Need some advice of these numbers and how I should go about correcting them!

[CajunGuy]

I used my new Taylor K-2006 test kit. My setup is a 15k gal SWG gunite pool with spa overflow. Results are as followed:

FC 2.2
CC 0
pH 8.0
Alk 60
CH 160
CYA 35-40
Salt 3400

1) Should I bump the CYA up to 70? Is so, I will need to bump my FC up to around 3 to follow the recommended Chlorine/CYA chart, right?

2) Is 7.4 a good number to try and get my pH down to, or is that too low? My pool guy told me that I will always have my pH rising bc I have a SWG pool. He instructed me to pour the Muriatic Acid around the perimeter of my pool and said I can leave my pump on while doing this...is this correct? Also, what do I use to put the Muriatic Acid in, like a plastic measuring cup? Just wondering about it eating through whatever I put it in.

3) What is my best option when purchasing these chemicals for the best price to save money? It appears that buying concentrated bleach (8.25%), solid Muriatic Acid, and Cyanuric Acid would be my cheapest and best bet, right? Or should I just throw some Dichlor/Trichlor pucks in the skimmer since I need to do exactly what they will do to the water that is...increase FC, increase CYA, and decrease pH, right?

4) Just want to make sure I have this right. Anytime I'm adding powder directly to the pool, I need to backwash first, then turn the pump off and pour in the powder and let it dissolve before I turn the pump back on, right? If I'm adding liquids, I can just pour it in while leaving the pump on, right?

One last thing, I would just bump my chlorine production up on my SWG control box but it appears my cell needs to be replaced, so its only functioning at 10% right now (won't go any higher than that). Once I get the new cell it'll be easier to control my FC level I believe.

 

[Texas Splash]

Before you increase your CYA, just make sure your water is clear and you have no concerns about algae because if you had to do a "SLAM", then it would require more bleach. But if you're in the clear, then you have two choices it looks like:
1 - Increase CYA right away based on a SWG pool and augment the low production with bleach .. or ...
2 - Just leave the CYA where it is and treat your pool as a non-SWG pool until you get the SWG issues resolved.

Whichever way you go, just refer to the Chlorine/CYA Chart to match-up the proper FC level. Yes, lower pH right away to the mid 7s by pouring (measuring cup is fine) the acid slowly near a return jet with the pump running. Also make sure you increase FC to about 4-5 for now and try to never let it go below 3 ppm. Augment the SWG with regular liquid bleach from the grocery store. Generic is fine, but no splashless or scented bleach. Watch your low CH level as you never want the pool to start etching or losing calcium from the plaster because the water CH was low. As for powders, many of them can just be broadcast spread across the surface. No need to shut anything down. Please take a peek at the Recommended Chemicals link below in my sig and it will explain for each item.

 

[CajunGuy]

Before you increase your CYA, just make sure your water is clear and you have no concerns about algae because if you had to do a "SLAM", then it would require more bleach. But if you're in the clear, then you have two choices it looks like:
1 - Increase CYA right away based on a SWG pool and augment the low production with bleach .. or ...
2 - Just leave the CYA where it is and treat your pool as a non-SWG pool until you get the SWG issues resolved.

Whichever way you go, just refer to the Chlorine/CYA Chart to match-up the proper FC level. Yes, lower pH right away to the mid 7s by pouring (measuring cup is fine) the acid slowly near a return jet with the pump running. Also make sure you increase FC to about 4-5 for now and try to never let it go below 3 ppm. Augment the SWG with regular liquid bleach from the grocery store. Generic is fine, but no splashless or scented bleach. Watch your low CH level as you never want the pool to start etching or losing calcium from the plaster because the water CH was low. As for powders, many of them can just be broadcast spread across the surface. No need to shut anything down. Please take a peek at the Recommended Chemicals link below in my sig and it will explain for each item.

My pool is clear and free of algae. A little dirt and debris on the bottom, but I have a Nautilus Plus coming in today that should take care of that. My plan it to turn off the main drain and have it suction from only the skimmers while the Dolphin cleans the bottom.

If I go the route of #2 and just leave the CYA along for now, what do you mean by "treat your pool as a non-SWG pool"? Could I just leave the CYA alone and just add bleach every so often to supplement the SWG production until I get it fixed? I'm thinking it may best best to use the bleach since it will bump up my Calcium Hardness some since I have a plaster pool?

 

[duraleigh]

I'm thinking it may best best to use the bleach since it will bump up my Calcium Hardness some since I have a plaster pool?

Bleach and calcium hardness are unrelated.

 

[Texas Splash]

Yes, exactly right. You can leave the CYA alone for now and that way you'll use less bleach as noted on the chart (top portion). Just a little manual feeding each day and you should be fine. That salt will still be there when you get the SWG issue resolved. As for the CH, don't count on the bleach do assist with that. If your fill water has a low CH level, then Calcium hardness can be raised with calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate. That would be best. Hope that helps.

 

[CajunGuy]

Yes, exactly right. You can leave the CYA alone for now and that way you'll use less bleach as noted on the chart (top portion). Just a little manual feeding each day and you should be fine. That salt will still be there when you get the SWG issue resolved. As for the CH, don't count on the bleach do assist with that. If your fill water has a low CH level, then Calcium hardness can be raised with calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate. That would be best. Hope that helps.

I have a little calcium buildup around my waterfalls and very minimal on pool tile line. Will increasing the calcium hardness increase the calcium buildup, or is that most likely due to the previous owners not really keeping up with it and maybe letting the pH be too high for too long?

 

[Texas Splash]

Exactly, probably due to the management practices before. Hopefully you will be able to spot-treat any old build-ups with some direct acid treatments (i.e. spray bottle 4:1 mix, sometimes a little stronger) and a little scrubbing. Items below the water line can sometimes fade away with good management and/or perhaps keeping the CSI level slightly below negative on the Poolmath Calculator. It's not a fast process, but has helped some in the past. As long as your numbers are good now, you won't add to anything done in the past.