How to replace all light housings (niches) in concrete pool. Advice needed.

[kjones6160]

Hello,
I've ran into a significant, and unexpected, problem during my IG gunite pool renovation project and need some expert advise. While starting to replace the existing four (4) old Fiberstars fiber optic lights (circa 1993) in the pool walls with new Fiberstars Treo LED retrofit lights I was surprised to find that the original PB had glued a 1-1/2" to 1" reducer bushing directly to the back of lens housing fixture and used 1" flexible conduit all the way to the old Fiberstars illuminator. This left NO standard 1-1/2" PVC piping behind the wall fitting to install the new LED light. I need 3 inches depth of standard 1-1/2" pipe for the new light fixture but there's only about 1" of space before hitting the reducer bushing!

I'm now having to tear out the concrete around the old lens housings in the walls and cut them off behind at the point where the flex conduit is glued to the reducer bushing, hopefully glue on a new reducer bushing with a 3-4 inch long piece of pipe, and install a new lens housing. I hope there's enough "give" in the sandy soil here in Florida behind the pool shell to tamp the piping back far enough to set the new lens housing at the right depth prior to installing the new plaster finish.

This work must be done from inside the dry pool and I'm figuring that the contractor will need to bust holes through the concrete shell to gain access to the flex piping in order to cut off the reducer bushing then re-plumb and patch up the holes. I'm concerned about the pool shell leaking around these patches if there isn't a good bond between the old and new concrete. I shouldn't rely on the new Pebble-Tec finish to provide a watertight seal.

Any thoughts, suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Kevin

Here's some pics of my nightmare... the blue goo is the solvent welded reducer bushing directly onto the back of the lens housing. The 1" flex PVC can also be seen in the center of the bushing. This leaves no depth to install any light fixture.


- - - Updated - - -

Here's another pic of the new light bumping against the reducer bushing. Sorry about the pic being sideways but I can't get it to post in the correct orientation.

 

[Davidc21a]

Shouldn't be any issues with patching the holes as long as your contractor uses rebar, concrete to concrete does not stick. I've had to bust a bunch of holes in my pool currently being remodeled for new drains and led lights also

 

[gwegan]

It sounds like your contractor knows what he's doing. He's should be able to chip the penatrations larger. He can then use concrete to seal around the new conduit. No rebar. Make sure whatever he creates will accommodate not only the fiber star replacement lights but Jandy and Pentair nicheless lights as well. Somewhere on here there is a thread with that spec or just read the installation manuals

 

[atttech-2]

Ideally the pipe would be straight for at least 14 inches that will accommodate even the largest Jandy light should you ever decide to go bigger. I believe Gwegan is right, sounds like the contractor knows what he is doing, keep in mind the pool shell is not water tight (gunite is very pours given a little time water will go right through it). it provides the structural strength to keep the pool from moving/cracking. The plaster is what holds the water in so along as the patch can keep the conduit from moving and potentially causing a crack in the Pebble-Tec around the light you will be fine.

 

[BigEinAZ]

A properly placed gunite shell should be watertight, except where there are penetrations in the shell. Penetrations can be sealed using several different methods. There are a lot of industry produced articles on this subject.

 

[atttech-2]

I agree there are a lot of articles on the subject of gunite being watertight and perhaps as many about it not being water tight, from my own observation with my pool and a few relatives that have had them built and replastered I am in the not water tight camp. I would think that many would agree that water tight or not it's primary function is structural. I agree as long as the contractor does a good job and it is sealed properly the cold joint and plaster will keep the light socket from leaking. Don't get me wrong not trying to be argumentative just want the OP to understand that form the sound of it his contractor knows what he is doing and I think the work he is planing will work out well

 

[Chncdafied]

Sika flex in the hole first, then hydraulic cement, then plaster. Sika flex will give you a flexible watertight seal with incredible bonding strength. Hydraulic cement is rated to 4000psi and is 100% waterproof.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk