CMP PowerClean Chlorinator or Pentair Rainbow 320

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J

jokaankit

0
Jun 9, 2015
55
NY
Hi guys and gals, I sat down and considered my chlorination options. I think I want to stick to the traditional method that has worked well for me: use a chlorinator and add bleach every night. The cost for chlorination compared to a swg is about half using the traditional method, and though it is more labor intensive, time consuming, and unforgiving, it is also less complex.

The two products I'm considering:
Pentair Rainbow
Amazon.com : Pentair R171096 Rainbow 320 Automatic In-Line Chlorine/Bromine Feeder For Pool And Spa : Swimming Pool Chemicals And Supplies : Patio, Lawn Garden

CMP
Custom Molded Products POWERclean ULTRA In-Line Chlorinator w/ Clear Glass Lid - 25280-100-000 - INYOPools.com

Manual
http://www.c-m-p.com/cmp/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/25280-100400-PowerClean-Ultra-Chlorinator-Instructions1.pdf

Which will work best for a VSP operating at low speeds. I've noticed complaints on the Pentair in low speeds. The CMP has it's issues regarding flow rate control. Both seem to clog with residue from tabs. Somehow I never experienced a clog or tight knob from a 15 year old hayward, the lid is a different story. Your input is greatly appreciated.
 
I have a basic kit, I will be getting the TF100 kit this year once I have the liner and add some water.

The reviews on amazon indicated the low speed issues. I know little about water flow designs in chlorinators. The rainbow 320 uses a hose while the cmp is all internal.

The cmp has reviews through retailers, 30% of reviews indicating a problem with the knob getting stuck. I don't see how that can't be fixed or turned with pliers. I guess most are going for salt systems these days. There is just a lot I don't know about salt systems. I think I would run into similar flow issues using a VSP.
 
I have the Rainbow 320 and have used it since the pool was installed 8 months ago (kept the pool open all winter). It has worked flawlessly, but I'm installing a chlorine injector this week since my CYA has risen to 70ish in just 8 months. I rum my pump on low 12 hrs/day and only run on high 2 hrs/day while cleaner is running. It never failed to keep my chlorine level at my desired levels. Just don't want to get my CYA any higher so it will be emptied and shut down and only used when CYA gets low from normal water replacement.
 
I would disagree that what you are proposing to do is less complex than a SWG. Once you include CYA monitoring and required water replacement. Although in new York maybe you get enough rain to avoid some of the problems.
 
jblizzle said:
I would disagree that what you are proposing to do is less complex than a SWG. Once you include CYA monitoring and required water replacement. Although in new York maybe you get enough rain to avoid some of the problems.
Click to expand...

Hi thanks for the replies everyone. Well I was lucky enough to have a chat with a cmp cs rep that talked to me about the chlorinators. It was mentioned that most chlorinators don't work well at low flow rates. CMP is redisgning a part that improves chlorination low flow application (few months before it's released), that seems to be a common complaint. I never experienced an issue with the range the hayward provided. I believe I ended up increasing the rpm to a min. of 1400 rpm which would dissolve a full hayward chlorinator in 7 days on the middle setting.

jblizzle, I do in fact get enough rain water to dilute the cya to mantain a good range of cya. Keep in mind I backwash once a month or so during the 4-5 month pool season. I'm considering a salt system but I'm unsure of the work involved in cleaning the cells, and adding salt is much different than adding bleach daily and supplementing with trichlor once a week.
 
First, there may be no reason to backwash monthly. We recommend backwashing when the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure.

If you keep the chemistry in line (mostly pH and CH), then you would likely never have to clean the SWG cell. Adding a few dollars of salt every couple months if your water gets diluted sounds easier to me. Although with a SWG, you may run into the need to more closely monitor and lower the pH.

If you get enough rain and using the tablets with bleach works for you, then why change what is working? ;)
 
jblizzle said:
First, there may be no reason to backwash monthly. We recommend backwashing when the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure.

If you keep the chemistry in line (mostly pH and CH), then you would likely never have to clean the SWG cell. Adding a few dollars of salt every couple months if your water gets diluted sounds easier to me. Although with a SWG, you may run into the need to more closely monitor and lower the pH.

If you get enough rain and using the tablets with bleach works for you, then why change what is working? ;)
Click to expand...
You're right I forgot to mention my reason for changing. When running at high speeds I get a leak from the chlorinator lid. If I tighten it a lot, no leaks. I went through 2 gasket and spent 2 hours on this issue last year. Once I open it to add tablets I cant get the lid on leak free. I've broken that lid so bad its held together by glue. I stopped using tabs towards the end of the season. If my cya dropped very low I used a couple of floaters. Also the plastic screw part of the union is about to give up on the chlorinator.

When calculating the cost of a SI30 swg I figured 10 bags every season. Extra $20 of acid. Is that a wrong assumption? Also will it produce chlorine at 1400 rpm or should a match it to the schedule of my pump.

I originally thought I had to measure salinity regularly but that doesn't seem to be the case as these units do that for you. These injectors and liquidators cost more than swg and chlorinators so I didn't even consider them. I've got a small pool, that doesn't get whole lot of use or sun.

- - - Updated - - -

I was under the impression that cya testing is a common thing with salt systems as well.
 
Bump. I have to make my decision soon. Most feel strongly about swg, but I haven't seen any estimates on costs, if it will work with low speed pumps, and if these budget systems are reliable.

I'm being offered a free install, due to the other work being done for me.
 
I need 1-2 bags of salt a season, my pool is bigger, but I get a lot less rain.

The testing requirements are basically the same regardless of the method of chlorination.

You will have to dial in the lowest speed your pump has to run for the SWG to work ... might not be as low at 1400 or it might work even lower.

Previous cost analysis that has been done usually ends up with the bleach vs. SWG being about the same in the long run. You just pay more upfront for the SWG.
 

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so a pool my size you recommend the si30? Is that my best option I think I saw it for $620.

It's incredible they have all these solutions and methods for chlorination and I haven't found anything I like. The winters are rough on equipment, and winterizing is already an involved long process. I've read some complaints about melted circupool units and failed electronics. It still feels like a compromise w/ either generator and chlorinator. With the swg, I can at least look forward to less work and consistent chlorine. My rough eatimates for the 3 years I will be living here show a 40-50% cost difference between the two options.
 
I got the si-30. I hope it's easy to setup and use. I have to power it continuously and rely on the flow meter. I saw a couple posts about load sensing relays on the forum but it seems to involved for me. I may be able to put the swg on a timer if I move the wires around.
 
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