plumbing help after filter ... CPVC / PVC 1.5" joining new Jandy

peril

0
LifeTime Supporter
May 20, 2012
62
Allen, TX
Pool Size
12000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-9)
Hi All,

Getting ready to replace a 2 way 180 degree Jandy with a 3way to provide for a clean water pressure side leg to feed a pool cleaner. Have a couple of questions, and then wanted to make sure I'm going down the right path.

In a normal lots of space plumbing world - would be able to add a 1.5" tee after the filter and plumb in a 3/8" FIP bushing, but there is limited space before my return dives 90 into the ground. I'd like to have the FIP fitting aboveground so it doesn't connect under the soil line, and it stays clean.


current layout (the last tee is under the soil line so not very accessible for service, a nipple = male pvc to male pvc with almost no clearance)

triton filter - (2"FIP/1.5"female)(1.5" male nipple)(1.5" union)(1.5"male nipple)(jandy 2way valve)(1.5" nipple)(90 elbow)(1.5" nipple)(1.5" tee with 3/4 FIP for pool cleaner)

desired layout

triton filter (2"FIP/1.5"female)(1.5" male nipple)(1.5" union)(1.5"male nipple)(jandy3 way valve)(1.5" nipple)(90 elbow)(1.5" nipple)(1.5" union)


Couple of facts

1) Real driver for this is removing a chlorinator which I drilled into the current returns, it's a 3/8" hole in the pvc after the union and it's a weak spot (leaky) when not sealed
2) Since I've gone TFP method (Borax, Bleach, Baking soda) - I don't need a chlorinator, and would like to avoid having the area around the pool wet from these kinds of leaks.
3) Chlorinators are just more o rings to maintain, and stuff to leak / break under pressure.


The questions

1) Super lazy way - Should I consider trying to make a large BB sized epoxy repair in the PVC and see if it holds up? (This just seems like asking for trouble on the pressure side of the pump)
2) The PVC cement to use for the CPVC - PVC connections seems to be ... "Medium orange PVC cement", I also have regular primer / PVC cement, but don't know if that works for CPVC
3) Any problem with using the 3way as a feed leg, and any ideas on the best way to get a 3/4 FIP female on the leg ( thinking 1.5" nipple, 90 4-5 inches and then a 3/4" bushing.)

Will post pictures tonight of my layout, really appreciate you reading, and asking questions.

-Adrian
 
Pictures might help ...

1) Doubt it would work.
2) You need a universal cement for the PVC/CPVC ... it also usually includes ABS. Just check the label to ensure CPVC is listed.
3) Not really sure what you are asking.
 
Pix attached
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So the top pic shows the plumbing in all it's glory - the chlorinator used to sit between the 1.5" pvc pipe with 3/8" hole in pic 2 and the 2" pvc hole with 3/8" hole in pic 3. I've cut the 2inch out - that wasnt too scary, and is a straightforward replumb, what i want to do is figure out the best way to plumb in that 3/4 FIP fitting which was underground before for the pool cleaner booster pump.

My thoughts are I put a 1.5 inch nipple into the 3way valve and either put in a 3/4 inch bushing or run a 90 and add a couple of inches and then add the bushing to that - (IMO) think having the bushing horizontal is a better configuration for wintertime so the face of the bushing doesn't freeze up.

Open to other ideas in case there are other opinions.

As you can see from the length of the run - if I want to add in a T with the FIP - there isn't room in the new run to fit a T - so that's why I went with the 3way Jandy.

--Adrain
 
You can unscrew and turn the upper plate so the OFF is pointing to the waste port. I would also adjust the pins so you can not close off the port from the filter.
Will do. I didn't adjust the port yet. Thanks for looking.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

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