So I opened my pool this year and found it had algae...I went through the ropes of shocking the heck out of my pool and now everything seems to be in range except my cya...no idea why it would be high. Anyway, my pool is holding free chlorine very well, contradicting the high cya readings I'm getting. My question is, I have a cloudy, very faint green tint to my water. I vacuum and change filter daily...so can anyone help to understand why my color is this? I have pics to post if need be, I have a 15000 gallon fiberglass pool, with brand new intelliflo pump. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Newbie here..hope this is the right spot
- Thread starter Maximus36wv
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!
What did you use when you were "shocking the heck" out of it?
I'm betting you still have a great deal of algae in the water. We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.
While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework assignment. Start with Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
Once you have your test kit you are ready to start clearing it up. We do not "shock" our pools, we follow the SLAM Process when there is a problem.
What did you use when you were "shocking the heck" out of it?
I'm betting you still have a great deal of algae in the water. We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.
While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework assignment. Start with Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
Once you have your test kit you are ready to start clearing it up. We do not "shock" our pools, we follow the SLAM Process when there is a problem.
I used liquid chlorine, I have a Taylor 2006 test kit and I brought it up to 30ppm and ran pump and filter for 8 hours...doesn't seem to be any algae left...here are pics.
Welcome to TFP!!!Why 30ppm? What is your CYA? There is a reason we recommend following the SLAM process, and I urge you to follow it to completion to ensure the algae is really gone.
My cya is over a hundred from using my kit...my pool store says it's 82...so I'm lost...I went to 30ppm because that is what the Taylor guide told me to do.
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Well, even if your CYA was just 100ppm, 30ppm for the FC was not high enough, plus you have to maintain it there. Take a look at the FC/CYA Chart and review the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process.
OK, so last weekend I did a partial drain and refill to try and get cya down, seemed to help a little but I can't completely drain my fiberglass pool so I was going to do a partial drain every few days until the numbers are in the normal range...but I can't get over how far apart my test results are from my pool store..they use the infrared testing method
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You have a good plan for lowering the CYA safely, just keep doing partial drains.
Pool store testing is horrendous and I trust any computerized testing less than the teenager spraying drops into a vial.
Trust your own testing. And order refills for the CYA and FAS-DPD reagents now before you run out (which you will before the SLAM is complete).
Pool store testing is horrendous and I trust any computerized testing less than the teenager spraying drops into a vial.
Trust your own testing. And order refills for the CYA and FAS-DPD reagents now before you run out (which you will before the SLAM is complete).
Please add your pool details to your signature as described HERE as it will help us help you.
You have to keep the FC elevated, although the level is unclear due to the CYA level being unknown.
What kind of filter do you have?
You have to keep the FC elevated, although the level is unclear due to the CYA level being unknown.
What kind of filter do you have?
OK update, I am on my 3 partial draining of fiberglass pool...water is a turquoise color but is getting clearer as new water is being added...cya reading still shows that it's a little over a 100 so hopefully this next refill helps.
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Don't equate “just a little over 100” to a number, the tube is not marked for such extrapolation. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water.
Pool water......Tap or distilled water.........Multiply result by
....1...................1................................2
So, if the diluted test shows your CYA at 70, you can figure the true CYA is in the area of 140. As a dilution test induces additional error in the test, this just give you an "idea" of the CYA level. In the past we may have recommended further dilutions but history has shown that even a 1:1 dilution introduces error into the computation. Further dilutions introduces errors that are just too high to make the test results usable.
Pool water......Tap or distilled water.........Multiply result by
....1...................1................................2
So, if the diluted test shows your CYA at 70, you can figure the true CYA is in the area of 140. As a dilution test induces additional error in the test, this just give you an "idea" of the CYA level. In the past we may have recommended further dilutions but history has shown that even a 1:1 dilution introduces error into the computation. Further dilutions introduces errors that are just too high to make the test results usable.
Thank you, I did a test this morning and I'm at 120 or so 3 more partial drains and fills should get me where I want to be.. pool calculator said I needed to drain 73% of pool and refill, so another 3 drains should be around there.
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I took over my pool with CYA in the range of 250, but was lucky that I never had to SLAM at those levels. The shock level to properly SLAM is 40% of the tested CYA level.
So right now your shock level is 48. Getting the CYA down to 80 reduces your shock level to 32.
As Jason said, you want to folow the directions on SLAMing your pool in the How To section of Pool School and follow that procedure completely to the end.
When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.
The biggest problem we see is folks who get one or two of the criteria and figure they are done. A little algae is still there and at it's first opportunity takes the pool over again.
So right now your shock level is 48. Getting the CYA down to 80 reduces your shock level to 32.
As Jason said, you want to folow the directions on SLAMing your pool in the How To section of Pool School and follow that procedure completely to the end.
- CC is 0.5 or lower;
- You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
- The water is clear.
When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.
The biggest problem we see is folks who get one or two of the criteria and figure they are done. A little algae is still there and at it's first opportunity takes the pool over again.
Well I want this cya down to normal range so that's my first priority. I have kept chlorine and ph up a little during the drains, so when I get this down, hopefully I will never have to do it again
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When you maintain your own pool you are definitely in charge of how much CYA goes in your pool. So, I predict that you will never have to do it again! 
Please edit your location in your profile to add your state or country. Climate is a very important factor when we help you care for your pool.
Please edit your location in your profile to add your state or country. Climate is a very important factor when we help you care for your pool.