Hanging a rectangular Intex Ultra Frame Pool directly from the pool deck

I'm a bit late to this thread, but I think you have a good idea, Jonas. I think it would work, and last quite a few years.

Since I don't have an SWG in my system (yet --considering it though!) I can't say anything about the metal frame rusting. Yes I know you are not using that, but that was one of your concerns with the original frame. So far, starting my 4th year with my pool partially buried, my posts appear to be doing good.

Rust or corrosion will still be a concern for any fasteners you will be using in this environment. What measures are you taking to mitigate this? I ask because this will be your most likely failure point for the pool. You know that if one fails, the added stress on the adjacent fasteners will likely cause them to fail quickly. This goes for the fasteners for the deck structure as well.

Good luck with this!
 
Simple enough to overcome by using stainless steel fasteners. They are available, just might have to search around a bit. You can get all size nuts, bolts,. screws, lag bolts, etc in stainless. Marinas or boar stores a good place to start, but any good bolt supply house can get them for you too.

I'm a bit late to this thread, but I think you have a good idea, Jonas. I think it would work, and last quite a few years.

Since I don't have an SWG in my system (yet --considering it though!) I can't say anything about the metal frame rusting. Yes I know you are not using that, but that was one of your concerns with the original frame. So far, starting my 4th year with my pool partially buried, my posts appear to be doing good.

Rust or corrosion will still be a concern for any fasteners you will be using in this environment. What measures are you taking to mitigate this? I ask because this will be your most likely failure point for the pool. You know that if one fails, the added stress on the adjacent fasteners will likely cause them to fail quickly. This goes for the fasteners for the deck structure as well.

Good luck with this!
 
Seeing the thread where the weight of the legs broke the pavers, I can't help but think the liner won't withstand being hung. I'm curious to see how this goes. (Wishing you luck, I don't want to see it fail.....)
 
A picture says more than a hundred words. If the legs are not in level they will break. To avoid extra stress on the legs its important to keep this pool at level. The illustration below shows how much water the legs have to lift. If the pavers are not in level with the ground the legs will lift more water, just 1-2 inch extra will more than double the weight.

The round pool have a smaller radius witch meens that the legs on that one can be thinner and further apart than the square one.
pool.jpg
 
Your diagram only looks at static gravity directly down. But gravity here pushes the mass of the water against the sides of the pool. It's that lateral force that is the problem. It is a larger problem when an old fat bald guy like me shows up and starts cannonballing to impress the Swedish bikini team. Then you add dynamic lateral forces to the existing static lateral forces. The pool uses the metal rim at the top as a cord to distribute these forces around the pool.
 
Wood is very cheap here. That kind of wooden pools are very popular here but for some reason overpriced. The price for walls and linear is 10k dollar, so I will try this 1k solution first and fall back on a wooden frame if it fails.

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Some of the lateral forces wold be transferred to the deck. But the pool needs to be attached in a manner similar to the original design so that it doesn't rip or tear when dynamic forces are applied. I'd be really really hesitant about getting rid of the continuous top metal cord. Continuous top cords are very important in these structures. Gunite pools have them -- the bond beam. Above ground pools have them -- the top rail. Tilt up buildings have them.
 
Some of the lateral forces wold be transferred to the deck. But the pool needs to be attached in a manner similar to the original design so that it doesn't rip or tear when dynamic forces are applied. I'd be really really hesitant about getting rid of the continuous top metal cord. Continuous top cords are very important in these structures. Gunite pools have them -- the bond beam. Above ground pools have them -- the top rail. Tilt up buildings have them.

The walls will not be allowed to move as much as the original design, so lateral forces will strain the pool more, very hard to say how much more. The liner can also move and will help distrubute forces. But just in case, i will not invite the Swedish bikini team when you visit! :D
 
It is a larger problem when an old fat bald guy like me shows up and starts cannonballing to impress the Swedish bikini team.

You have just ruined my imaginary image of you being a buff dude in a Speedo cleaning your pool every week. How dare you?!!! :grrrr:

:mrgreen:
 
I have started the excavation, but I hit rock so I'm waiting for the rock breaker.
c7d29f586c56b8273d3dc1f1221d8195.jpg


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Good luck busting through it. How deep are you going?
 

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