i went to pool store to have my water tested, he said i needed about 3 bags of salt. well when my salt generator said check salt, i went back and he gave me the salt strips to check my self. the salt level was around the 9 level on the strips. obviously way too high. i first drained the pool 1/3 filled, still too high, then 1/2 plus all of spa. reading around 6.5 now. so drained another 1/3 plus all of spa and reading is still around 5. is this normal? also each time i test my chemicals after the fill my ch and ph test are spot on. would not the emptying and filling with clean water dilute the chemicals?
salt level too high
- Thread starter dogsport
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!
Calcium is present in most water, so when you replace the water you add it back in. pH isn't a chemical but a measure of the acidity. It too depends on the nature of your fill water. You should have seen a significant change in your CYA when you drained and refilled.
Calcium is present in most water, so when you replace the water you add it back in. pH isn't a chemical but a measure of the acidity. It too depends on the nature of your fill water. You should have seen a significant change in your CYA when you drained and refilled.
great thanks. i am on my fourth drain, thinking of draining whole thing. i can't believe how much water it is taking to dilute the salt level.
dogsport said:
STOP DRAINING!!!!!! What is your salt level in PPM? What is your recommended salt level from the manufacturer of your SWG?
Which strips are you using? The strips should give you a reading in ppm (part per million). If you are using the AquaChek brand strips then there is a chart on the side of the bottle to tell you what the ppm reading is according to the number on the strip. The reason for that is each batch of strips is individually calibrated so you must use the chart on the bottle the strip came out of to get a correct reading.
Please post your salt level in ppm! Thanks!
Saying the reading is 9m 6.5, or 5 tells us nothing. (and certainly does not tell you what your salt level is!)
What is the recommended salt level for your brand of SWG (or which SWG do you have?) Salt levels vary from brand to brand.
You will also have to add CYA after draining and refilling since THIS chemical will get diluted. Many people (INCLUDING builders and pool store employees) do not realize how important the proper CYA level is with a SWG and the level is much higher than for a manually chlorinated pool, often around 80 ppm but never below 50 ppm! (80 is ususally a good starting point)
water-balance-tips-for-a-swg-t3663.html
I suggest you post a full set of test results and also suggest that if you do not have a GOOD test kit you get one. We really only recommend 2 test kits here, the Taylor K-2006 (NOT the K-2005 kit) or the TFTestkits TF100.
pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison
Both these kits use the FAS-DPD chlorine test and not the DPD chlorine test.
A good test kit is a very basic tool for keeping your pool water balanced and is the best investment you can make in pool care. The wrong test kit is nothing but a frustrating experience! A cheap test kit is not going to do the job. When you consider how much you spent on your pool you will realize that a good test kit is a very inexpensive investment.
I know this is a lot of information but just take it a piece at a time and ask any questions you might have. I suggest posting your new test results, including the salt in ppm as a first step, reading the pool school section of the forum (link in the upper right corner of page and in my signature) as your second step, and getting yourself a good test kit and testing your own water as a third step. We are here to help and answer any of your questions.
thanks for the shout out, i am usinng the aquachek strips. and i did forget to compare strip to chart for ppm reading. well according to strip i am at 4750ppm and according to my mfg. goldline i should be at 2400-3600 so i am still a bit high. now the water test kit you said i should get, can i get at any local pool supply? or only through this site (would like to get today and not wait for shippping)
Very very few pool stores actually stock the Taylor K-2006 test kit, or the Leslie's equivalent, and the TF100 is only available mail order. In my opinion, it is worth the couple of day wait to get a TF100.
When I was ready to turn on my SWG this spring, I checked the salt level at the generator and it showed 2300, which I though was an error because my strips were showing it at 3200. I added 2 bags of salt and brought the level up to about 2700 and the strips showed over 3600, my Aquapure wants to be at 3000-3500. I though the SWG was reporting low and I took it apart to clean it and it was already squeaky clean. I brought a sample to the ps and their reading matched the SWG. I purchased the K1766 salt test it it matches the SWG reading on the money. I added a few batches of salt and the readings have been very similar all the way up to 3500.
I like the K1766 better than the strips, but it seems most favor the strips to the 1766.
I like the K1766 better than the strips, but it seems most favor the strips to the 1766.
there is much more possibility for error with the K1766 than the strips which is why we recommend the strips. The K1766 is also more difficult to do but it is often faster than the strips. The biggest errors people make with strips are:
1. not letting them develop long enough (the bar at the top needs to turn dark just about all the way across!)
2. Getting them wet or leaving them uncapped in humidity (surefire way to ruin them)
They are both based on the same chemical reaction, the reaction of silver nitrate and chloride ions to form silver chloride. The strips are actually titrator strips that use capillary action. The test kit uses a chromate indicator to determine the endpoint and the titration is done differently than the other titrations we do. Instead of adding drops until one more drop produces no further color change, with this test you titrate only until you get a stable color change that does not disappear on swirling. This is what makes this test more error prone and why, for most people, the strips are an easier test to get consistent results with.
1. not letting them develop long enough (the bar at the top needs to turn dark just about all the way across!)
2. Getting them wet or leaving them uncapped in humidity (surefire way to ruin them)
They are both based on the same chemical reaction, the reaction of silver nitrate and chloride ions to form silver chloride. The strips are actually titrator strips that use capillary action. The test kit uses a chromate indicator to determine the endpoint and the titration is done differently than the other titrations we do. Instead of adding drops until one more drop produces no further color change, with this test you titrate only until you get a stable color change that does not disappear on swirling. This is what makes this test more error prone and why, for most people, the strips are an easier test to get consistent results with.
Thanks guys so until my new test kit comes here are my readings
Salt 2350
Fc .4
Ph 7.6
Al 90
This is after four partial drain refill, was surpised at reading so I checked my tap and except for salt was pretty close to pool level
Salt 2350
Fc .4
Ph 7.6
Al 90
This is after four partial drain refill, was surpised at reading so I checked my tap and except for salt was pretty close to pool level
Your salt is too low now (shoot for 3200-3400 with a Goldline unit) and I know your CYA is also going to be too low (unless it was way to high when you started) but you are going to have to test it to see where you are.
Alk and pH are fine where they are but you need to test your calcium and miight need to adjust that or your other water parameters to balance your water.
Alk and pH are fine where they are but you need to test your calcium and miight need to adjust that or your other water parameters to balance your water.
ok, so i got my salt levels down to 2850. salt cell still not working, cleaned and scraped all scale off, guess time for new one.also got my test kit, so here are my numbers below
fc=5.0
ph=7.0
ch=390
al=60
cya= below 30 just added 3lbs. will re-stest tommorow
i know my chlorine is high, but this will come down in about day and half.
what else should i do? to insure proper water balance. thanks
fc=5.0
ph=7.0
ch=390
al=60
cya= below 30 just added 3lbs. will re-stest tommorow
i know my chlorine is high, but this will come down in about day and half.
what else should i do? to insure proper water balance. thanks
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