Just Got My Pool - Some Q's....

[dannyboy]

Hey all.

I am finally in my new house and have got the pool up and running. The pump is a Hayward 1.5 with a Baldor motor running. It too most of the afternoon to work out how to get the water uphill to the pump to prime it but it now seems to be running. I am going to leave it running overnight to get the pump working all the time (previous owner mentioned I may have to help prime the pump several times on spring opening before it can prime itself?? - is this usual?)
I have not taken any water tests yet and wondered if it's even required before I start the conversion?
I have read the pool school for the convert and realize I have to keep 15PPM overnight for the Baq to be gone.

The pool is 38ft x 19ft - with 3 foot sloping down to 10ft with slopes on the sides. I used the bleach calc and got a volume of 25k using an average depth of 6ft - is this correct?

My main questions were -
Bleach calc suggests 6.5 gallons of bleach to get the first 15ppm. I then start testing the water to maintain this every couple of hours or so. How log will it take for the 6 gallons to circulate. What I mean is, if I pour 6.6 gallons into the returns, how long should I give it before performing a test to check chlorine levels?

The previous owner also left quite a bit of Bacquicil in the pool shed for me. What can I use from the following and when?
1 x granular baquaplus oxidizer increaser,
4 x sanitizer + algistat (liquid)
3 x algicide (liquid)
1 x sand filter cleaner (liquid)
1 box of filter aid (granular)
1 x oxidizer increaser

I heard you could not use any granular form of baquacil but I may be able to use the liquids?

Thanks for any help on this and I promise to take photos of the conversion. I am using the neighbors internet so am on a very slow connection but I will be a posting maniac come Thursday when the phone company connect me...

Cheers!!

 

[JasonLion]

It is important that the TA be reasonable (say between 70 and 140) and the PH be between 7.2 and 7.4 before you start. None of the other numbers are normally important.

You can retest the FC level and add more chlorine as frequently as once per hour.

Getting the pump to prime from completely dry is sometimes rather difficult. It depends on how your plumbing is setup.

It is important that you don't use any more of the sanitizer. Actually, I don't see anything on your list of chemicals that is going to be useful after the conversion, though it is only the sanitizer that will cause serious problems after the conversion.

25K gallon is a reasonable approximation.

 

[dannyboy]

Cheers Jason,

You mentioned in chdolfnz's post that

As you said, you don't add any CYA till right near the end.

When you do add CYA, I would target a level around 30-50 as usual and see how that works for you before experimenting with anything else.

In this post you mention

It is important that the TA be reasonable (say between 70 and 140) and the PH be between 7.2 and 7.4 before you start. None of the other numbers are normally important.

Which is it out of interest? I am off to Walmart to get my stash

Thanks for your help on this

Danny

 

[JasonLion]

I am not sure what your question is? You check and adjust the PH and TA before starting the conversion. None of the other numbers are especially important before the conversion. During the conversion you focus on FC and CC. You don't add CYA till very near the end of the conversion. Once the conversion is complete you want to test and adjust everything to recommended levels.

 

[dannyboy]

Thanks for the quick response Jason...