Swamp.

[FP2]

Hi,
Ok, my motor is reinstalled, the pump, filter, everything is working wonderfully! I do need to buy some lube for the pump basket lid O-RING & filter o ring.

** unfortunately, 2days ago, I dumped in 6# of shock - dichlor I believe - before testing the water... I actually have outdated test (2014) strips, no fancy test kit.

RECENT HISTORY--I ran the pool 1st evening but turned it off at night because I was concerned it may need to be back washed in the night & I didn't want to cause any problems with the filter, it ran all day yesterday, again turning it off at night. Yesterday I backwashed it two times. This morning I backwashed it again & it's running beautifully. The water that I see in the filter basket is clear.
** however the pool water which seemed like it was clearing up - - is still green and still murky. But a lighter shade of green maybe? Certainly, the algae that I can visually see does not look white or gray.

I started reading all the stuff in the pool school section, trying to make my way through it as I can - -
just tested the water - -
CURRENT TEST READ
pH 6.8-7.2
FC 0
CYA 0

?where did all the chlorine go that was in the shock? Is it because the CYA is low that there is no FC? I'm new at this whole chemistry thing and apparently I'm easily confused!

It is only now after reading some of the pool school section that I realized how important the CYA is!! I never really understood that before...
Typically (in past) with my pool up & running fine, I would take in a water sample as needed to the pool store, usually when I was buying a 4 pack of chlorine, & typically it was okay. I would also test @ home with test strips, adjusting the chlorine as needed.

HELP
Ok, if you are still with me - - I have no liquid chlorine for the pool, but I did find one gallon of bleach - Walmart Great Value brand - I'm going to go dump in the pool right now! Along with 6#dichlor shock!!!

& If I understand correctly the DICHLOR shock increases the CYA in the pool?? But if I also understood some of what I was reading - - the dichlor raises the CYA quickly but doesn't always show up on the test until a week after it's been put in the pool?

I won't be able to make it to the pool store until late afternoon.

I appreciate any help regarding the pool chemistry - - what I should be adding to get rid of my swamp, and how much? I tried to do the pool math...

Also, what exactly is the difference between the chlorine I am buying at the pool store versus Walmart's Great Value brand bleach? If I understand correctly Great Value has 8.25% chlorine, & the pool store chlorine has 12%?

$$$$ So wouldn't it be better to buy the 1gal chlorine from the pool store with a higher amount of available chlorine in it? Or is it just that it is more cost-effective to buy the Great Value brand because it is cheaper? Assuming that it is cheaper --I can't remember what I paid for Great Value bleach 1 gallon. But @poolstore I pay $14/4-1gal liq chlorine.

Thanks for any help! I will dump the 1 gallon great value bleach and right now, and wait for replies before I dump anymore dichlor shock.

 

[Texas Splash]

:calm: Okay, we can help get you back on track. But if I understand correctly, you still have no test kit correct? That's exactly where it all starts. You MUST have either a TF-100 (XL option) or Taylor K-2006C to test the required items and specific levels. That's the only way to fix this - and YOU CAN DO IT! Testing is NOT hard, you just need the kit. With those numbers, everything becomes very clear and yo know EXACTLY what to put in the water.

From there, it's all about regular bleach - like the generic stuff at Wal-Mart for $2.98 gallon (Great Value). But you need the test kit to know how much to put in. SO checkout the TF-100 lin below in my sig and let us know if you have any questions. We'd love to help you.

- - - Updated - - -

By the way, don't put anything else in your water other than regular bleach. No more bags of shock, tablets, or anything else. IT might be making things worse.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Here are the Cliffs Notes of Trouble Free Pool Care:
1) Go to TFTestkits.net and order the TF-100 XL test kit. Toss a Speed Stirrer in the order, it makes testing easier and faster. No one regrets buying them. Throw away any "Guess-Strips" you've been using. They're often inaccurate and not precise enough for your needs.
2) Stop going to the pool store. They're selling you overpriced chemicals and often potions that you don't even need!
3) Costco or Sam's Club has boxes of 3x121 ounce bottles of 8.25% bleach for about $9... start shopping around for liquid chlorine. Household bleach is fine. Until your test kit arrives only put in a gallon of bleach a day while you wait. Brush the pool daily too.
4) Test your pool water with your new kit and bring back the results to us and we'll help you clean that mess up.

 

[FP2]

UPDATE

I forgot that I actually do have 2 chlorine floaters in the pool with 5 chlorine tablet each - the big ones... Should I remove them? They've been in there since yesterday morning. Would it be better to have them since I have no other chlorine to put in the pool until this evening? I Put-in-Bay one gallon bleach just now. This afternoon, I will stop by Walmart and buy bleach!
Also, I will see if I can buy that tf-100 kit there. &some pool lube.
*thanks texasSplash & yippeeSkippy for your quick response above

 

[YippeeSkippy]

You can order the TF-100 from Pool Supplies, Spa Supplies and Parts or TFTestkits.net those are the only two sites and both have fast delivery. PoolSupplyWOrld is in CA even.

Water Testing - TFTestkit TF-100 Seven Test Kit - TF-100

Take those pucks out!! Pucks will add unwanted ingredients to the swamp (either CYA or Calcium) and you don't want that at this point. You ONLY want to add liquid bleach at this point. Other things will make clearing the swamp up all the harder.

 

[FP2]

Okay, thanks again for the replies, I will buy the test kit at your link thank you

I will buy the chlorine at Costco.
*Thanks for tip regarding brushing - - I was always advised by the pool store to never brush the pool when there is algae in it - - I wonder why they told me that?

My smarter than me kiddo of course just heard me and said that obviously that was because the pool store just want me to keep coming back and spend more money at their store, by not getting rid of the algae as fast LOL

- - - Updated - - -

I didn't realize the chlorine tablets were the pucks that were being referred to! Okay taking them out right now, thanks again !!!

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Brushing helps disrupt algae and any biofilm it is hiding behind and lets the chlorine get to it better. It also improves circulation in areas of the pool that need it.

Your son is a smart cookie!

 

[FP2]

Ok so I came home late afternoon, pool water clear in shallows, I could see bottom well enough, deep end still murky, I added more chlorine, & brushed pool- there went my clear water, but happy to report the algae on the sides was whitish vs green!...

After brushing, I've needed to empty skimmer& pump basket /20m- & backwash/add DE.

*which reminded me why poolstore said not to brush initially... I have to admit I can appreciate their reasons!!
Anyhow,
I had to turn off pump so I could make dinner & eat W/o dealing with clogged basket etc.
& now it's getting dark & mosquitoes are out... So pump off till am.

Considering my pool has been sitting for 1year, I'm feeling OK with progress.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

How do you think the dead algae are going to get in to the filter without circulation (via brushing)?? Are you able to vacuum to waste and bypass the filter?

If anything else has been added to the water it too can cause cloudiness until it gets filtered out. Calcium is a good example.