Hanging a rectangular Intex Ultra Frame Pool directly from the pool deck

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I have strong doubts you can replace the metal sections with wood. Its designed to distribute the forces around the pool and to the side buttresses and uses the weight of the water to dampen the dynamic forces of whales like me.
 
Jonas Åhgren said:
Try filling a plastic bag with water at home. It doesn't take much force to hold the walls up. As long as you just keep the side straight and don't try to lift the bag (pool) of course.

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Exactly, look at the Intex pools with the blow up rings. They make huge Intex pools with blow up rings. The replies on here are funny.
 
Round pools are in a sense self supporting, the mass of the water acts through the walls to hold them up and the walls have equal strength everywhere. Long straight walls are weaker in the center. Look at a cardboard box. The center of the long walls are its weakest point. But even tying a tight string around the top significantly strengthens the box and increases it capacity to hold water. It may deform a bit but it won't break.

The plastic bag example doesn't work here. In a plastic bag the mass of the water in a plastic bag is relativity small compared to the strength of the walls. The mass of the water in a pool is huge compared to the strength of the plastic enclosing it.
 
Jonas Åhgren said:
Hanging a rectangular Intex Ultra Frame Pool directly from the pool deck

Hello

Im from Sweden so sorry my bad english.

Im thinking of NOT using the metal frame that came with my pool, instead i will try hang the pool directly from the pool deck.

Because of the climate here we ned to put the studs a few feet into the ground when we build our deck, so i think its stronger than the metal frame that comes with the pool and will not sink into the ground.

I will use pressure treated wood 2x2" square studs instead of the horizontal metal bar, then it's just to bolt straight through the pool linear and let the bag " hang" in the wooden pool deck. The pool will hang on the wooden bar not the screws.

Personally I would prefer to avoid building a steel frame with rust time . Especially when the salt water chlorinator is used .

Hard to describe my hope illustration will helps.
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this will not work. the intex pool is a soft sided pool. it needs the frame pieces to help hold its integrity. otherwise it will just loose shape send buckle. not to mention the weight of the water pulling on your deck will cause significant damage.

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jblizzle said:
FYI, There are no metal walls on an Intex Ultra Frame pool. Just a top rail. And the pool is designed to bulge out and be contained by the liner only.
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that's where you're wrong. an intex ultraframe frame pool has a top rail and legs. both the round and rectangular do. and the legs know a rectangular one sit slightly underneath the pool. see picture. the vertical pieces are the legs. the frame is the upper railing that goes around the top on all 4 sides. I've owned both and know what you just said is not at all the case.
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All the legs do is support the top rail. They can take a compression load, but cannot take much of a shearing load. The legs contribute very little to holding in the side wall. Yes, the legs are buttressed on a rectangular pool and the buttress serves to push the top rail inward to counter the outward push of the water. The same effect can be achieved with the deck frame.
 
My only concern is the screw holes. I don't think the idea is mechanically wrong, just that the holes in the vinyl will tear due to the constant motion on them. Water is rarely static!

Any way you could integrate fasteners at only the same points as the original legs are now? Something like a countersunk headed screw with only the threads extending out those holes and bolted to the deck frame? That might eliminate the stress of the holes in the liner. I'd still also use wooden dowels, but how are you going to get them in the length you require...custom fab on a lathe?

Edited to add...
How about T nuts embedded in the dowels and bolts from the deck?
 
I don't believe the liner will tear. It's not worse then putting a skimmer trough it. It's more sensitive in the sidewalls close to the bottom where the forces tries to expand the liner in all directions. The T-bolt you talked about. does that look like this?
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Jonas Åhgren said:
I don't believe the liner will tear. It's not worse then putting a skimmer trough it. It's more sensitive in the sidewalls close to the bottom where the forces tries to expand the liner in all directions. The T-bolt you talked about. does that look like this?
2cbc84691ab67874f72f10685e74c781.jpg


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Its going to be much worse than a skimmer. Stress is force over area. Bolts have very little area, a skimmer opening has lots of area.

T nuts are threaded on the inside and have a wide flange that has some spikes on them. The flange would sit on the opposite side of the dowel and you thread the bolt through your deck into the T nuts. Tightening the bolt pulls the spikes into the dowel so you don't have to hold the nut. Furniture makers use them.

Those bolts may work, but driving them into the dowel might cause some splitting at the square.
 

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