High salt no chlorine what to do

May 31, 2014
24
Houston
Accidentally put an extra bag of salt in the other day. Didn't think anything of it. Went out Hayward t-15 chlorine generator is off. Salt display says 3800ppm. Turned the unit off. Will come back on and start generating then turn back off after a few seconds.

Right now I am diluting the pool down. I would assume even in super chlorine mode it will take several days to get back up to a couple ppm. Cya levels are most likely 0 at this point since I haven't added any since last season.

Anything else I should do at this point? Assuming I can just slowly get the chlorine back up, adjust for cya and then be ready to swim?

Thanks
 
With the switch in the off position, scroll through the diagnostics by pushing the button. I don't think that it's high salt related.

What is the water temperature?

How much salt was added and was the cell off?

How old is the system?
 
In the order that they appear

3800ppm
79 temp
18.7
0.00
51p
-0
Al-0
R1.58
T-15

Does that help?

- - - Updated - - -

4 bags were added. Don't remember if pool was running or not.

- - - Updated - - -

System is approx 4 years old I believe
 
When not generating, the voltage should be about 30 to 32 volts. Yours is showing 18.7. When it's low like that, it's almost always a bad thermistor. Round black disc in the upper right. Part number AS32 2R025. Can you solder?
 
The off voltage being low is enough to diagnose the problem.

Take a look at the thermistor to see if it's cracked. Turn off power and remove the front plate. Quarter sized black disc.
 
The off voltage being low is enough to diagnose the problem.

Take a look at the thermistor to see if it's cracked. Turn off power and remove the front plate. Quarter sized black disc.

Thanks, sure enough popped the cover off and theres a split line crack in the black disc. Its not busted open but if I look close theres a hairline there.
 

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If you just want to replace the board, the part number is GLX-PCB-RITE. It's cheaper to solder in the new thermistor (current limiter) but some people would rather not do that.

Also, if your unit is still under warranty, you might be able to get it covered.
 
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