Compool CVA-24 Valve Actuator Issue/Replacement

[DM2]

We just moved into our new house, which has a 25,000 gallon saltwater pool and Jacuzzi. The house, and pool, were built in 2012 / 2013.

I’m having trouble with the two (2), 3-way valve actuator:

1. They’ll move in one direction with a command from the controller, but won’t return to the correct position when programmed to do so.
2. When the valve is open (in one direction), the switch will return it to the closed position.
3. When the valve is in the closed position, the switch won’t move the valve in either direction.

Question:
Does this sound like a “Micro Switch” issue?​

The actuator says “CVA-24”. I’ve searched the forum and it seems that many of the repair parts are obsolete, which surprised me considering the pool isn’t that old. The actual valve has “Compool” on the housing cover. The valve it controls is a 3-way valve oriented 180°, so I believe the actual part number is a “CVA24T”

I’ve read several posts, stating that the Compool actuator is difficult to move manually, whereas the Intermetic is easier. I’m assuming the 3-way valve is built to some standard that would allow me to change the actuator brand from a Compool to Intermatic, or some other brand.

I’m apprehensive to tear into the CVA24T without having a full replacement actuator, and I’m apprehensive to buy something other than the original for fear the alternate model won’t attach to the 3-way valve properly.

Question:
​

1. 
   [*=1]Is the 3-way valve built to some standard that will allow another brand of actuator?
   [*=1]If you had your choice of actuators, which actuator is the most versatile?
   [*=1]Which brand of actuator seems to be the most reliable?

Thanks in advance for any input.
Dan Marr

 

[Killer95Stang]

Sounds like a micro switch issue. Buy replacements from digikey and replace them your self. Five minute fix and less than $10 for a few replacement sets.

 

[Pool Clown]

I'm not sure it is a micro switch issue...

The following is assuming you are talking about 3 way valves that control the pool/spa operation and not two way valves that would only open or close one waterway in the instance of say, a waterfall, or a cleaner that runs off the filter pump. While similar, i'm just referring to pool spa valve actuator operation.

Are both of these actuators having the same "problem"?
I'm a little fuzzy on your use of the terms.

" They’ll move in one direction with a command from the controller, but won’t return to the correct position when programmed to do so."

What are you saying there? "Command" from the valve controller? or the remote in the house? Same with "programmed"? Just looking for clarification to help you.

Also these...

When the valve is open (in one direction), the switch will return it to the closed position.

That may be normal.

When the valve is in the closed position, the switch won’t move the valve in either direction.

That wouldn't be normal, but if both are happening, it is a contradiction.

The micro switches are three position switches with the center position being power off to the valve actuator.
if the switch is in the "on 1" position and the actuator is not moving, switching to "on 2" will/should rotate the valve 180, or to its cam position. and vice versa. Typically you set and forget these once.

See, the valve actuator does not know the pool side from the spa side. That's why you are given the option to "orientate" the valve to your particular system (on1 or on2). So if the valves are in "pool" mode, and you push the spa button from the remote, both valves should begin to rotate to the spa side.

Does any of that make sense? or did i make it worse?

 

[DM2]

Are both of these actuators having the same "problem"?

Now I'm a little fuzzy...

What are you saying there? "Command" from the valve controller? or the remote in the house? Same with "programmed"?

I'm talking about the Jandy control panel, not the remote. What I mean by "programmed" is how the system is configured to operate on it's own.

Does any of that make sense? or did i make it worse?

I've been looking for a wiring diagram for the actuator, but I can't find one. If someone has one, i'd love a link. I was going to look at the diagram and use a volt meter to check the micro switches.
I may be that I don't have a good understanding how how to trouble shoot this. I figured if the switch was in the middle position, that was essentially "OFF". In the "on1" position the valve should move in one direction, and in the "on2" position it should move in the opposite direction. Is that a true statement?

 

[Pool Clown]

if the switch was in the middle position, that was essentially "OFF". In the "on1" position the valve should move in one direction, and in the "on2" position it should move in the opposite direction. Is that a true statement?

Yes and No. If you walk up to the actuator, and the position of the switch is "on 1", it is in it's #1 cam position, and will not move. If you then switch to "on 2", it will rotate to its #2 cam position, then stop. If you then flip the switch back to "on 1 ", it will rotate back to the position it was in (cam 1) when you walked up to it. If you are using the automation system, the valve actuator shouldn't be left in the off or center position.

 

[Killer95Stang]

I was talking about the two micro switches inside the case that are triggered by the cams. I was not talking about the three position switch located outside of the case. Do a Google images search for compool cva-24 and you will see the parts diagrams with the micro switches.

I'm telling you, I had the same symptoms you described in your first post. My actuators were still under warranty, but it was way easier to replace the $2.00 micro switch, over scheduling a tech to come over to fix it.

 

[DM2]

Do a Google images search for compool cva-24 and you will see the parts diagrams with the micro switches

I did, but it's still difficult to find the right micro switch without taking apart the actuator. I did find in these forums the correct part number. The part is a Omron SS-5T. The other post in the forum suggested going to Digikey, but our company has an account with Allied Electronics, which has this part number assigned as 70175378 (http://www.alliedelec.com/omron-electronic-components-ss-5t/70175378/). The part will cost me $1.23 (only b e cause we by a lot of parts from Allied, otherwise $1.55).

I'm going to get into the unit today (been waiting for it to quit raining here in Houston).

 

[gary300]

When you install the micro switches, do not attempt to bend the leads. I have found that this stress will cause an early failure of the switch. You can cut the center lead off if you want. Put silicone lube on the seal of the actuator shaft and also the long gasket that goes between the top and bottom covers to keep water out. I have kept a pair of CVA-24 actuators going for over 22 years now by replacing the micro switches when needed and keeping the o-rings lubricated. I have also soldered all the internal connections for reliability. Good luck!

 

[DM2]

So I've been able to get back into this and found the following issues:

1. The Spa Valve Actuator had a bad Miroswitch so I've order replacement switches for both the spa actuator and the pool actuator (4 total). The shipping cost more than the parts. I'm going to replace all switches as I notice several contacts had high resistance.
2. The Pool valve Actuator was leaking water into the cover of the actuator, so the 3-Postion switch was sitting in water. I pulled the switch out of the housing and exercised the switch. The valve moves with the actuation of the switch the way is should. In the process I discovered the o-ring in the cover, where valve post passes through the housing, was broken.

I still have the o-ring (in 2 pieces), and googled for it's specifications (ID, Thickness, Part Number, etc.) but haven't found any information on it. I'm going to bring it into work this week and go by some places that carry o-rings to see if they can match the o-ring.

Question:
Anyone have the spec's on the o-ring?

 

[Coquitt Steve]

I've had this issue in the past, replaced the micro switches but still had an intermittent problem, usually just in one direction. Took a close look at the 3 position switch at the bottom. It has several wires that plug into the bottom and one of these had fallen almost off, hence the intermittent issue. I pushed all the plugs back up so they were tight and it cleared up all my issues. Probably never needed to change the micro switch.

 

[plsbcheap]

I have two of these same actuators. I took one off last year to replace the 3 way Jandy and never put it back on. NOW i tried and the motor is not lined up where I can install it and when tried to flip the switch on manually (to get the gears to move so they line up) the motor won't go in either direction. Is this likely a micro switch issue too? Coquitt Steve I will also open it up and look at the wires. Good info. If everything is fine with the wiring etc. is it worth replacing the micro switches first before moving to something else? (and there are two in each actuator?) Where is the best place to order them these days? Thanks,
PLSBCHEAP

 

[plsbcheap]

I have two of these same actuators. I took one off last year to replace the 3 way Jandy and never put it back on. NOW i tried and the motor is not lined up where I can install it and when tried to flip the switch on manually (to get the gears to move so they line up) the motor won't go in either direction. Is this likely a micro switch issue too? Coquitt Steve I will also open it up and look at the wires. Good info. If everything is fine with the wiring etc. is it worth replacing the micro switches first before moving to something else? (and there are two in each actuator?) Where is the best place to order them these days? Thanks,
PLSBCHEAP

Well.... I didn't get any replies or help with this one so I ordered switches from Digi Key, they had fast shipping and the install was super easy. Works like a charm. The only think I have noticed (so it seems) the the actuator does not do an exact 180 turn as it once did. It seems like it is about an eighth 1/8 inch from fully closing the valve off when in spa mode. When I take off the actuator I can turn the valve just a little bit to fully seal. Not sure if there is an adjustment for the cam or where the cam hits the switch to stop?