the FC elevated with just regular bleach. A pool your size, maybe one gallon per day is all for now. When the kit arrives, we'll have accuracy on our side. Have a nice day.
 
OK. I happen to have 2 gallons liquid chlorine at 10%. So, half gallon to go in? And, just to be sure, it is OK to do this with filter on Recirculate?
I should also take out the tabs to stop my CYA rise, right? (since I'm pouring in the SH)
Since my filter sprays from the Filter and Waste settings, I will be Recirc'ing until I get the new parts.
 
I didn't know if I should start a new thread with this issue. I can wrap up half the the original and say the filter is now back online! Yeah!! Thanks to folks here!

It was suggested I get a real test kit. I did, got my TF-100 and ran my first tests. I did the tests after sunset, but still light. Enough to watch the CYA black dot disappear and hold the pH box up to the cloudy sky and compare colors. I also see now I'll need to do another FC test in the early AM to check on the OCLT.

Also, I am assuming what I have is algae. Perhaps someone can confirm? This is what triggered my "shocking" experience and then finding this forum.

I don't see blotches or spots anywhere on the gunite surface, it's just that when I brush (1 or 2 times/day) there is a pea green "dust cloud" that forms ahead of the brush and floats around. I can fully brush in the morning, and see the surface change back to its nice blue, then go back in afternoon, not really notice any difference, then brush, and see that the dust cloud still forms, revealing the nicer blue surface. Is that algae? The water is cloudy, not green (except for this cloud I brush up), I can see the brush down to about 6', then it fades out. I absolutely cannot see the white drain top at 10' depth. Once I got the filter back on-line 2 days ago (long story), I backwashed/rinsed, and the issue with the cloud remains. When I backwashed, I waited a couple minutes for the milky discharge to turn nice and clear. The sand was changed a couple years back, and I looked in the top the other day and it looks like new sand to me.

My the numbers from my first test:

FC 15
CC 0
pH 7.8
TA 90
CH 225
CYA 90

I don't know how to take action on these if I don't know if that is algae or not, so not sure to go lower or higher on the FC. Is 0 CC an issue? I am dreading draining water to bring the CYA down, but know it is probably the best long term solution for much of this. Since coming across the crowd here, I've decided to switch to a BBB method. Last week I removed the multiple 3" pucks and switched to bleach.

Any thoughts on how best to proceed? Thanks!!
 

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Ok, just a couple of things off hand, first off the pH test is prone to false readings when FC is over 10 ppm, so don't do any pH adjustments until your FC is back down and you can get valid pH test results. Second you will want to redo the CYA test with better lighting (full sun to your back and view tube held in your shadow is best), it really does effect the result. Report back on your OCLT results and we can go from there.

Ike
 
I must have done the tests wrong.

My the numbers from my first test, from yesterday at dusk:

FC 15
CC 0
pH 7.8
TA 90
CH 225
CYA 90

This morning at 6:00am I tested FC and had 17. Something is wrong with my testing, right? I didn't add anything from last night to this morning. I'll do another CYA and FC a little later when the sun is out.

Also, did anyone read my post from last night, to confirm I do indeed have algae?
 
Ah yes Erik. The green dust is indicative of algae. I had that same problem when I first started. Sounds like a SLAM is definitely in order. Of course I probably don't need to remind you that at that high CYA level of 90, it requires a SLAM FC level of 35. That's up there in the nose-bleed section, but it can be done. You'll just go through a few more R-0871 drops. When testing that high, I would (at first) recommend using the 5ml sample to save on reagents. Later as you progress, you can switch to the 10 ml sample as follows:
5ml sample, multiply drop count by 1 (used to save on reagent; not as precise)
10ml sample, multiply drop count by .5 (standard method)

Your FC is still over 10, so you can't get a good pH reading right now. You might consider letting it drop to about 9 just long enough to confirm/adjust pH before increasing FC for the SLAM. Make sense? Let us know if you have any questions.
 
I don't know your cost of water, etc. but you might consider replacing about 1/3 of the water in your pool (1/4 if you have an SWG) to get the CYA down to a more manageable range, at 90 you are very close to the point that we consider nu-manageable in the long term, plus you likely have an algae issue.
 
I am preparing myself for a partial pool drain to get to a more manageable CYA level. Will aim for 50 to 60.
I dove down to look at drain, and don't know how the cover comes off. May need to rent a pump.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 
20160421_085038.jpg

20160421_105427.jpg

I want to make sure I have the steps correct before I start my partial drain over the weekend to lower my CYA.
First, the MD (10' deep) does not run to the filter, only out to the back of yard. I confirmed this with the previous owner. Only the two skimmers have suction.
Second, I cannot locate the tool the previous owner used to pop the MD cover off to remove the plug and I don't have my scuba tanks any longer, so plan to purchase a submersible from HD (Everbuilt 1/6 HP). I need to drain 10-15k (20-30%), and know it will take this pump a full day but that's OK.
Third, my pumping station (see pic) is BELOW the pool (in other pic, its roof is at back right in photo). You'll see just the one intake on left, it's red handle on close (this was taken last week...it's open now and filtering).
Fourth, the Hayward pump says it is "self-priming" which I don't know what that means but assume it is an advantage here.

OK, here's how I see the draining process going:
1. Vacuum to Waste to get out the debris I noticed when diving the murky depths to inspect the MD cover
2. Stop vacuuming before air gets into skimmer line
3. Turn off pump. Set filter to Close. Close intake before pump (that red handle).
4. Insert submersible and hose, turn on, wait until down 1/3 and remove
5. Fill back up. Open intake. Set to Filter. Power pool pump back on.

Am I missing anything??

- - - Updated - - -

Ike, do you think a 1/6 HP pump would be any quicker than siphoning? If no difference, then siphon it is!

- - - Updated - - -

Well, now that I'm thinking about it. I have two hoses here. That may equate to the submersible's flow rate. Thanks Ike!
 
I'm checking to see if I am doing this right...

After a partial drain and refill (a 2 day project), I got these numbers at 9:00am today:
FC 3
CC 0
pH 7.6
TA 70
CH 100
CYA 50

Water is still cloudy and I can see algae floating around so I began my SLAM. I had a FC target of 20 and put in 10 gallons bleach. Then brushed.

Readings at 10am:
FC 29 (oops, too much bleach)
CC .5

Readings at 11:20am:
FC 22.5
CC .5

Readings at 12n:
FC 18
CC 1.0

Added 1.5 gallons bleach.

Does this look OK? Should FC be dropping that fast? (it is sunny today).

Going to store now for more bleach.
 

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