Opening day

Well this is my first year with the pool and u had someone come out and show me the opening. I have my k 2006 kit and will use it for the first time today after I get home from work. A quick ck this morning and the pool is already clearer than yesterday after the slam. Nervous but excited at the same time. I know I need to bring the ph down right away as that was high over the winter with the new plaster. I actually had to add some acid in the winter and circulate to bring it down.


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Got your K-2006. Great! When you get home, please post some updated numbers with your new test kit. Remember, your pool is not algae free yet, and the SLAM has not been completed until you pass the 3 SLAM criteria listed on the SLAM page. That's very important, otherwise the cloudiness and algae will simply return, especially with a large swimmers load. Have a nice day.
 
Alright! So you know you need to SLAM (link below). First thing - pH must come down quickly. Do it in stages if you need to with acid. Use the Poolmath calculator to help. It's a great tool. You need the pH to be clearly in the lower 7s (7.2-7.5). Oh, what's your CYA? We must know that so we know what your SLAM/Shock FC level needs to be.
 
I did not get that, it started to storm and had to run in. I guess I will re check tomorrow. For now I did put 2 gal of acid and letting the pump work. Will ck in the am.


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On the FC/CC test, you can use the 10ml water sample and multiply your results by 0.5. The instructions are on the inner lid of your kit. It will reduce the amount of reagents you need to use. Do the CYA retest when it's nice and sunny out. Good luck!!!
 
Thanks guys, full test tomorrow. Will report results. Odd enough they shocked the pool at opening and turned my chlorinator up to 5. How was my fc so low? Did I do the math right? Two drops and it turned clear so I'm guessing it's 0.4?


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Ok new numbers

FC- .80 ppm 4 drops at 0.2ppm
CC- .2ppm 1 drop at 0.2ppm
Ph-above 8
Ta-70
Ca- 210
Cya-0 did not register dot was always visible.

Wow what does all this mean


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Vinny, I'm concerned about a couple things - ammonia and the method of testing FC. Here's what I'd like to confirm:
- Ammonia: Ammonia eats-up FC and stabilizer really fast. I mean REALLY fast. So make sure you have granlular stabilizer available and lots of bleach, then perform the following:
1. Begin a SLAM and dose FC up to SLAM level (FC of 10). If your CYA test is showing as zero (perhaps already converted to ammonia), use a SLAM/Shock FC of 10. Do not add additional CYA at this point.
2. Retest FC at 10-minute intervals.
a. If FC loss is greater than 50%, add FC to bring back up to SLAM level and continue retesting FC @ 10-minute intervals.
b. IF FC loss is 50% or less, add FC to bring back up to SLAM level. Go to Step 3.
3. If CYA is below 30 ppm, add enough CYA to bring level up to 30 ppm.
4. Continue SLAM as directed in the SLAM article until the SLAM Criteria of Done are met. Test as directed in the SLAM article - no longer need to test FC at 10 minute increments at this point.

If you have no ammonia, this will go fast and you'll be doing the SLAM. If you have ammonia, then the 10-min drill might take a couple hours. Stick with it!

- The testing: I find your FC results a bit odd (i.e. .80) We usually get FC results in simply whole numbers based on the number of drops used. Also, since you have the K-2006 test kit, those instructions may have the 25ml sample size. So do this instead: Use a 10ml sample, multiply the drop count by .5 (basically cut in half). That's our standard method of testing. SO if you have 10 drops to turn the tube from pink to clear, then your FC would be 5.

Let me know if you have any questions.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh, and BEFORE starting the SLAM, lower pH to 7.2-7.5! Almost forgot that one based on your last test results. :)
 
So do I still start the slam by adding shock? I'm so confused...lol. What do I need to buy at this point? I do have some shock left and acid.


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Sounds like perhaps a small testing learning curve. Curious, are you using a speed stir mixer? Just a basic rundown of the FC test:
- Fill tube to 10 ml mark
- add one heaping scoop of R-0870 powder and mix (should already be pink)
- Start swirling while adding R-0871 drops one at a time and count
- Once the water turn to clear, take the number of drops and divide by .5 (i.e. 20 drops = an FC of 10)

Does that help?
 
Once we know your FC is able to hold for a few minutes by passing the ammonia test above, you'll do two things:
- Add granular stabilizer for a CYA target of 30ppm
- Maintain an FC level of 12 using only regular liquid bleach (plain)

The acid will be used to lower pH to 7.2 - 7.5, can you can do that first.

You can get granular stabilizer from Wal-Mart, Home Depot, or Lowes in their pool section; or the pool store. But get the granules, they're cheaper. If you don't know how to add the granules to the water via the sock method let me know.

Pour regular bleach slowly near a return jet with the pump running.

- - - Updated - - -

2 drops means your FC is only 1. That's very low. So you'll need to add bleach (regular, generic is fine) to increase FC to 12.

- - - Updated - - -

Vinny, do you know how many gallons your pool is?
 
It is 20x40 free form with a 7.5 ft deep end and 3ft shallow. I'm guessing around 25-30k gal. So now do I add the bleach to bring it up?


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By estimating 30K, use the following with pump running:
- 50 ounces of muriatic acid to lower pH (wait about 10 minutes then retest to verify)
- 4 gallons of bleach for FC target of 12
- 120 ounces of granule stabilizer for CYA target of 30

Let's start from there.
 

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